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Post Your UC Problems Here!

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Post Your UC Problems Here!

jimmyhoffa59 333 Replies 55,734 Views
Page 13 of 17 · Replies 241–260 of 334
#241
Got a new EZ Clone 30... Stealth RO100, New black airlines, new diffusers for the buckets, new netpots, new combo meter...Still need to get a good humidifier because with tent closed and both lights on.. RH is still below 20%.. can barely get it up to like 30% +/- 5% with the Vicks humidifier; gotta get a nice one for like a house with the humidistat control on the unit. Working it out.. little by little going to chip away my problems and start fresh.
 
#243
Chris/Groovy, I like the way you do business, taking good care of your customers.
That tidbit about the grey area between where the hydroclay is wet from humidty, but not in contact with the solution is IMHO a very very important insight to take into consideration when people are running water culture.

Lets say someone wants to use down under HF, and then at a later wants to add a beneficials how long is the HF still active/killing stuff 5, days, 2 weeks.?
thanks bud
 
#245
Lets say someone wants to use down under HF, and then at a later wants to add a beneficials how long is the HF still active/killing stuff 5, days, 2 weeks.?

Good question Medi.
 
#246
UCMENOW said:
Lets say someone wants to use down under HF, and then at a later wants to add a beneficials how long is the HF still active/killing stuff 5, days, 2 weeks.?

Good question Medi.
Click to expand...
Word! Love all the info... I'd also love to swing by and check out the HF in person... Maybe grab a small sample just in case... :cool
 
#247
I see that doubleds used h202 sometimes,


hey chris, should we turn off our air stones when adding the product, and for how long?
I read this here.

How to use Hydro-Fungicide:
We see Hydro-Fungicide as a root therapy for hydroponics. It cleans and conditions the roots of your plants. Now we all know that roots are the foundations of healthy plants and without healthy roots the plants themselves are not healthy. Like a human, if you are healthy your immune system wards off disease, so too healthy plants are able to ward off diseases which makes them last longer and provide better crops.
The feeder roots enable your plants to absorb oxygen, water and of course nutrient at an accelerated rate.
Firstly you should ensure your tank is free of fungi and bacteria in order to do this you should saturate with an added Hydro-Fungicide dose of 2ml per litre of nutrient, It should not take more than a week to 10 days before you see the amazing results.
Depending on how bad your tank is, this may have to be done for more than a week.
Do not use more than the recommended dosage as this may have a traumatic effect on your plants.
Then for preventative maintenance of your tank dose your tank once a week with just 1ml per 2Litres nutrient. If you add water you should also add 1ml per 2litres of water added. Its as simple as that. If you think this is costly, well the additional and healthier crops received as a result, will much more than cover this cost.

Things you should note:
1. Do not use Hydro-Fungicide if you are trying to promote beneficial bacteria
growth.
2. Hydro-Fungicide may cause your solution to foam a little, this will disappear
over time and will cause no harm to your plants
3. All oxygenation methods should be switched off while dosing tanks
4. Always test for plant sensitivity, whilst we have not had any adverse effects, if
you are going to use on a large scale, we feel it is always better to be safe than
sorry.
5. Never use Hydro-fungicide in conjunction with any other treatments
stimulants or preventatives. Hydro-fungicide is a stand alone treatment and if
used in conjunction with other treatments its effects may be neutralized and
the same possibility complies to the other treatments. It may also result in an
adverse effect.
6. Store Hydro-fungicide in a dark cool place.
7. You do not need to stop treatment prior to harvesting Hydro-Fungicide has no
systemic qualities.
8. Keep out of the reach of children. This rule should apply to all products.

and my other question, just in case you missed it:)
Lets say someone wants to use down under HF, and then at a later wants to add a beneficials how long is the HF still active/killing stuff 5, days, 2 weeks.?


Thanks again!!!
 
#248
GroovyHydro said:
Got the PM with the address Thanks, got your quart going out 2moro!
Click to expand...

Groovy People..


Can you please outline what your thoughts on UC and how dosage of your product should work in conjunction with it and what root area nutes should be used. Lets use Sensi Grow as an example. Not including bloomboosters, what can we dump in our tanks, enzymes, h2o2, etc.

Thanks in advance.

Lost
 
#249
All the information you need is in the UC threads.. just read a bunch of the grows.. tons of info.
 
#250
You know I was going through some older pictures on my computer and found some of these good ones of my grow I did in a homemade Aeroponics simple system I built for like a hundred bucks. 12 site in just standard deep storage containers in net pots. 4x4 tent and 1K aircooled light. No co2, no ph, ppm meter. I was seeing how we were talking about house and garden and the nonsense we been having with it in UC including myself and am switching to DM.. but a bit ago in this thread someone was saying maybe it was my water.. well this grow was done with tap same house, and FULL H&G.. so I have no fucking clue what happened in the UC. I had two big air stones at the bottom of the tubs.. and just standard pvc with sprayers.. simplest shit I ever built.

After looking at THESE roots and success with Aero I wonder what the correllation is with having trouble with H&G in UC? I went from green thumb to shit thumb...But I am stoked about starting over in the UC.. but shit that aero grew FAST!

I grew from seed and had about half males.. and one died mysteriously in flower..so I got an ounce and a half from each one that was left. Nothing special but damn they looked healthy.. I NEVER checked my ph and just did nutes off the HG chart. I dunno I just wanted to share.

http://i111.invalid.com/albums/n145/jimmyhoffa59/Grow/CIMG0070.jpg
http://i111.invalid.com/albums/n145/jimmyhoffa59/Grow/CIMG0045.jpg
http://i111.invalid.com/albums/n145/jimmyhoffa59/Grow/CIMG0039.jpg
http://i111.invalid.com/albums/n145/jimmyhoffa59/Grow/CIMG0034.jpg
http://i111.invalid.com/albums/n145/jimmyhoffa59/Grow/CIMG0114.jpg
http://i111.invalid.com/albums/n145/jimmyhoffa59/Grow/CIMG0047.jpg

:harvest:
 
#251
jimmyhoffa59 said:
All the information you need is in the UC threads.. just read a bunch of the grows.. tons of info.
Click to expand...

well I wanted to hear chris's opinion on the product since he is the US importer of the product and probably knows more about than anyone here.
I read his ten previous posts, and non of them touched on the question I just asked, of course other farmers have volunteered their opinions on HF, but how much is of that is just opinion, Im not sure and thats why Id rather get it from the horses mouth.

No offense Chris, LOL.
=O

Lost I found this from chris, maybe he can touch on further next time he stops in.


"Donk - its hard to get a precise answer from the manufactuer, SandA, about using it with other products. One thing for sure is, using it with bennies will waste your bennies money. Another point is, nothing catastrophic will happen by using it with H2O2 or chlor-based products. But, as for the effect diminishing or multiplying, I can't really say because it would be an un-educated guess. The only fact based thing I can say is, if you used H2O2 waiting for your next batch of HF, the H2O2 dissolves out within 24-48 hours so you can dose up with HF in the same reservoir full of nutes for sure."
 
#252
UCMENOW said:
Lets say someone wants to use down under HF, and then at a later wants to add a beneficials how long is the HF still active/killing stuff 5, days, 2 weeks.?

Good question Medi.
Click to expand...

I would say a maintanance dose of 2ml\gallon should dissipate in 5-7 days, but if you want to switch to bennies starting with a fresh tank has to be the best idea.
 
#253
I've been running UC/MPB dwc systems for a while now. I think I have over 6 cycles under my belt at this point with a perpetual 4 DWC gardens going at once.

Sterile res is the safest route, especially if you use DWC from clone to end of flower. 2/3ml of h2o2 or use DM Zone. SM-90 wasn't as good as h2o2 for me.

I had decent results with GH 3 part, subpar results with Sensi 2 part, and good results with Canna. I am using Canna exclusively now.

It seems like DWC growing systems has a harder time with Ca absorption (or maybe due to the explosive growth, it needs more Ca) compared to flat tables with E&F. I currently run 10ml/gal CalMag throughout veg and 3 weeks into flower. After that, I use CES MagAmp at half strength and 5ml of CalMag until finish.

Veg Nutrient profile:
Base nutrients, pH 5.5 to 5.8
CalMag 10ml/gallon
Superthrive, half strength
h2o2 every 3 days

Bloom Nutrient profile:
Base nutrients, pH 5.6 to 6.0
CalMag 10ml/gallon first 3 weeks, then 5ml/gallon until finish
Superthrive, half strength, first 3 weeks
CES MagAmp half strength whole duration
Ginormous 3 to 5 ml / gallon Week 2-5 or 6
Overdrive to finish
h2o2 every 3 days
 
#254
ca-mg is that burnt leaf tips everyone things is nute burn, happens all the time in DWC cuz.......Tipburn and cupping are indicative of calcium uptake or deficiency problems - usually in hydroponics with a good quality nutrient, a deficiency of calcium in the nutrient is rare. So tipburn and cupping are likely to be a calcium uptake problem within the plant due to other causes, such as rapid growth and environmental interactions. Calcium uptake can sometime not keep up with new cell growth demand on a rapidly growing plant with an overly high or low rate of transpiration. High light, which pushes growth can sometimes bring on this effect, as can high EC, high temperatures etc. Summary: Most tipburn is actually a Calcium deficiency from too much P & K slowing the transport of C.
 
#255
Yea my conclusion over the last few cycles has been some kind of inability for the plant to uptake Ca at a sufficient rate. This results in the chlorosis in the new growth and stunted new growth. The older fan leaves get a spotted rusted look which is a sign of Ca deficiency.

Doubling the CalMag and running a chelated magnesium (Mag Amp) has helped out the problem. It also allows me to run a lower pH in flower (5.6 to 5.9ish) since the chelated magnesium is easier to uptake.
 
#256
I tend to think excessive aeration causes the Ca to precipitate out of solution making additional supplementation necessary.

This seems evident in the lime type crud that builds up where the aerated solution bubbles up to.
 
#257
mr dizzle is right on. the amount of water the plant uptakes or does not uptake goes hand in hand with Ca uptake. Also K levels effect Ca as well. Ca moves with water within the plant.

chlorosis of new growth is an iron deficiency not Ca.

Ca deficiency is wrinkled new growth with the orange rust spots.
 
#258
Hey guys, I was researching the down under HF, it needs to be shaken up before use, doesn't mention it on the labeling, but yeah, shake it up!
 
#259
hey everyone... JH this thread has been a great place to find answers to questions about the UC. here is one I haven't found anyone ask or answer. Can I continue to use molasses in my UC? Have used it in all of my dirt grows and had great results. Of course I would dilute the Molasses with water before adding to the epicenter. if I don't see a reply to this soon I will let you all know what happens.
 
#260
No is my vote. Im quick like lightning, my girl is always complaining about that:D
 
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