Spider Farmer LED Grow

[Glassdub]

That depends. The sf-2000 is rated at 200w so ideally you’d run them at 160w. I have not put the kill-a-watt on them so give me a sec and I’ll post my results.

Well I was going by full throttle which is 257.7 so that comes to 206 at 80%.

 

[Glassdub]

there really need to have that driver on a 6ft wire...... and about 10 more bucks for a fined heat sink they got about 30 bucks in it and went 200 bones or more... man I need a backer to go into the Leds buss...

Funny that nobody does this (at least that I'm aware of).
To note the light panel is no cool thing even w/o the driver.

 

[Glassdub]

Spider Farmer specifically said you can run the SF-2000 up to 250 watts, here on this thread. But the instructions say that if you turn the light up too high, you void the warranty. They don't say what 'too high' is. The drivers are not soldered to the boards. I took one of the drivers and made a bracket to mount the driver on its side for ease of adjusting. Glassdub, I didn't add the computer fans to cool the growspace. I was trying to assure the best longevity of the light. I have exhaust and intake fans.

My manual says nothing about in voiding the warranty if you turn the light up too high.
The driver is not it self soldered to the board but the power wire is, I looked.

 

[Glassdub]

I do not run SF but I run a quantum boards I had built for me specific to my needs. I purchased 20 of them. I have used some of them for my first indoor grow and they work very well. Now for the knowledgeable seasoned grower may want more. The only difference I have is the price. I buy 10-20 pieces at a time so I get a good wholesale price on them. I pay $107 usd for SF quality built quantum boards. I am not fond of the larger sf4000 so I purchase the sf 2000 version. I know in a seasoned growers hands, they will be really surprised on the vegetative and how much light penetration you actually get for a 4 ft plant. I defoliated half and left others au natural. Had tons of suckers but were just as sticky as top buds. Now the ones defoliated had much nicer cola formation. I assure anyone that wants to upgrade from a lesser light, will appreciate this type of light. It has it's limitations, yes, but overall yields can be 1/4 -1/2lb per plant. I know as I finished a grow with them at 10 watts sq ft. I will run 30 watts this time and assure you that there will be a difference. The efficiency compared to HLG is not as refined IMO. But.... it will get you the quality to make next steps to more efficient LED's in future. I have not run HLG's but have a few growers that do and put out some good yields and quality. I will use mine up, make my dough and sink $10000 into a superior setup. For now I will run these. Might even side mount for flower this time. I am really curious of difference. Anyways my 2 cents. Peace : )

Well if I happened to get close that yield on my 3x4 tent I would be pleased.

 

[JWM2]

After running them for over an hour and taking some measurements the HLG boards and driver runs almost exactly 20 degrees cooler than the Spider Farmer. I do feel the spider farmer driver adds a bit of heat to the heatsink but this heatsink could be a little better. In terms of light I think the spider farmer is just fine. The only downsides I see are efficiency of the driver and cooling. So the question remains are the trade offs worth it?

With a better driver and better heatsink I’d say it’s a no brainer. Without these I’d say it’s a toss up but am leaning a little more towards HLG for the fact that additional heat can be costly to remedy. But again if they fixed those two things then it would be as good if not better IMO.

 

[lilnew]

After running them for over an hour and taking some measurements the HLG boards and driver runs almost exactly 20 degrees cooler than the Spider Farmer. I do feel the spider farmer driver adds a bit of heat to the heatsink but this heatsink could be a little better. In terms of light I think the spider farmer is just fine. The only downsides I see are efficiency of the driver and cooling. So the question remains are the trade offs worth it?

With a better driver and better heatsink I’d say it’s a no brainer. Without these I’d say it’s a toss up but am leaning a little more towards HLG for the fact that additional heat can be costly to remedy. But again if they fixed those two things then it would be as good if not better IMO.

yes, if you are comparing bang for buck. the light does do its job. that's wt aquaman keeps saying....It's NOT the light....its the GROWER!!!!

 

[Glassdub]

After running them for over an hour and taking some measurements the HLG boards and driver runs almost exactly 20 degrees cooler than the Spider Farmer. I do feel the spider farmer driver adds a bit of heat to the heatsink but this heatsink could be a little better. In terms of light I think the spider farmer is just fine. The only downsides I see are efficiency of the driver and cooling. So the question remains are the trade offs worth it?

With a better driver and better heatsink I’d say it’s a no brainer. Without these I’d say it’s a toss up but am leaning a little more towards HLG for the fact that additional heat can be costly to remedy. But again if they fixed those two things then it would be as good if not better IMO.

I figure when summer is gone I will save on gas as I turn the heat off when I leave home.

 

[PurSaveer]

 

[PurSaveer]

I may not be able to attach a picture to a post, but I ain't blind! Anyhow, I went all in with Spider Farmer. We're in a relationship now. I'm not talking shit, I'm using these things ;)
EDIT: 80% of maximum, or 80% of 'suggested' maximum? Spider farmer says it's OK to run their lights at 250W. They should clarify this point.

 

[Glassdub]

I may not be able to attach a picture to a post, but I ain't blind! Anyhow, I went all in with Spider Farmer. We're in a relationship now. I'm not talking shit, I'm using these things ;)
EDIT: 80% of maximum, or 80% of 'suggested' maximum? Spider farmer says it's OK to run their lights at 250W. They should clarify this point.

In fairness SF didn't give the 80% suggested maximum, someone here did though its close 80% = 200.32w Vs. the suggested 209w.
If I remember correctly they didn't say it was OK to run their lights at 250W but just stated it as the maximum possible.
PS: I may be blind or my manual may be different, The one I looked at was for the new dimable version, didn't check the old one as it was in the plant room during bedtime, will have to check & dim to 200w when I get home.

 

[JWM2]

In fairness SF didn't give the 80% suggested maximum, someone here did though its close 80% = 200.32w Vs. the suggested 209w.
If I remember correctly they didn't say it was OK to run their lights at 250W but just stated it as the maximum possible.
PS: I may be blind or my manual may be different, The one I looked at was for the new dimable version, didn't check the old one as it was in the plant room during bedtime, will have to check & dim to 200w when I get home.

I said that as that is the rule of thumb with any quantum led board. You want to run the diodes at 80% of maximum rated wattage. The driver on the other hand you can run as high as you want it. Now with the spider farmer LEDs I don’t know what they are rated at. I’m sure I could do the math and add it all up but I’m not going to do that right now. Imo spider farmer limited their driver to run at 80% max of what the LEDs are capable of so you can run the dimmer at 100% and you’ll be running the actual driver at 80% of its capacity.

I do have to somewhat apologize if I came off as fully endorsing spider farmer. I do not yet endorse their product. HLG is the king of the hill ATM. So until they are dethroned they will remain the cream of the crop.

I do feel the spider farmer is a capable unit as long as you can effectively deal with the heat. The heat does concern me though. It does scream inefficiency and wasted energy. I did not know this going in. But after running them for a couple hours and monitoring the temps it became obvious. Of course if you know this going in you can make adjustments and compensate for it. The problem I have is by switching out mid grow I have to redial in my VPD and deal with excess heat. That’s not going to happen. I spent months getting this current setup to where it is and I’m still dialing it in as the seasons change so for me this new unit is going to have to wait. I have folks relying on me to produce quality smoke and I’m not going to jeopardize it. Once this run is over with I’ll give it a shot and see how well I can adapt the rack to deal with the excess heat.

I do feel the spider farmer spectrum is more in line with what I’m looking for and have had great results with my FGI commercial quantum light using the exact same spectrum. Imo 3000k is too warm and 5000k is too cool. But together they give the optimal spectrum to ensure less stretch and fuller buds.

I also like the led spread and built in dimmer of this unit. So as a farmer you have to decide if the trade offs are worth it to you. If you can deal with the heat then by all means I feel you’re better off with the spider farmer. If not then you simply have no other choice but to buy HLG or make one of your own.

I hope spider farmer takes the time to make a few minor upgrades and firmly cements their spot in the led game. Imo a better driver and better heat sink would go a long ways. I wonder if this would be a good opportunity for me to modify their unit and see what it could be with a few minor changes? That might be an interesting project.

 

[Glassdub]

I said that as that is the rule of thumb with any quantum led board. You want to run the diodes at 80% of maximum rated wattage. The driver on the other hand you can run as high as you want it. Now with the spider farmer LEDs I don’t know what they are rated at. I’m sure I could do the math and add it all up but I’m not going to do that right now. Imo spider farmer limited their driver to run at 80% max of what the LEDs are capable of so you can run the dimmer at 100% and you’ll be running the actual driver at 80% of its capacity.

I do have to somewhat apologize if I came off as fully endorsing spider farmer. I do not yet endorse their product. HLG is the king of the hill ATM. So until they are dethroned they will remain the cream of the crop.

I do feel the spider farmer is a capable unit as long as you can effectively deal with the heat. The heat does concern me though. It does scream inefficiency and wasted energy. I did not know this going in. But after running them for a couple hours and monitoring the temps it became obvious. Of course if you know this going in you can make adjustments and compensate for it. The problem I have is by switching out mid grow I have to redial in my VPD and deal with excess heat. That’s not going to happen. I spent months getting this current setup to where it is and I’m still dialing it in as the seasons change so for me this new unit is going to have to wait. I have folks relying on me to produce quality smoke and I’m not going to jeopardize it. Once this run is over with I’ll give it a shot and see how well I can adapt the rack to deal with the excess heat.

I do feel the spider farmer spectrum is more in line with what I’m looking for and have had great results with my FGI commercial quantum light using the exact same spectrum. Imo 3000k is too warm and 5000k is too cool. But together they give the optimal spectrum to ensure less stretch and fuller buds.

I also like the led spread and built in dimmer of this unit. So as a farmer you have to decide if the trade offs are worth it to you. If you can deal with the heat then by all means I feel you’re better off with the spider farmer. If not then you simply have no other choice but to buy HLG or make one of your own.

I hope spider farmer takes the time to make a few minor upgrades and firmly cements their spot in the led game. Imo a better driver and better heat sink would go a long ways. I wonder if this would be a good opportunity for me to modify their unit and see what it could be with a few minor changes? That might be an interesting project.

Yeah, The new dimable SF2000 with the dimmer at full crank pulls 204w from the wall, I don't know it you can still adjust it under the driver like the old one.
Maybe this is why the new manual doesn't have that PS warning that is in the old one (It's there sure enough musta overlooked it.)
I'm just going to adjust both the 200w & call it a day, hope I didn't damage the old one in the last few days of overdriving I'm sure this will help my tent temps.
I like that the HLG boards have a have a non soldered power connector so you could actually mount the driver outside the tent with more ease.
If I wanted to spend 850 to a grand for a light I might consider it, maybe its worth it, what I have will do for now though.

 

[Glassdub]

I have a question, how do I balance between the VO & IO settings on the SF2000?
The adjustment video they recommended in the manual, which is mainly a review of the SF1000, only shows one pot.

 

[matthewearl]

hi spider i think your price are to high 560$ 480w 2pcs driver elg shit 40$ 4pcs qb 100$ i pcs heat sink shit 20$ plug 10$ shipping usa 50$ self build 250$ you can also bay on alibaba ready to shipping 50$ and the board 250$ =300$ and you give a small tent and your light 750$ you tent on ebay 80$ your price is the same som hlg 480 some also come from china but build in usa yeas your light make ok plant but you make 380$ every time you selling 1pcs 480w and you tell trust us i have bay from china the 8 last year and your light come also from alibaba you can ask alibaba who mister henning are so dont fuck whit me and all farmer grower some have small money sorry spider man first come mars hydro and do same job som you only think for money so now you understand mister trumf president have a big problem with china i have 8 pcs company in china after 8 year i can trust china will have i make a company in denmark but i am to old to start a company so to day i only help small grower not loos money to greedy company from china and i love it best regards henning

This would have been an epic post if it was in all caps.

 

[Glassdub]

This would have been an epic post if it was in all caps.

With his user name I assumed that was his trademark.

 

[PurSaveer]

Glassdub, here's a video of a guy adjusting the dimmer on a SF-2000.

 

[basscaptain]

With his user name I assumed that was his trademark.

most the time it is.... all CAPS

 

[Glassdub]

Glassdub, here's a video of a guy adjusting the dimmer on a SF-2000.

I used this, kinda gave more reason & nerds the specs to the max.

 

[SpiderFarmerLED]

Hi,
Welcome! I’m very impressed with your lights, and I’ve been trying to purchase 2 SF2000 lights on your website, but at checkout it says you can’t deliver to my location. I live in St. Thomas, U. S. Virgin Islands. Can that issue be rectified? Or is there another way that I can purchase them? Appreciate your thoughts on this.

Hi， thank you so much for your support. So sorry that we have got the information from express company that the item can not be sent to your shipping address. Sorry again for this inconvenience.

 

[SpiderFarmerLED]

W

That is the thinnest cheapest heat sink you can get. With the cheap supplemental diodes and low bin likely unmatched samsung diodes long life was not a priority.

Nice marketing though. Except for lying about their affiliation with Meihzi.

We're partners with MEIZHI lol