Stop Chronic Overfeeding, and some tips with canna coco

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S

shilohjordan

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Chronic overfeeder. ROFL! Have you tried boost?

Be warned, Those levels with canna alone, will not be enough for heavy feeding strains. You got it solved with the cal/mg. That is why I was always turned off by there base.

For other reading and making the switch: If your switching to canna from another brand good to keep that in mind as well. Same ec in canna is not the same as other brands as well.
I was a taught that you ppms are really based on your light watts, have you heard this anywhere?
 
S

shilohjordan

2
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LESS IS MORE.....

I have been a chronic overfeeder for around 3 yrs now. In over half a dozen systems, coco,soil, ebb n flo, deep water, shallow water, in or out.......

Enough with the past.....here what I do for certain know.

*Additives are not needed, other than a bloom booster, and zone/h202 to keep things clean

*Rhizo as a foliar, and once @ transplant at 2ml/gal

*Canna wants you to pour your money down the drain.

*Plants over/underfed have very similar traits.

*r/o water works but you must add calmag, and preferably a higher cal product like....

*Calimagic....to replace calmag+ for the win!

*LESS IS MORE>......... .5 scale for those caring.
***200 ppm of a + b for veg...is plenty....
***400 ppm of a + b for flower is plenty.

***Calimagic/a+b ratio***
150 ppm/200 ppm = 350
100 ppm/3ooppm = 400
50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450

* 5.8 ph*

* when transplanting....no charge, no double dose, and no flush....just absolutely water to 3o% run off.

I havent had this good of results in almost 4 years.

plants can take extreme amount of abuse, overfeeding and mistreatment
Two runs ago I was feeding around 1200 ppm's and the plants took it without much signs of dislike....

Currently @ wk 4 with 10 strains all being fed the same soup.
@ 500 ppm total max solution.

hope this helps someone....I'll try to get some pics up soon.
Would you say that ppms are best calculated by how many watts you have your garden and what week they are in?
 
P

Pimples

What the final feed strength (electrical conductivity or EC...expressed in a number) of your plant mineral nutrient solution is depends on several factors. The most important being at what stage of growth or development the plant is in...the environment (temperature , realtive humidity, airflow , day/night , pH , etc.)...the spectrum and intensity (what kind and how much) of the artificial light they are under...and the specific varietal or cultivar being grown. Good thread. Interesting to see what everyone is feeding thier crops and all. The numbers are all over the place...from all the growers. It goes to show how truly unique and different the growrooms are. That being said...ive used quite a bit of Canna Coco A & B. Amongst a ton of other brands. And the sweet spot for me using 0.2 EC tap water is 1.0 to 1.6 EC with a pH of 5.8 to 6.2. This is betwee. 7.5 to 12 ml. per gallon per part. No additives are necessary. No calmag. No root boosters. No silica. No bud boosters. No humic. No fulvic. No mycos. No carbs. No aminos. None of it. Of course i still use all of that. Lol. But i dont know if i really see or smoke a difference to be honest.
 
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GLGC.MI

GLGC.MI

Every time I spend serious time in my garden and really feel like I got this down, I come across one of these threads and I remember how much more their is to learn. I use a+b, cannazym, rhizo at the beginning, calmag+ and a couple other little additives here and there to taste- always WELL under the recommended concentrations. Girls seem happy with it but now I'm thinking it's time to add a little tea...
 
P

Pimples

Every time I spend serious time in my garden and really feel like I got this down, I come across one of these threads and I remember how much more their is to learn. I use a+b, cannazym, rhizo at the beginning, calmag+ and a couple other little additives here and there to taste- always WELL under the recommended concentrations. Girls seem happy with it but now I'm thinking it's time to add a little tea...
It happens to all of us man. Once everything is dailed and chugging along...you think of ways to try and push it even more. Trial and error. Your becoming a better grower. Ive been growing for 25 plus years and iam always attempting new methods, techniques, and products/gear/strains to try. Ive found out that strain selection..time in veg..and canopy management/manipulation is everything. And building the room , gear, nutes, etc. around the strains is key. The varieties are so damn different.
 
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GLGC.MI

GLGC.MI

Yea pimples. I'm actually going a seminar at a Michigan dispenso tonight. I'm sure it'll be 500 things I didn't know. It's more art than science at this point. So many variables! Just built this new veg setup with my brothers last night
 
Nybadboy

Nybadboy

LESS IS MORE.....

I have been a chronic overfeeder for around 3 yrs now. In over half a dozen systems, coco,soil, ebb n flo, deep water, shallow water, in or out.......

Enough with the past.....here what I do for certain know.

*Additives are not needed, other than a bloom booster, and zone/h202 to keep things clean

*Rhizo as a foliar, and once @ transplant at 2ml/gal

*Canna wants you to pour your money down the drain.

*Plants over/underfed have very similar traits.

*r/o water works but you must add calmag, and preferably a higher cal product like....

*Calimagic....to replace calmag+ for the win!

*LESS IS MORE>......... .5 scale for those caring.
***200 ppm of a + b for veg...is plenty....
***400 ppm of a + b for flower is plenty.

***Calimagic/a+b ratio***
150 ppm/200 ppm = 350
100 ppm/3ooppm = 400
50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450

* 5.8 ph*

* when transplanting....no charge, no double dose, and no flush....just absolutely water to 3o% run off.

I havent had this good of results in almost 4 years.

plants can take extreme amount of abuse, overfeeding and mistreatment
Two runs ago I was feeding around 1200 ppm's and the plants took it without much signs of dislike....

Currently @ wk 4 with 10 strains all being fed the same soup.
@ 500 ppm total max solution.

hope this helps someone....I'll try to get some pics up soon.
I'm in week 3 of bloom and all I have is canna A and B is this ok for now until i get the canna bloom?
 
Lorcan

Lorcan

Hi when measuring ppm in coco using tap water with ppm of 200, do you count this into your total or do you deduct the 200 to get real ppm? Thanks to all.
 
C

costa

You count it into your total , eg if you want a ppm of 700, you add 400 ppm of nutes to your 200 ppm water .
 
Samoan

Samoan

My TAP water is 7.3ph and 155ppm. I'm using Canna A and B light feeding, ph 5.8-6.0. Would anyone suggest that I add any CalMag? I think I read that canna is designed to be used with tap? A little silica blast in veg. ...just ordered some hy-Brix molasses
That is all I'm using. Just started bubbling compost tea.
Im pretty sure this OG BIO WAR beneficial microbes are definitely working some magic
 
P

Pimples

My TAP water is 7.3ph and 155ppm. I'm using Canna A and B light feeding, ph 5.8-6.0. Would anyone suggest that I add any CalMag? I think I read that canna is designed to be used with tap? A little silica blast in veg. ...just ordered some hy-Brix molasses
That is all I'm using. Just started bubbling compost tea.
Im pretty sure this OG BIO WAR beneficial microbes are definitely working some magic
No. Your tap is similar to mine. Canna Coco A & B using the light feed chart on the Canna website is damn near perfect. You have optimum amounts of calcium and magnesium carbonates and probably iron in your tap. They just need a little "push" with some natural chelation agents. I suggest adding a little fulvic acid and amino acid in the form of a simple soy plant or fish protein hydrolysate to make them tap carbonates more readily available to the rhizosphere. Your tap would be your calmag then.
 
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Samoan

Samoan

LESS IS MORE.....

I have been a chronic overfeeder for around 3 yrs now. In over half a dozen systems, coco,soil, ebb n flo, deep water, shallow water, in or out.......

Enough with the past.....here what I do for certain know.

*Additives are not needed, other than a bloom booster, and zone/h202 to keep things clean

*Rhizo as a foliar, and once @ transplant at 2ml/gal

*Canna wants you to pour your money down the drain.

*Plants over/underfed have very similar traits.

*r/o water works but you must add calmag, and preferably a higher cal product like....

*Calimagic....to replace calmag+ for the win!

*LESS IS MORE>......... .5 scale for those caring.
***200 ppm of a + b for veg...is plenty....
***400 ppm of a + b for flower is plenty.

***Calimagic/a+b ratio***
150 ppm/200 ppm = 350
100 ppm/3ooppm = 400
50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450

* 5.8 ph*

* when transplanting....no charge, no double dose, and no flush....just absolutely water to 3o% run off.

I havent had this good of results in almost 4 years.

plants can take extreme amount of abuse, overfeeding and mistreatment
Two runs ago I was feeding around 1200 ppm's and the plants took it without much signs of dislike....

Currently @ wk 4 with 10 strains all being fed the same soup.
@ 500 ppm total max solution.

hope this helps someone....I'll try to get some pics up soon.
Aloha and mahalo for sharing.
I have taken very special interest in this thread.
I have been using this as a reference before I even began growing my medicine and I believe has been very helpful.
 
Samoan

Samoan

Every time I spend serious time in my garden and really feel like I got this down, I come across one of these threads and I remember how much more their is to learn. I use a+b, cannazym, rhizo at the beginning, calmag+ and a couple other little additives here and there to taste- always WELL under the recommended concentrations. Girls seem happy with it but now I'm thinking it's time to add a little tea...
Have you added tea to the regimen?
 
NeverMrs

NeverMrs

Wow...

CalMag is such a joke guys... Cocoforcannabis.com explains it very well and very... Lament... The reason you "need" to add CalMag is for the coco... Coco loves calcium and magnesium and it bonds to it, and doesn't let the roots take it up. Look up buffering Coco coir and you'll understand why it appears to be working... I buy Urban Jardine coco and they only buffer with Calcium, so I tend to see magnesium deficiencies until mid veg... That being said, I still use it up to flower, as it's more cost effective, but once it's balanced then the need for calmag as an additive disappears... Don't need it in flower at all. Also, I use canna coco A and B which actually has double the percentage of calmag than that of my calmag additive, so I'm pretty sure I'm going to scrap it altogether.

That website is pretty awesome though, especially for newbies to coco...
 
M

mulehunter

Wow...

CalMag is such a joke guys... Cocoforcannabis.com explains it very well and very... Lament... The reason you "need" to add CalMag is for the coco... Coco loves calcium and magnesium and it bonds to it, and doesn't let the roots take it up. Look up buffering Coco coir and you'll understand why it appears to be working... I buy Urban Jardine coco and they only buffer with Calcium, so I tend to see magnesium deficiencies until mid veg... That being said, I still use it up to flower, as it's more cost effective, but once it's balanced then the need for calmag as an additive disappears... Don't need it in flower at all. Also, I use canna coco A and B which actually has double the percentage of calmag than that of my calmag additive, so I'm pretty sure I'm going to scrap it altogether.

That website is pretty awesome though, especially for newbies to coco...
Cool keep us updated on how it works out for you.
 
guymandude

guymandude

Hi, I'm GMD, and I am chronic overfeeder. Been doing the same with AN since the changed the formula to pH perfect. Getting great results now though, now that i finally figured out what the damn problem was.

Don't know much about Canna nutes, but wanted ot let you know you are not alone....
 
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