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New Room And First Grow With Under Current!

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New Room And First Grow With Under Current!

yukon369 122 Replies 22,100 Views
Page 3 of 7 · Replies 41–60 of 123
#43
DapperDon said:
You HAVE to put a ball valve inline before the filter so that you can shut the water off to check and clean that filter every other day once you are into flower. I don't veg in my UC and use it only for flowering.
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Okay will do! Thanks for the advice.
 
#45
Baby root porn after 4 days. lol


IMG 2039
 
#46
DapperDon said:
I agree with the hard PVC but I strongly suggest keeping the inline filter unless you are balling so hard that you can drop for a new mag pump whenever.
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Like you input, i went with hard PVC the first time around and it worked fine,.....this time i went with the heavy duty clear structural tubing, just as solid but you can see if anything is actually there in the tube. the 2 clear tubes come off the return manifold and come to a T, then one clear tube goes in to the PVC feed to the Mag Pump ( the best thing is that if i see something i can do something proactive and checking really just takes a glance).
 
#47
DapperDon said:
You HAVE to put a ball valve inline before the filter so that you can shut the water off to check and clean that filter every other day once you are into flower. I don't veg in my UC and use it only for flowering.
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What do you do for veg? set up? I ask because I'm planning a veg room and need ideas?
 
#49
yukon369 said:
What do you do for veg? set up? I ask because I'm planning a veg room and need ideas?
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I do a 2 part veg. For me, it seems impractical to use the UC system when your new plants don't have the root systems they need for the system to be effective. So many people struggle with trying to veg correctly in this system and it is just for that reason. It doesn't matter if it is from seed or not, I always clone. So going from there, once they have been in the cloner and the roots are established (a week to 10 days) I put them in an Ebb & Flo system with low t5 lighting. Then in about 7-10 days after the roots have gained enough size, I place them into my 2nd part of my veg system. Which is to remove the t5, I bump the soup up a bit more and introduce them to the Gavita 750. I start on 400 and for the next 10-15 days I will gradually step up the wattage on the lights. At that time, I will take the best 4 out of the bunch and THEN place them in my UC with a halo top feed ring and the lights @600 for at least a week. After that I will remove the ring, set up my bondage cages and keep training and weaving in veg for at least another 3-5 weeks and then I flip them to flower. I only have a 4 banger system so I grow bigger plants. To me, I find that it gives the plants a very robust root system which is needed for a successful UC run.
 
#50
DapperDon said:
I do a 2 part veg. For me, it seems impractical to use the UC system when your new plants don't have the root systems they need for the system to be effective. So many people struggle with trying to veg correctly in this system and it is just for that reason. It doesn't matter if it is from seed or not, I always clone. So going from there, once they have been in the cloner and the roots are established (a week to 10 days) I put them in an Ebb & Flo system with low t5 lighting. Then in about 7-10 days after the roots have gained enough size, I place them into my 2nd part of my veg system. Which is to remove the t5, I bump the soup up a bit more and introduce them to the Gavita 750. I start on 400 and for the next 10-15 days I will gradually step up the wattage on the lights. At that time, I will take the best 4 out of the bunch and THEN place them in my UC with a halo top feed ring and the lights @600 for at least a week. After that I will remove the ring, set up my bondage cages and keep training and weaving in veg for at least another 3-5 weeks and then I flip them to flower. I only have a 4 banger system so I grow bigger plants. To me, I find that it gives the plants a very robust root system which is needed for a successful UC run.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input!! That sound like the right way to do it to me!!! I'm thinking I will do something similar. So on another note I'm kind of having a hard time getting these ladies going. This time around I'm going to be using my tap water and it's 90 ppm I'm using CS nutrients. I initially PHed the water Down to 5.5 and put the total PPM in the system to 140 veg a&b. As the first week went by the pH climbed all the way to 6.1 but the PPM's also climbed to 180. So I called CC and they said to take half the water out and replace it with tap water to get to PPM's down. So I did that. The girls are little yellowish. I'm at week tw0 and Now my PPM's are at 150. So I was wondering if you might have any input?? Also when you do a nutrient change out do you replace the water with pH water or do you pH down after you get the water in? I have a Blue lab PH controller that I have been using. My water out of the tap is around 7.5. Also during my first week I didn't have a sufficient humidifier now I've got the humidity up in the 60s now. I also have ucroots in. Do you think I just started to hot with the nutes to begin with?
 
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#51
yukon369 said:
Thanks for the input!! That sound like the right way to do it to me!!! I'm thinking I will do something similar. So on another note I'm kind of having a hard time getting these ladies going. This time around I'm going to be using my tap water and it's 90 ppm I'm using CS nutrients. I initially PHed the water Down to 5.5 and put the total PPM in the system to 140 veg a&b. As the first week went by the pH climbed all the way to 6.1 but the PPM's also climbed to 180. So I called CC and they said to take half the water out and replace it with tap water to get to PPM's down. So I did that. The girls are little yellowish. I'm at week tw0 and Now my PPM's are at 150. So I was wondering if you might have any input?? Also when you do a nutrient change out do you replace the water with pH water or do you pH down after you get the water in? I have a Blue lab PH controller that I have been using. My water out of the tap is around 7.5. Also during my first week I didn't have a sufficient humidifier now I've got the humidity up in the 60s now. I also have ucroots in. Do you think I just started to hot with the nutes to begin with?
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Well not to but in and i want to hear @DapperDon 's answer but yes i think you were too hot and it does stunt the plants if you are,....


and while i'm here i like @DapperDon 's approach,........@yukon369 are you firmilar with the "bubble table" used by @Amber and others? I just used this for the first time to get the roots to size and that thing works,...allows me to put on longer bulky roots and continue put on some size while still in my vegging space.
 
#52
UCMETOO said:
Well not to but in and i want to hear @DapperDon 's answer but yes i think you were too hot and it does stunt the plants if you are,....


and while i'm here i like @DapperDon 's approach,........@yukon369 are you firmilar with the "bubble table" used by @Amber and others? I just used this for the first time to get the roots to size and that thing works,...allows me to put on longer bulky roots and continue put on some size while still in my vegging space.
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I'm not familiar with the bubble table? I will do some research and try and find out more about it. How long do you veg in the bundle table? Yeah I think I was a little hot with the nutes. Thanks for the information @ UCMETOO.
 
#53
yukon369 said:
Thanks for the input!! That sound like the right way to do it to me!!! I'm thinking I will do something similar. So on another note I'm kind of having a hard time getting these ladies going. This time around I'm going to be using my tap water and it's 90 ppm I'm using CS nutrients. I initially PHed the water Down to 5.5 and put the total PPM in the system to 140 veg a&b. As the first week went by the pH climbed all the way to 6.1 but the PPM's also climbed to 180. So I called CC and they said to take half the water out and replace it with tap water to get to PPM's down. So I did that. The girls are little yellowish. I'm at week tw0 and Now my PPM's are at 150. So I was wondering if you might have any input?? Also when you do a nutrient change out do you replace the water with pH water or do you pH down after you get the water in? I have a Blue lab PH controller that I have been using. My water out of the tap is around 7.5. Also during my first week I didn't have a sufficient humidifier now I've got the humidity up in the 60s now. I also have ucroots in. Do you think I just started to hot with the nutes to begin with?
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What is your pH after adding nutes? I have similar tap numbers 90 PPM and 7.4 pH but I adjust pH after I first add UC roots , mix that in for at least 10 minutes, then I add Calmag ( If nec.) , then I add my veg A and veg B and bring to my target PPM. CS nutes drop the pH of my tap water.
My pH is ~ 6.4 when I' m done adding nutes and I pH down from there.
 
#54
yukon369 said:
I'm not familiar with the bubble table? I will do some research and try and find out more about it. How long do you veg in the bundle table? Yeah I think I was a little hot with the nutes. Thanks for the information @ UCMETOO.
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Most people find they have to be pretty quick about it as the roots grow long quickly and can tangle and be a pain ( a bigger table with room to separate the wold fix that) most people go about two weeks in one of those but i have gone as long as a month with great results. Its fantastic to put them into the UC with long roots (13-20 inches on some of them) they take to growing right away with no stall.....
 
#55
DapperDon said:
I do a 2 part veg. For me, it seems impractical to use the UC system when your new plants don't have the root systems they need for the system to be effective. So many people struggle with trying to veg correctly in this system and it is just for that reason. It doesn't matter if it is from seed or not, I always clone. So going from there, once they have been in the cloner and the roots are established (a week to 10 days) I put them in an Ebb & Flo system with low t5 lighting. Then in about 7-10 days after the roots have gained enough size, I place them into my 2nd part of my veg system. Which is to remove the t5, I bump the soup up a bit more and introduce them to the Gavita 750. I start on 400 and for the next 10-15 days I will gradually step up the wattage on the lights. At that time, I will take the best 4 out of the bunch and THEN place them in my UC with a halo top feed ring and the lights @600 for at least a week. After that I will remove the ring, set up my bondage cages and keep training and weaving in veg for at least another 3-5 weeks and then I flip them to flower. I only have a 4 banger system so I grow bigger plants. To me, I find that it gives the plants a very robust root system which is needed for a successful UC run.
Click to expand...

I think you would like my modified uc system. Mines on a smaller scale built from 5 gal buckets but it is all undercurrent down low where it counts but up top I have drip fed buckets with clay balls. This way I can veg right there in system.
 
#56
yukon369 said:
Thanks for the input!! That sound like the right way to do it to me!!! I'm thinking I will do something similar. So on another note I'm kind of having a hard time getting these ladies going. This time around I'm going to be using my tap water and it's 90 ppm I'm using CS nutrients. I initially PHed the water Down to 5.5 and put the total PPM in the system to 140 veg a&b. As the first week went by the pH climbed all the way to 6.1 but the PPM's also climbed to 180. So I called CC and they said to take half the water out and replace it with tap water to get to PPM's down. So I did that. The girls are little yellowish. I'm at week tw0 and Now my PPM's are at 150. So I was wondering if you might have any input?? Also when you do a nutrient change out do you replace the water with pH water or do you pH down after you get the water in? I have a Blue lab PH controller that I have been using. My water out of the tap is around 7.5. Also during my first week I didn't have a sufficient humidifier now I've got the humidity up in the 60s now. I also have ucroots in. Do you think I just started to hot with the nutes to begin with?
Click to expand...
@yukon369 Are you still yellowing? Are you top feeding? I was taught to feed along the edge a couple times a day to get those roots extended down through net pod. They could be thirsty.
 
#57
yukon369 said:
Thanks for the input!! That sound like the right way to do it to me!!! I'm thinking I will do something similar. So on another note I'm kind of having a hard time getting these ladies going. This time around I'm going to be using my tap water and it's 90 ppm I'm using CS nutrients. I initially PHed the water Down to 5.5 and put the total PPM in the system to 140 veg a&b. As the first week went by the pH climbed all the way to 6.1 but the PPM's also climbed to 180. So I called CC and they said to take half the water out and replace it with tap water to get to PPM's down. So I did that. The girls are little yellowish. I'm at week tw0 and Now my PPM's are at 150. So I was wondering if you might have any input?? Also when you do a nutrient change out do you replace the water with pH water or do you pH down after you get the water in? I have a Blue lab PH controller that I have been using. My water out of the tap is around 7.5. Also during my first week I didn't have a sufficient humidifier now I've got the humidity up in the 60s now. I also have ucroots in. Do you think I just started to hot with the nutes to begin with?
Click to expand...

It sounds like your soup was too hot and started to cause lockout. As a rule I follow, I always use RO water so I know exactly where "zero" is. It gets a little tougher to troubleshoot when tap water is involved as everyones is different. RO is RO is RO all across the board. Tap water is the bane of RDWC growing and will always have problems with consistency in your grow. 5.5 to 6.1 is a normal PH swing for any UC system so that's normal. However your plants are using the nutrients in the water. pH going up is a good thing. Bump up those ppms by 100-200 PPM per day and you should start to see your pH level off. If it starts trending the other way, going down, then your ppms are too high. The plants would be consuming water faster than the nutrients. When I dump my soup I leave NOTHING in the system. I mean nothing. I get in there with a shop vac and get all the old soup out. But yes, I PH/CalMag treat my water and give it sufficient time to degass before I add my nutes then balance it out again. I have been doing something new lately and I am not sure how it will turn out but I will rinse the root masses with ph's water and fill the system before I place them back in the buckets. I want to see if removing the residual salts in the root mass will help the plants with nutrient uptake.
 
#58
DapperDon said:
It sounds like your soup was too hot and started to cause lockout. As a rule I follow, I always use RO water so I know exactly where "zero" is. It gets a little tougher to troubleshoot when tap water is involved as everyones is different. RO is RO is RO all across the board. Tap water is the bane of RDWC growing and will always have problems with consistency in your grow. 5.5 to 6.1 is a normal PH swing for any UC system so that's normal. However your plants are using the nutrients in the water. pH going up is a good thing. Bump up those ppms by 100-200 PPM per day and you should start to see your pH level off. If it starts trending the other way, going down, then your ppms are too high. The plants would be consuming water faster than the nutrients. When I dump my soup I leave NOTHING in the system. I mean nothing. I get in there with a shop vac and get all the old soup out. But yes, I PH/CalMag treat my water and give it sufficient time to degass before I add my nutes then balance it out again. I have been doing something new lately and I am not sure how it will turn out but I will rinse the root masses with ph's water and fill the system before I place them back in the buckets. I want to see if removing the residual salts in the root mass will help the plants with nutrient uptake.
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That is the best info you can drop,...i'm so used to watching for the drop in EC and H2o to corespond to each other i for get to tell others.
That new step is pretty cool,..@DapperDon i used to do the same thing back in the day, but used a little h202 as my cleaner (that was before anyone had a strategy to beat the 'slime' for sure) so i was always trying to hedge my bet.
 
#60
yukon369 said:
It feels great to get things up in running!!! Oh yeah the ladies enjoy some nice surround sound!!!haha Cuts Are!
4 Chem Dawg
3 San Fernando
2 Mango
2 Nepal
3 Cenex
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Are these all similar in flower time and stretch ?
Surround sound, LOL My last Chem Dawg run the girls had to listen to a station called b101. It's all oldies.But Goodies It was the only station that came in the room . They didn't mind. They did fine. Chem Dawg can be pushed. At least Chem Dawg 91 can.
 
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