Stop The Bro Science Behind Molasses And Other Organic Stuff

[oldskol4evr]

I'm interested in Bokashi. I compost all the food that I can, but I hear Bokashi can handle all the things compost can't like meat and dairy, is that correct? I also want to turn my outdoor compost pile into an indoor worm bin, but I don't want it to smell. So I would put it thru the Bokashi bin first and then send that thru the worm bin right? As of right now I don't get enough castings produced since I don't have many inputs for my pile. I want to find some cheap grain or whatever works best/fastest for good castings.

take the em1 and make the bokashi with grain meal,ive even seen some use burr,anyway you mix it in the meal and it sits till dry,then when you empty the evening scraps in it,you put just a little over top of it,you can also use this in toliets and septic tanks,its that easy ,there are several ways to make it just you tube it,simple,the grain meal and others used all have one thing in common,you got to mix it just right,not to wet ,not to dry,,and then just bag it,,the bokasshi buckets have a speckit on the bottom of bucket to drain the juice and you can feed that directly to your plants,you should be able to find the cotton burr or grain meal at a feed store around you,it can also be bought at grocery store ,but way to damn expensive that way

 

[oldskol4evr]

@oldskol4evr
After learning about malawi ferment curing and that our curing is exactly that...controlled fermentation is what breaks thc down into simpler forms. Like composting weed.

I've started utilizing fermentation jar lids and its bringing some flavor out fast. You can cure weed when its wet but im letting it roll at 70%. 0 oxygen makes mold non-existent. It brings out wilder flavors. Like wild turkey vs butterball. Gamey but tasty. Gets you fucked up too.

hahahahah

 

[Ecompost]

A few years back I planted a lemon, lime, grapefruit, and two navel orange trees in my back yard. After the first year they weren't doing too well and I saw some really crinkly leaves kind of swirly on one of the orange trees. I thought I over fertilized it at first but after doing some research on a website they showed the same leaves and said it could be bugs. I went and looked close and found I was infested with Asian citrus psyllids. After that I thought maybe my compost pile had something to do with it so I stopped putting fruit in it and the problem hasn't been nearly as bad. I don't know if it was coincidence but I don't want to chance it. I found a map online that shows the infested areas and I'm in one so I have to be careful. Luckily they haven't been finding any greening in my area yet.

Yeah those citrus flies buddy. I have 165 Orange trees, various, mostly Valencia Late,but I have Navelinas, and Navels too, I also grow Mandarins, Tangerines, Lemons, 3 types, Avocados, Guava, Persimmon, Dragon Fruit, Walnuts, Almonds, Olives, Moringa, Soursop, Goji berry. I have over 600 trees in total to manage, plus a small market garden area of perpetual beds that is 6000m2. This is luckily my house, so I dont have to travel and can manage the land easier because I am literally living in and on it. I really find the hanging bottles on the sun rise side helps buddy. Most of those dark green curled leves are related to insects, this is true of leaf roll more generally, see MJ and Tomatoes and all sorts. Hanging a bottle on ammonia on the sun rise side really restricts the chances they will host on the trees. Also irrigation is vital for oranges. I find if you over water or under, or even water where trees have been in drought for time before, this can bring all manner of issues, from pests to splitting fruits and beyond. I find it really easy to manage nutrients on my Citrus, but I struggle if we get unplanned heavy rain.
The land I took over here has been roundly abused for many years, it was highly sodic, and still suffers a little from excessive sodium from past management, but we are a millions miles from where it was when we got here. I have just used a combination of Gypsum with Bio Veg, K+AMINO, Root better has specific citrus fungus so i used this of course, and then once i stabilized the trees, I made up some Bokashi soil and lightly forked this in at the drip line to provide ongoing nutrition, boost soil fauna and limit my liquid inputs. The trees are now in fine fettle and we are about at harvest for some of the strains i grow. Just a shame global prices for oranges dont reflect the effort and or the quality of the produce :-)

 

[Ecompost]

Then you can scan all the good bits and share them with the rest of us :p

Have you ever heard of this Activated EM•1 microbe?
This is copy and pasted from this website - I've never used their microbial product, but I thought it was pretty awesome that they promote brewing more on the cheap and even give you instructions on how to do it!

"Get The Biggest Bang For Your Buck: Make Your Own Activated EM•1® For Less Than $4 Per Gallon!
EM•1® microbial products can be grown one time for economical purposes. This "growing" or "brewing" process is calledActivation (it used to be called "extension"). It does not mean the microbes in EM•1® are not active; they are. It is just a term EMRO developed years ago. Activation involves taking one part EM•1®, 1 part molasses, and 20 parts water. Numbers can be rounded up or down a bit according to the size of the container and are not crucial to the outcome of the final product."
I wonder if this would work with other microbial products or any of the Korean Natural farming concoctions?

its good to go mate, but EM-1 is different to IMO, IMO is localized and can not be brought but from a very local supplier. IMO requires you collect the microbes from soil samples in your locale. Activating EM-1 mimics IMO#1 - IMO#2
You can then use IMO#1 as a basis for other applications, it has a chain moving from #1-4, each one adding a process. IMO is not LAB, EM-1 is really, but you can make LAB while making IMO#1, in fact you should, it reduces waste and maximizes economy.
You can find guides from a dude on Youtube here

EM is a blend of beneficial microorganisms developed by Teruo Higa, a professor at the University of the Ryukyu in Japan. These microorganisms improve the health of the soil, the plants, water and humans by breaking down organic matter in the soil, fixing nitrogen from the air, and feeding and protecting plants and animals. The organisms included are primarily yeast and pro-biotic photosynthetic bacteria and lactic acid bacteria. Buying EM is quite expensive, and you actually can make yourself at very minimal cost.

In Asia, they even further process the EM into 4 types of EM (EM1, EM2, EM3 and EM4) and become much more effective and best depending what you will use the EM for. Here is simple way to make your own EM.
EM1 is the original trademark product and contains a group of bacteria primarily lactic acid bacteria (lactic acid produced in metabolism), yeast, and photosynthetic bacteria. EM1 contains only three types of microorganisms in ideal proportions.
EM2 is a mixture of more microorganisms, which is about 10 types and 80 species. Microorganisms, like many in EM1, also exist together as a consortium. The main microbes that exist in the EM2 is a photosynthetic bacteria, fungi, yeasts or molds, and so on. Made in liquid culture medium with pH 7 and stored at pH 8.5. The population of microorganisms in the solution is about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM3 consists of approximately 90% of bacteria photosynthesis and the rest are of other microorganisms. EM3 was cultured and stored at pH 8.5. Microorganism population in the fluid is also about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM4 consisted of 90% Lactobacillus spp. and microorganisms that produce lactic acid more. EM is made by culture in liquid medium was acidic pH of 4.5. The number of microorganisms retained the same as above, ie 1 billion per gram of fluid.
That’s the main difference between EM1, EM2, EM3, and EM4. So in principle, the differences caused by the content of microorganisms of each type of EM is. The one that mostly used in Asia to boost farming and fisheries is the EM4.
Materials:
- Vegetables waste, especially beans
- Fruit skin peels (papaya, banana, rambutan, mango, etc..)
- Cheap Bran
- Brown sugar
- Rice water (the water you use to wash rice before you cook it)
Method:
- Mixed vegetable waste, fruit peels and bran. Place the instance in a bucket or container. Close and stir occasionally, leave for one week to rot and then it become EM (EM1). EM stands for Effective microorganisms that will accelerate the composting process.
- EM1 liquid waste is mixed with vegetable and fruit peels. Then keep again for a week. It will develop a new liquid called EM2.
- EM2 fluid mixed with bran, brown sugar and rice water and keep for about a week, it will become EM3.
- Lets stand for about another week without adding anything. It will be EM4.

(Source http://boboy.net/2012/01/make-your-own-em-effective-microorganisms/ )

 

[Ecompost]

yes it will,you can make the bokashi i spoke of with it,arizona schools are using this with all the lunch meals every day,they have kids scraping trays and then the waste goes into bokashi buckets,as they scrap and get about 3inches deep they add a layer of bokashi and continue on,,have a special place set aside and the kids take turns,taking buckets to and from and also draining the buckets,at a certain time,they then take the bokashi waste to a 4ft wide by 3ft deep trench they have dug,put the bokashi waste in cover with a little soil and continue own,,they have a amuculant garden that they pick from and goes right back into the school supply and even the community effort of food banks,,great program,bringing the way of life of how it really is and get credits for learning something that might save there own lives one day,,NOW THATS A PROGRAM WERE MY TAX PAYING MONEY SHOULD GO,i would love to see this first hand,future farmers my friends future farmers learning that dirt is dirt and soil is gold

we set up a system to do this Esti mate :) It is important we begin to understand what waste really is. No better place than to start with kids. if we took all the scientists in the world, stopped them all and said, hey lets all study soil, we still would not have enough minds to understand it, nor would we get close in my life time. There is no time to sit idle in my opinion. We must arm tomorrows farmers with the skills to live in a world where Nitrogen and Phosphorous use is strictly regulated and controlled. Those of you BOX clients, are already ahead of the coming regulation and need not change a thing, the rest of you...well i cant say, but tomorrow we will not be allowed to farm as many of us do today, this is sure as shit gonna happen so i would start getting used to a world with no bottled P and synthetic N.

 

[Ecompost]

I'm interested in Bokashi. I compost all the food that I can, but I hear Bokashi can handle all the things compost can't like meat and dairy, is that correct? I also want to turn my outdoor compost pile into an indoor worm bin, but I don't want it to smell. So I would put it thru the Bokashi bin first and then send that thru the worm bin right? As of right now I don't get enough castings produced since I don't have many inputs for my pile. I want to find some cheap grain or whatever works best/fastest for good castings.

Bokashi can make your shit work mate. no joke, there is very little LAB have not learned to manage. This is the reality of life in a single cellular form, or as part of a fungal mass. Only one microbe in a group needs to learn how to create the right enzyme, to manage xyz new compound. this is why we have MRSA, this is why we have bacteria that are non treatable with contemporary controls. Only a single fungal tip needs to locate the right enzyme to enable to entire colony to start to see something that might have been harmful, as a new food source. until we get our heads around this, we will continue to grow super bugs that will continue to wipe out our economy and our lives.

i recommend Paul Stamets to those of you wishing to go deeper in to the potential of fungus and how understanding mycology is critical for human survival. how it can help us learn more about how to organize our worlds in to more efficient forms, how to re-mediate the areas we have over polluted, how to be better humans. We are after all, nothing short of walking fungus ourselves :)

 

[oldskol4evr]

its good to go mate, but EM-1 is different to IMO, IMO is localized and can not be brought but from a very local supplier. IMO requires you collect the microbes from soil samples in your locale. Activating EM-1 mimics IMO#1 - IMO#2
You can then use IMO#1 as a basis for other applications, it has a chain moving from #1-4, each one adding a process. IMO is not LAB, EM-1 is really, but you can make LAB while making IMO#1, in fact you should, it reduces waste and maximizes economy.
You can find guides from a dude on Youtube here

EM is a blend of beneficial microorganisms developed by Teruo Higa, a professor at the University of the Ryukyu in Japan. These microorganisms improve the health of the soil, the plants, water and humans by breaking down organic matter in the soil, fixing nitrogen from the air, and feeding and protecting plants and animals. The organisms included are primarily yeast and pro-biotic photosynthetic bacteria and lactic acid bacteria. Buying EM is quite expensive, and you actually can make yourself at very minimal cost.

In Asia, they even further process the EM into 4 types of EM (EM1, EM2, EM3 and EM4) and become much more effective and best depending what you will use the EM for. Here is simple way to make your own EM.
EM1 is the original trademark product and contains a group of bacteria primarily lactic acid bacteria (lactic acid produced in metabolism), yeast, and photosynthetic bacteria. EM1 contains only three types of microorganisms in ideal proportions.
EM2 is a mixture of more microorganisms, which is about 10 types and 80 species. Microorganisms, like many in EM1, also exist together as a consortium. The main microbes that exist in the EM2 is a photosynthetic bacteria, fungi, yeasts or molds, and so on. Made in liquid culture medium with pH 7 and stored at pH 8.5. The population of microorganisms in the solution is about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM3 consists of approximately 90% of bacteria photosynthesis and the rest are of other microorganisms. EM3 was cultured and stored at pH 8.5. Microorganism population in the fluid is also about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM4 consisted of 90% Lactobacillus spp. and microorganisms that produce lactic acid more. EM is made by culture in liquid medium was acidic pH of 4.5. The number of microorganisms retained the same as above, ie 1 billion per gram of fluid.
That’s the main difference between EM1, EM2, EM3, and EM4. So in principle, the differences caused by the content of microorganisms of each type of EM is. The one that mostly used in Asia to boost farming and fisheries is the EM4.
Materials:
- Vegetables waste, especially beans
- Fruit skin peels (papaya, banana, rambutan, mango, etc..)
- Cheap Bran
- Brown sugar
- Rice water (the water you use to wash rice before you cook it)
Method:
- Mixed vegetable waste, fruit peels and bran. Place the instance in a bucket or container. Close and stir occasionally, leave for one week to rot and then it become EM (EM1). EM stands for Effective microorganisms that will accelerate the composting process.
- EM1 liquid waste is mixed with vegetable and fruit peels. Then keep again for a week. It will develop a new liquid called EM2.
- EM2 fluid mixed with bran, brown sugar and rice water and keep for about a week, it will become EM3.
- Lets stand for about another week without adding anything. It will be EM4.

its good to go mate, but EM-1 is different to IMO, IMO is localized and can not be brought but from a very local supplier. IMO requires you collect the microbes from soil samples in your locale. Activating EM-1 mimics IMO#1 - IMO#2
You can then use IMO#1 as a basis for other applications, it has a chain moving from #1-4, each one adding a process. IMO is not LAB, EM-1 is really, but you can make LAB while making IMO#1, in fact you should, it reduces waste and maximizes economy.
You can find guides from a dude on Youtube here

EM is a blend of beneficial microorganisms developed by Teruo Higa, a professor at the University of the Ryukyu in Japan. These microorganisms improve the health of the soil, the plants, water and humans by breaking down organic matter in the soil, fixing nitrogen from the air, and feeding and protecting plants and animals. The organisms included are primarily yeast and pro-biotic photosynthetic bacteria and lactic acid bacteria. Buying EM is quite expensive, and you actually can make yourself at very minimal cost.

In Asia, they even further process the EM into 4 types of EM (EM1, EM2, EM3 and EM4) and become much more effective and best depending what you will use the EM for. Here is simple way to make your own EM.
EM1 is the original trademark product and contains a group of bacteria primarily lactic acid bacteria (lactic acid produced in metabolism), yeast, and photosynthetic bacteria. EM1 contains only three types of microorganisms in ideal proportions.
EM2 is a mixture of more microorganisms, which is about 10 types and 80 species. Microorganisms, like many in EM1, also exist together as a consortium. The main microbes that exist in the EM2 is a photosynthetic bacteria, fungi, yeasts or molds, and so on. Made in liquid culture medium with pH 7 and stored at pH 8.5. The population of microorganisms in the solution is about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM3 consists of approximately 90% of bacteria photosynthesis and the rest are of other microorganisms. EM3 was cultured and stored at pH 8.5. Microorganism population in the fluid is also about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM4 consisted of 90% Lactobacillus spp. and microorganisms that produce lactic acid more. EM is made by culture in liquid medium was acidic pH of 4.5. The number of microorganisms retained the same as above, ie 1 billion per gram of fluid.
That’s the main difference between EM1, EM2, EM3, and EM4. So in principle, the differences caused by the content of microorganisms of each type of EM is. The one that mostly used in Asia to boost farming and fisheries is the EM4.
Materials:
- Vegetables waste, especially beans
- Fruit skin peels (papaya, banana, rambutan, mango, etc..)
- Cheap Bran
- Brown sugar
- Rice water (the water you use to wash rice before you cook it)
Method:
- Mixed vegetable waste, fruit peels and bran. Place the instance in a bucket or container. Close and stir occasionally, leave for one week to rot and then it become EM (EM1). EM stands for Effective microorganisms that will accelerate the composting process.
- EM1 liquid waste is mixed with vegetable and fruit peels. Then keep again for a week. It will develop a new liquid called EM2.
- EM2 fluid mixed with bran, brown sugar and rice water and keep for about a week, it will become EM3.
- Lets stand for about another week without adding anything. It will be EM4.

(Source http://boboy.net/2012/01/make-your-own-em-effective-microorganisms/ )

its good to go mate, but EM-1 is different to IMO, IMO is localized and can not be brought but from a very local supplier. IMO requires you collect the microbes from soil samples in your locale. Activating EM-1 mimics IMO#1 - IMO#2
You can then use IMO#1 as a basis for other applications, it has a chain moving from #1-4, each one adding a process. IMO is not LAB, EM-1 is really, but you can make LAB while making IMO#1, in fact you should, it reduces waste and maximizes economy.
You can find guides from a dude on Youtube here

EM is a blend of beneficial microorganisms developed by Teruo Higa, a professor at the University of the Ryukyu in Japan. These microorganisms improve the health of the soil, the plants, water and humans by breaking down organic matter in the soil, fixing nitrogen from the air, and feeding and protecting plants and animals. The organisms included are primarily yeast and pro-biotic photosynthetic bacteria and lactic acid bacteria. Buying EM is quite expensive, and you actually can make yourself at very minimal cost.

In Asia, they even further process the EM into 4 types of EM (EM1, EM2, EM3 and EM4) and become much more effective and best depending what you will use the EM for. Here is simple way to make your own EM.
EM1 is the original trademark product and contains a group of bacteria primarily lactic acid bacteria (lactic acid produced in metabolism), yeast, and photosynthetic bacteria. EM1 contains only three types of microorganisms in ideal proportions.
EM2 is a mixture of more microorganisms, which is about 10 types and 80 species. Microorganisms, like many in EM1, also exist together as a consortium. The main microbes that exist in the EM2 is a photosynthetic bacteria, fungi, yeasts or molds, and so on. Made in liquid culture medium with pH 7 and stored at pH 8.5. The population of microorganisms in the solution is about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM3 consists of approximately 90% of bacteria photosynthesis and the rest are of other microorganisms. EM3 was cultured and stored at pH 8.5. Microorganism population in the fluid is also about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM4 consisted of 90% Lactobacillus spp. and microorganisms that produce lactic acid more. EM is made by culture in liquid medium was acidic pH of 4.5. The number of microorganisms retained the same as above, ie 1 billion per gram of fluid.
That’s the main difference between EM1, EM2, EM3, and EM4. So in principle, the differences caused by the content of microorganisms of each type of EM is. The one that mostly used in Asia to boost farming and fisheries is the EM4.
Materials:
- Vegetables waste, especially beans
- Fruit skin peels (papaya, banana, rambutan, mango, etc..)
- Cheap Bran
- Brown sugar
- Rice water (the water you use to wash rice before you cook it)
Method:
- Mixed vegetable waste, fruit peels and bran. Place the instance in a bucket or container. Close and stir occasionally, leave for one week to rot and then it become EM (EM1). EM stands for Effective microorganisms that will accelerate the composting process.
- EM1 liquid waste is mixed with vegetable and fruit peels. Then keep again for a week. It will develop a new liquid called EM2.
- EM2 fluid mixed with bran, brown sugar and rice water and keep for about a week, it will become EM3.
- Lets stand for about another week without adding anything. It will be EM4.

(Source http://boboy.net/2012/01/make-your-own-em-effective-microorganisms/ )

(Sour

its good to go mate, but EM-1 is different to IMO, IMO is localized and can not be brought but from a very local supplier. IMO requires you collect the microbes from soil samples in your locale. Activating EM-1 mimics IMO#1 - IMO#2
You can then use IMO#1 as a basis for other applications, it has a chain moving from #1-4, each one adding a process. IMO is not LAB, EM-1 is really, but you can make LAB while making IMO#1, in fact you should, it reduces waste and maximizes economy.
You can find guides from a dude on Youtube here

EM is a blend of beneficial microorganisms developed by Teruo Higa, a professor at the University of the Ryukyu in Japan. These microorganisms improve the health of the soil, the plants, water and humans by breaking down organic matter in the soil, fixing nitrogen from the air, and feeding and protecting plants and animals. The organisms included are primarily yeast and pro-biotic photosynthetic bacteria and lactic acid bacteria. Buying EM is quite expensive, and you actually can make yourself at very minimal cost.

In Asia, they even further process the EM into 4 types of EM (EM1, EM2, EM3 and EM4) and become much more effective and best depending what you will use the EM for. Here is simple way to make your own EM.
EM1 is the original trademark product and contains a group of bacteria primarily lactic acid bacteria (lactic acid produced in metabolism), yeast, and photosynthetic bacteria. EM1 contains only three types of microorganisms in ideal proportions.
EM2 is a mixture of more microorganisms, which is about 10 types and 80 species. Microorganisms, like many in EM1, also exist together as a consortium. The main microbes that exist in the EM2 is a photosynthetic bacteria, fungi, yeasts or molds, and so on. Made in liquid culture medium with pH 7 and stored at pH 8.5. The population of microorganisms in the solution is about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM3 consists of approximately 90% of bacteria photosynthesis and the rest are of other microorganisms. EM3 was cultured and stored at pH 8.5. Microorganism population in the fluid is also about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM4 consisted of 90% Lactobacillus spp. and microorganisms that produce lactic acid more. EM is made by culture in liquid medium was acidic pH of 4.5. The number of microorganisms retained the same as above, ie 1 billion per gram of fluid.
That’s the main difference between EM1, EM2, EM3, and EM4. So in principle, the differences caused by the content of microorganisms of each type of EM is. The one that mostly used in Asia to boost farming and fisheries is the EM4.
Materials:
- Vegetables waste, especially beans
- Fruit skin peels (papaya, banana, rambutan, mango, etc..)
- Cheap Bran
- Brown sugar
- Rice water (the water you use to wash rice before you cook it)
Method:
- Mixed vegetable waste, fruit peels and bran. Place the instance in a bucket or container. Close and stir occasionally, leave for one week to rot and then it become EM (EM1). EM stands for Effective microorganisms that will accelerate the composting process.
- EM1 liquid waste is mixed with vegetable and fruit peels. Then keep again for a week. It will develop a new liquid called EM2.
- EM2 fluid mixed with bran, brown sugar and rice water and keep for about a week, it will become EM3.
- Lets stand for about another week without adding anything. It will be EM4.

(Source http://boboy.net/2012/01/make-your-own-em-effective-microorganisms/ )

ive
ce http://boboy.net/2012/01/make-your-own-em-effective-microorganisms/ )

ive watched chris whole series and thats how i make all my stuff

 

[oldskol4evr]

we set up a system to do this Esti mate :) It is important we begin to understand what waste really is. No better place than to start with kids. if we took all the scientists in the world, stopped them all and said, hey lets all study soil, we still would not have enough minds to understand it, nor would we get close in my life time. There is no time to sit idle in my opinion. We must arm tomorrows farmers with the skills to live in a world where Nitrogen and Phosphorous use is strictly regulated and controlled. Those of you BOX clients, are already ahead of the coming regulation and need not change a thing, the rest of you...well i cant say, but tomorrow we will not be allowed to farm as many of us do today, this is sure as shit gonna happen so i would start getting used to a world with no bottled P and synthetic N.

i agree

 

[oldskol4evr]

its good to go mate, but EM-1 is different to IMO, IMO is localized and can not be brought but from a very local supplier. IMO requires you collect the microbes from soil samples in your locale. Activating EM-1 mimics IMO#1 - IMO#2
You can then use IMO#1 as a basis for other applications, it has a chain moving from #1-4, each one adding a process. IMO is not LAB, EM-1 is really, but you can make LAB while making IMO#1, in fact you should, it reduces waste and maximizes economy.
You can find guides from a dude on Youtube here

EM is a blend of beneficial microorganisms developed by Teruo Higa, a professor at the University of the Ryukyu in Japan. These microorganisms improve the health of the soil, the plants, water and humans by breaking down organic matter in the soil, fixing nitrogen from the air, and feeding and protecting plants and animals. The organisms included are primarily yeast and pro-biotic photosynthetic bacteria and lactic acid bacteria. Buying EM is quite expensive, and you actually can make yourself at very minimal cost.

In Asia, they even further process the EM into 4 types of EM (EM1, EM2, EM3 and EM4) and become much more effective and best depending what you will use the EM for. Here is simple way to make your own EM.
EM1 is the original trademark product and contains a group of bacteria primarily lactic acid bacteria (lactic acid produced in metabolism), yeast, and photosynthetic bacteria. EM1 contains only three types of microorganisms in ideal proportions.
EM2 is a mixture of more microorganisms, which is about 10 types and 80 species. Microorganisms, like many in EM1, also exist together as a consortium. The main microbes that exist in the EM2 is a photosynthetic bacteria, fungi, yeasts or molds, and so on. Made in liquid culture medium with pH 7 and stored at pH 8.5. The population of microorganisms in the solution is about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM3 consists of approximately 90% of bacteria photosynthesis and the rest are of other microorganisms. EM3 was cultured and stored at pH 8.5. Microorganism population in the fluid is also about 10 (9) or 1 billion cells per gram of fluid.
EM4 consisted of 90% Lactobacillus spp. and microorganisms that produce lactic acid more. EM is made by culture in liquid medium was acidic pH of 4.5. The number of microorganisms retained the same as above, ie 1 billion per gram of fluid.
That’s the main difference between EM1, EM2, EM3, and EM4. So in principle, the differences caused by the content of microorganisms of each type of EM is. The one that mostly used in Asia to boost farming and fisheries is the EM4.
Materials:
- Vegetables waste, especially beans
- Fruit skin peels (papaya, banana, rambutan, mango, etc..)
- Cheap Bran
- Brown sugar
- Rice water (the water you use to wash rice before you cook it)
Method:
- Mixed vegetable waste, fruit peels and bran. Place the instance in a bucket or container. Close and stir occasionally, leave for one week to rot and then it become EM (EM1). EM stands for Effective microorganisms that will accelerate the composting process.
- EM1 liquid waste is mixed with vegetable and fruit peels. Then keep again for a week. It will develop a new liquid called EM2.
- EM2 fluid mixed with bran, brown sugar and rice water and keep for about a week, it will become EM3.
- Lets stand for about another week without adding anything. It will be EM4.

(Source http://boboy.net/2012/01/make-your-own-em-effective-microorganisms/ )

that is great info bro,ive watched all chris trumps videos and this is how im making my stuff,the ohn is gonna be a doozy,shit a case of vodca before it done,lmao

 

[Ceveres]

Bokashi can make your shit work mate. no joke, there is very little LAB have not learned to manage. This is the reality of life in a single cellular form, or as part of a fungal mass. Only one microbe in a group needs to learn how to create the right enzyme, to manage xyz new compound. this is why we have MRSA, this is why we have bacteria that are non treatable with contemporary controls. Only a single fungal tip needs to locate the right enzyme to enable to entire colony to start to see something that might have been harmful, as a new food source. until we get our heads around this, we will continue to grow super bugs that will continue to wipe out our economy and our lives.

i recommend Paul Stamets to those of you wishing to go deeper in to the potential of fungus and how understanding mycology is critical for human survival. how it can help us learn more about how to organize our worlds in to more efficient forms, how to re-mediate the areas we have over polluted, how to be better humans. We are after all, nothing short of walking fungus ourselves :)

Really awesome episode of Joe Rogan, haven't seen that one before.. and that mushroom hat is incredible..haha.. I had no idea the significance of fungi outside of my own psychedelic experiences. I knew of the giant fungal networks, but it's so amazing to learn how significant they are! Thank you, this and the IMO how-to videos made my day very educational lol

 

[Ecompost]

Really awesome episode of Joe Rogan, haven't seen that one before.. and that mushroom hat is incredible..haha.. I had no idea the significance of fungi outside of my own psychedelic experiences. I knew of the giant fungal networks, but it's so amazing to learn how significant they are! Thank you, this and the IMO how-to videos made my day very educational lol

you are welcome, Paul is a personal hero of mine :-)

 

[Ecompost]

that is great info bro,ive watched all chris trumps videos and this is how im making my stuff,the ohn is gonna be a doozy,shit a case of vodca before it done,lmao

hahahahahaha nice work, i wont tell arty, he will be on a plane

 

[Organikz]

@Ceveres
Use a high quality humus source. Skip the line. EM what? Where did that Santa's beard come from? [Humus source here]. that stuff in em1 is what makes organic matter compost. Its in your humus. Save the coin.

Mix compost and grain and throw it down...wam bam...em1

 

[Ceveres]

I got a question. I might have gone overboard but I don't know. Now I'm afraid to plant my clones in this soil mix. I took some Nectar#4 Soil which is prob fine already (here's what's in it)

And I have all these boxes of dry amendments I'm itching to use lmao!
So to this 1.5cf bag of soil I added
-
10cups worm castings
1/2cup diatomatious earth
1cup Alfalfa
1cup neem
1cup kelp meals
Either 1/2 Or 1cup dolomite lime (can't remember)
A bunch of perlite
-
I also have a 0-11-0 sea bird guano but was too nervous to use on small clones, figured I'd add that to whatever soil I up-pot into later. I thought that would be ok but I still did a tester before transplanting them all and it looks like this

Seemed reasonable at the time, but a lot of dumb shit does where you're high lol
What part was over-kill? Or all of it together is?

 

[Organikz]

Yah...that soil should get you to flower. Drop a 1/4 cup kelp or alfalfa meal and 1/2 cup neem meal at flip. Save yo shit.

 

[Organikz]

Coot can explain this perfectly but less is more is the golden rule. Putting more amendment in doesn't make the plant grow faster and doesn't make the nutrient load last longer. You need to build CEC to add nutrients in. You would just be wasting money.

 

[Ceveres]

Yah...that soil should get you to flower. Drop a 1/4 cup kelp or alfalfa meal and 1/2 cup neem meal at flip. Save yo shit.

You mean you think it'll be fine, maybe not for the young clones, but when I up-pot to 5gals mid veg?

 

[Organikz]

Not youngins. Bone meal is a bit hot.

 

[brazel]

I got a question. I might have gone overboard but I don't know. Now I'm afraid to plant my clones in this soil mix. I took some Nectar#4 Soil which is prob fine already (here's what's in it)
View attachment 758713
And I have all these boxes of dry amendments I'm itching to use lmao!
So to this 1.5cf bag of soil I added
-
10cups worm castings
1/2cup diatomatious earth
1cup Alfalfa
1cup neem
1cup kelp meals
Either 1/2 Or 1cup dolomite lime (can't remember)
A bunch of perlite
-
I also have a 0-11-0 sea bird guano but was too nervous to use on small clones, figured I'd add that to whatever soil I up-pot into later. I thought that would be ok but I still did a tester before transplanting them all and it looks like this
View attachment 758714
Seemed reasonable at the time, but a lot of dumb shit does where you're high lol
What part was over-kill? Or all of it together is?

You're heavy on the alfalfa, skip dolomite lime next time, use crushed oyster shell and gypsum. Good move on the guano

 

[brazel]

I got a question. I might have gone overboard but I don't know. Now I'm afraid to plant my clones in this soil mix. I took some Nectar#4 Soil which is prob fine already (here's what's in it)
View attachment 758713
And I have all these boxes of dry amendments I'm itching to use lmao!
So to this 1.5cf bag of soil I added
-
10cups worm castings
1/2cup diatomatious earth
1cup Alfalfa
1cup neem
1cup kelp meals
Either 1/2 Or 1cup dolomite lime (can't remember)
A bunch of perlite
-
I also have a 0-11-0 sea bird guano but was too nervous to use on small clones, figured I'd add that to whatever soil I up-pot into later. I thought that would be ok but I still did a tester before transplanting them all and it looks like this
View attachment 758714
Seemed reasonable at the time, but a lot of dumb shit does where you're high lol
What part was over-kill? Or all of it together is?

On the soil... no point in using spm and coir, no point in using perlite and pumice, apply mycos instead of getting mixed in. No point in using oyster and dolomite, no point to having D.E. mixed in ( silica) but buy Potassium Silicate, if you wanna use a bone meal use fish,