Spider Mites

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AJGirlsGrow2

AJGirlsGrow2

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This is the site I have been using so far, and so far so good. I'll post updates and progress.
http://www.growweedeasy.com/spider-mites

How To Get Rid of a Spider Mite Infestation



Step 1: Kill Them!

Step 2: Follow Up Again in 2-3 Days

Step 3: Repeat if Necessary

Step 4: Protect Your Plants



air circulation is great for pest prevention. Spider mites love heat and stagnant, non-moving air. They can't mate in windy conditions so a strong fan can help keep the infestation from getting worse. A breeze also helps pest treatments go better because fans help spray treatments dry on the plant.

Azamax is a time-tested way to rid your grow room of spider mites. Spray plants 15 minutes before lights out, making sure to drench the foliage under the leaves as well as the top of your soil. Use a fan to blow on your leaves to help things dry. Treat your room more than once, even if you believe the spider mites are gone. You can also add small amounts of Azamax when watering your plants, as it will not hurt your roots but will kill spider mites in the soil. You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly.



Mighty Wash - Use just like Azamax (drench leaves top and bottom), though it works in a completely different way so you can use both of them to attack your spider mites (though not at the same time). You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly.

one-hand-pressure-sprayer-xsm.jpg


Spinosad Products (safe & organic) - Spinosad products are organic and unlike many other spider mite pesticides, completely harmless to pets, children, and plants. Unlike many insecticides, you can spray spinosad heavily on leaves and roots with basically no negative effects. Spinosad products can be used directly to kill spider mites on contact, but can also be used when watering plants to systematically kill spider mites via the roots. Spinosad can also be effective at fighting caterpillars, thrips, and many other marijuana pests.

Can be used both as a topical spray like Azamax and Mighty Wash, and can also be used directly at the roots. Spinosad is an organic insecticide made from the fermentation of a specific soil bacteria (actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa) and kills spider mites via ingestion or contact by effecting the insect's nervous system. Spinosad can be a good choice for organic and outdoor growers, because it is very toxic to spider mites, but is less toxic to many beneficial arthropods.

Note: Most spinosad products are effective for only about 24 hours after being mixed with water, so only mix as much as you will need per application. Anything left over will be waste. You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly.

Recommended: Monterey Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad

one-hand-pressure-sprayer-xsm.jpg


Essentria IC3 (organic)

Essentria IC3 Insecticide is a mix of various horticultural oils that is organic and safe for humans. It is often marketed as a "bed bug killer" but it can be effective against many bugs, including spider mties, when the plants are treated regularly. Unfortunately it only stays effective on the plant for about 8-12 hours so you will want to either apply this daily or (better idea) combine with other options. You will need a mister (also called a "One-Hand Pressure Sprayer") to spray all the leaves evenly.

one-hand-pressure-sprayer-xsm.jpg


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Insecticidal soaps

Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps weaken the outer shell of spider mites but are safe for humans and don't leave much of a residue.

With soaps, coverage is very important as it does not stay on your plant for long, so follow-up applications may be necessary.

Although this is considered safe, avoid getting any on your buds so it doesn't affect the taste/smell!

Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout Spray - This spray is hard on spider mites, but the main ingredient Pyrethrum can also be hard on plants, especially in tight spaces without much ventilation, so keep it as a last resort if possible. Use with extreme care around humans as the ingredients can be toxic. Never use Pyrethrum-based products on your plants while your grow lights are on as it can burn your plants. Avoid using Pyrethrum products on young or sensitive plants as they can get burned even when the lights are left off.

Do cover your grow lights and vents when bombing your plants with Pyrethrum and make sure you give the area at least 24 hours to air out before you try to breathe the air. This spray can work well for a couple of plants, but you'll want a Pyrethrum fogger if you have a lot of plants to treat. Outdoors, Pyrethrum can kill beneficial insects too, so keep that in mind if you're using natural predators to control pests (like ladybugs). All that being said, this spray will work to get rid of most spider mites, and it kills them on contact. Pyrethrum kills spider mites but not their eggs, so this product usually needs to be used 2-4 times (once every 2-3 days) to stop the breeding cycle and get rid of the toughest infestations.



NoPest Strips - these emit a vapor that kills spider mites, but do NOT use these if you will be breathing air from your grow room as the vapor they give off is toxic to humans and other mammals. These are only suitable if you're growing somewhere that is NOT your living space, but can be an effective way to get rid of spider mites.



Floramite - Strong stuff with harsh chemicals, incredibly expensive, but it can often do the job when everything else fails. Use as directed and only as a last resort!



Bleach solution (1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 gallon of 95°F, pH balanced, water in a spray bottle or mister) - make sure to clean all surfaces of your room, and bleach them too if possible.

Alcohol and Water mixed together (9 parts water to 1 part alcohol) will also kill the bugs on contact and shouldn't hurt the plant. You will want to use a spray bottle or mister.

SM-90 mixed with water (1 part SM-90 to 5 parts water) kills spider mites on contact and is organic (it even smells good!). You will need a mister to get nice even coverage on all the leaves with SM-90.



Neem Oil works in a similar way to SM-90, though Neem oil doesn't smell as nice and will leave an unpleasant taste/smell on buds when used to treat flowering plants. There's some evidence Neem oil may be harmful to humans so use with care! Just as with SM-90, you will need a mister to get all the leaves evenly, especially since neem oil and water will separate easily.

Insect predators - there are also insect predators such as lady bugs and predatory mites that can provide some control and reduce your spider mite numbers, but it is unlikely these will get rid of your spider mites on their own. Insect predators can be effective if you have a small problem or if you need to get to harvest and chemical sprays are not a good option.

Diatomaceous Earth - Basically, this is fossil dust - sprinkle on the top of your soil, and anywhere else in your room (window sills, doorways, etc). This powder-like substance is harmless to mammals and plants, but is incredibly sharp at the microscopic level. Therefore it will tear and dehydrate spider mites on physical contact. This will not get rid of an infestation, but can help control and slow things down when used effectively.

Treat Entire Grow Area With Insecticide, Not Just Plants! - Treat complete room with broad spectrum insecticide (only do this for a really bad problem, or one that keeps coming back) - avoid this if you can!

Note: Many growers try to avoid chemical sprays or miticides which contain Abamectin or lindane because these are harmful to humans. Please take a look at anything you use to treat your grow room, follow the directions closely, and heed all warnings. Some treatments will work for some setups or types of mites, but not for others. As mentioned earlier, if you got your spider mites from another marijuana grower, chances are you may need to resort to extreme measures to get rid of your infestation.



Step 2: Follow up in 2-3 days with a different method to kill them (you should also re-apply your first method)

Follow up in 2-3 days with something different that will also kill their eggs and any surviving adults. The adults at this point will already be more resistant to your original method so you'll get the best results using something else for the second treatment.



Step 3: Repeat Step 1 & 2 at least one more time - always treat grow area at least once after you think spider mites are completely gone

Repeat steps 1 & 2 at least one more time to ensure that you have really cleaned out your grow room. Some species of spider mite can take days or weeks to mature and will reappear in the grow room stronger than ever. Because of this, you should treat your area at least once after you are almost certain all the spider mites are gone.

Using a mix of several different methods seems to work best for getting rid of spider mites. Some spider mites are more resistant to some methods than others.

If you can see spider mites with your eyes, it means you probably have millions in the room waiting to hatch.



Step 4: Prevention: thoroughly inspect and proof your grow area against future attacks

Once spider mites are gone, you need to worry about prevention.

With spider mites, the best offense is a good defense! Stop spider mites from ever getting hold of your grow room with good prevention....
 
AJGirlsGrow2

AJGirlsGrow2

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Both products I used are safe for food plants, I read about the pest strips and fogging and the more heavy stuff.
 
AJGirlsGrow2

AJGirlsGrow2

223
63
I thought you meant my food plants, sorry. I tried very carefully not to get any buds wet and they are only 3 weeks in. I put right in front of fan to dry and I'll flush them.
 
VERMONTSKUNKS

VERMONTSKUNKS

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All of those chemicals are single-site mode of action miticides, and are known to cause resistance, some more quickly than others. Azamax/Azatrol are known not to, as taught to me by babaG here on the farm. They also typically require a good bit of personal protective gear to be applied safely.

I've used it, and was unimpressed between the cost and the difficulty in getting some oils into an emulsion. Frankly, the iso method I prefer is what I've ended up using much more often and stick to now, especially since I was sending my trim to a friend for extracts. He does NOT want other plant essential oils in the mix (especially neem). Btw, SNS 217 *is* essential oils (and emulsifiers).

I've reverse engineered the SNS 217C. It's ok. I prefer using a mix of 1:1 iso:water applied every 2-3 days for two weeks.

Spraying with pH'd water won't do a thing to the mites, but it's effective for killing the fruiting bodies of powdery mildew.
Yeah i aint forgotten your teachings......even borg mite soldiers cant handle a diligent 91%spray of 1:1 mix. I wo der if the iso kills the eggs as well?
 
AJGirlsGrow2

AJGirlsGrow2

223
63
I've been doing my research on these little bastard's and have a few questions.
- prevention??(I know it's not 100%)
- would spraying the foliage with ph'd water (tops/underside) everyday/everyother day help?
- sns217? Good or waste of money?


I'm going to run a 8-10" fan blowing up towards the top and of course a few clip fans for proper air movement.this should help to correct?


I am just going to share what worked for me. I started seeing the white spots and i did not have anything so at first I hand wiped every leaf with a wet paper towel til they wiped clean. I went to store and they gave me free sample of azamax. I started spraying the leaves, drenching in veg, and watering it with it mixed in on times I was not feeding. I alternated between azamax and monterey spray , both as leaf spray and watering with. We have not had a siting at all on my new plants which are at least 8 weeks from root. So basically every other watering or perhaps every 3rd, so about every 2-3 weeks, I sprayed with azamax once and then the next time I do it I use the monterey spray and so on. The last time I sprayed was probably a month and a half ago and we are fine right now. Also, yes, a fan, windy makes it harder for them to mate, and go ahead and hit it with a wet paper towel, wipes the eggs right off even if you can't see it, youll see it on the wet paper towel. And do not spray the leaves regularly with water.
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

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Just because its safe for food plants doesnt mean its safe for smokable plants. I wouldnt spray anything on a flowering plant.
me neither.. even tho i did use ogbiowar foliar pack once on plants 3 weeks into flower, but i tried to not get much on the small flowers...
Idk the effects of it, i didnt notice any but thats a far cry from lab testing!
 
DemonTrich

DemonTrich

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Rosemary essential oil.

Sns217 has only a .2% rosemary solution. Reason why I make my own. Check out the IPM thread. A few of us posted up some homemade IPM sprays
 
GanjaNGains

GanjaNGains

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How big is your space you can buy Lady bugs this time of year. I found a few of he rubby red spider mites like one ever few days here and there I just put 1500 lady bugs in my 7x10 garden and havnt seen anything but lady bugs for days now the guy at the hydro store said the lady bugs eat one bug a day but I figure 1500 bugs eaten a day is more then enough and cheap only cost like 12 bucks
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

15,707
438
How big is your space you can buy Lady bugs this time of year. I found a few of he rubby red spider mites like one ever few days here and there I just put 1500 lady bugs in my 7x10 garden and havnt seen anything but lady bugs for days now the guy at the hydro store said the lady bugs eat one bug a day but I figure 1500 bugs eaten a day is more then enough and cheap only cost like 12 bucks
Man you ever been bit by ladybugs...
1500 seems like a scary movie :(
 
Smerb

Smerb

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How big is your space you can buy Lady bugs this time of year. I found a few of he rubby red spider mites like one ever few days here and there I just put 1500 lady bugs in my 7x10 garden and havnt seen anything but lady bugs for days now the guy at the hydro store said the lady bugs eat one bug a day but I figure 1500 bugs eaten a day is more then enough and cheap only cost like 12 bucks
Should of let about 500 go first. Then 2 more rounds. As soon as you see no ladies go for the next round. I do this with the outdoor small greenhouse. Put that jar back in fridge and they chill out. Just some thoughts.
 
DrMcSkunkins

DrMcSkunkins

Dabbling in Oil
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GanjaNGains

GanjaNGains

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Should of let about 500 go first. Then 2 more rounds. As soon as you see no ladies go for the next round. I do this with the outdoor small greenhouse. Put that jar back in fridge and they chill out. Just some thoughts.

Sounds good
 
Smerb

Smerb

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First off, don't spray any "preventatives" that are not healthy and beneficial, absolutely ridiculous to be poisoning your patients unless absolutely necessary...some of this advice is from people who have no business growing.

I just noticed a spider mite plant today in the corner almost totally destroyed, speckles over all leaves on a 2' tall mob boss plant with webbing and everything in a room with 50 others that mostly are unaffected.

First thing I did was go over everything in veg, pruning and checking the damage on every single plant, had been a few weeks since I personally pruned and must have snuck up on me during that time. Saw maybe 10 plants with evidence of mites and only 3 were bad. One was unhealthy so I killed it, the worst one which was the first I saw I treated as follows.

Filled a small spray bottle with Mighty wash (ultimate wash) and sprayed the entire plant then came through with a paint brush and wiped the mites and eggs off both sides of every leaf, front and back, maybe took 5 minutes. Make sure you brush everything, the tiny white eggs and dark mites off, and that the sides are wet because it kills on contact... Only needed to do this to 2 other plants besides the one I killed, so luckily the damage wasn't too bad but if I had waited a week I would be totally fucked, and even another couple of days this plant would need to be killed but I am happy with how it's been cleaned and will do it again in a few days to be safe but pretty sure 95-99% of them are gone on that plant.

Now that the whole room has been cleaned and examined, I am breaking out my forbid which I haven't had to use for 2 years...this stuff is the golden ticket against spider mites, basically if you spray a plant (that's not totally infested) they will die if they eat it for 30 days and their eggs will die too, since its a systemic. So spray it twice about a week apart and do the cleaning like I described and you will pretty much never see one of those fuckers again. But never use the forbid, or any systemic a week after flowering starts, one you are poisoning people and two it's not effective the flowering hormones will cancel out the effects, stick with Mighty wash for in flower plants or just isolate them in your flower room so they arent touching and brush them off as much as possible.

I don't like floramite harsh chemical and not effective first time I used it the mites were hanging down from single webs the day after I sprayed it but became resistant and couldn't get rid of them, avid is a systemic that isn't considered a cure by any means, pyrethrins good for aphids, azamax will kill your plants faster than anything, spinosad is alright seems to kill on contact But nothing I would use again, I wouldn't mess with essential oils but some good possibilities in that direction with the right recipe I think. Most other solutions I have seen have either been too damaging or not effective not that I have seen it all, but alot of this advice I don't care for. Forbid is the key to easily make your crop forbidden to spider mites but I really hope I don't have to use it for another couple years, cross my fingers =X
Hey, your wrong. Sorry. You have all that to say? One thing, never even get spider mites in the first place.......
 
Smerb

Smerb

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Another thing. @Smoke342 what makes you king of spider mite knowledge, so much knowledg that you suffocate this thread with your thoughts, not facts. Just wondering what's up.
 
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