Super Silver Haze *GreenhouseSeed* 4x2

[LoveGrowingIt]

So here's my conundrum. I've been told and read that in an organic soil, you don't need to water to runoff because we don't use salt based nutrition. And we know what happens when salt builds up in the soil, lockout. So not using bottled nutrition I'm baffled as to why I'm going through a lock out at the moment.

I've never heard of not watering till it runs off. It's bad advice. Water slowly so the soil can absorb the water. Do it till there's water dripping out the bottom of the pot. Then don't water again till the soil is dry. To know when to water again, I use a soil moisture meter, but there are other methods. Lifting the pot to get a sense of its weight when wet and dry is easiest. The plant's leaves will also indicate when it needs water.

Are you sure it's lockout? What are you using for nutrients? (Sorry, I haven't been following your thread.) I think the necrosis of the leaf tips might be a potassium deficiency.

When growing organically, the pH of the soil usually isn't a concern. I haven't checked mine in years. It only matters when using synthetic nutrients. Organic growing means the microorganisms feed the plant and we feed them. Have you added any products that have mycorrhizae?

Do you know what's causing the white spots on the leaves? I just got hit with spider mites, so I'm seeing them everywhere I look. Those spots resemble spider mite damage. The best way I know of to find out if you have them is to cut off a leaf with the spots and then look at the underside with a magnifier. A jeweler's loupe makes the mites, eggs and webbing easy to see.

Quick note, I did turn the humidifier off couple days ago, just turned it back on, see if we can slow this down with that.

Spider mites like hot and dry conditions. If you have them, keeping the climate cool and moist will slow their progress. It won't get rid of them, though.

 

[Week4Bytch]

I've never heard of not watering till it runs off. It's bad advice. Water slowly so the soil can absorb the water. Do it till there's water dripping out the bottom of the pot. Then don't water again till the soil is dry. To know when to water again, I use a soil moisture meter, but there are other methods. Lifting the pot to get a sense of its weight when wet and dry is easiest. The plant's leaves will also indicate when it needs water.

(first off thanks for the reply, much appreciated, I could use the help right now) I usually water 10% of the pots volume, which would be a gallon of water. It's never run off till this last watering. Your not the first to suggest that to me, think I'll need to start doing that. I use a moisture meter to let me know when to water. Having my pots under s scrog net won't let me pick them up, and 10 gallon pots are heavy.

Are you sure it's lockout? What are you using for nutrients? (Sorry, I haven't been following your thread.) I think the necrosis of the leaf tips might be a potassium deficiency.

No I'm not sure to be honest, I was told it was a nutrient lockout, so maybe just freakn out a bit here. I use Craft Blend from Build A Soil and another dry amendment that's a 2-5-5 ratio, dry amendments mostly and an occasional bottled kelp. I do have some bottled potassium that's organic friendly to my understanding. I started using this bottle called Mammoth P. Supposed to boost Phosphorus uptake. Microbes in a bottle.

Have you added any products that have mycorrhizae?

Only on the initial transplant, my understanding is it will grow and multiply. I usually drop Mykos in the area of the transplant.

Do you know what's causing the white spots on the leaves? I just got hit with spider mites, so I'm seeing them everywhere I look. Those spots resemble spider mite damage. The best way I know of to find out if you have them is to cut off a leaf with the spots and then look at the underside with a magnifier. A jeweler's loupe makes the mites, eggs and webbing easy to see.

Oh I hope not, I'll take a real close look today during my lunch, thanks for the suggestion. My big problem is Fungus Gnats...

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

(first off thanks for the reply, much appreciated, I could use the help right now) I usually water 10% of the pots volume, which would be a gallon of water. It's never run off till this last watering. Your not the first to suggest that to me, think I'll need to start doing that. I use a moisture meter to let me know when to water. Having my pots under s scrog net won't let me pick them up, and 10 gallon pots are heavy.

I don't pick up my pots. I just use the meter and watch the leaves. The humidity sensor helps, too. I'm using 5-gallon pots that take about a gallon of water. It becomes predictable.

No I'm not sure to be honest, I was told it was a nutrient lockout, so maybe just freakn out a bit here. I use Craft Blend from Build A Soil and another dry amendment that's a 2-5-5 ratio, dry amendments mostly and an occasional bottled kelp. I do have some bottled potassium that's organic friendly to my understanding. I started using this bottle called Mammoth P. Supposed to boost Phosphorus uptake. Microbes in a bottle.

I'm not familiar with those nutes, but what you're doing sounds good.

Only on the initial transplant, my understanding is it will grow and multiply. I usually drop Mykos in the area of the transplant.

Yep! They should grow. I use Mykos, too.

Oh I hope not, I'll take a real close look today during my lunch, thanks for the suggestion.

I hope not, too. They're awful. I'm fighting them now and have a thread about it.

My big problem is Fungus Gnats...

I have those, too. They tend to like soils with wood chips, like Happy Frog.

I've found several ways to fight them. I clip some of those yellow sticky things to the side of the pots. I spray them with a mix of 3% hydrogen peroxide and water. I also sprinkle diatomaceous earth on the soil. Timing is important, too. Their eggs hatch about a day after watering, so that's a good time for the H2O2 spray. It kills them on contact, so I spray them when I see them. When the top of the soil dries after watering, I add the DE. I drilled holes in the top of an old jelly jar and use that to sprinkle the DE.

 

[Week4Bytch]

it's either a lockout or a deficiency .
flip a coin?

 

[Week4Bytch]

I don't pick up my pots. I just use the meter and watch the leaves. The humidity sensor helps, too. I'm using 5-gallon pots that take about a gallon of water. It becomes predictable.


I'm not familiar with those nutes, but what you're doing sounds good.


Yep! They should grow. I use Mykos, too.


I hope not, too. They're awful. I'm fighting them now and have a thread about it.


I have those, too. They tend to like soils with wood chips, like Happy Frog.

I've found several ways to fight them. I clip some of those yellow sticky things to the side of the pots. I spray them with a mix of 3% hydrogen peroxide and water. I also sprinkle diatomaceous earth on the soil. Timing is important, too. Their eggs hatch about a day after watering, so that's a good time for the H2O2 spray. It kills them on contact, so I spray them when I see them. When the top of the soil dries after watering, I add the DE. I drilled holes in the top of an old jelly jar and use that to sprinkle the DE.

looked under one leaf with a loupe and there along the edge was some very small white balls, about the size of the top of a pin. Is that Spider Mites? Never seen them before or know much about them.

 

[Itscheese94]

I seemed to have been overdoing it with the kelp and other amendments, The SIlver Haze is going through a lockout. pH of the soil checks out at 6.2, it's in between the suggested area of 6-7pH for soil. So here's my conundrum. I've been told and read that in an organic soil, you don't need to water to runoff because we don't use salt based nutrition. And we know what happens when salt builds up in the soil, lockout. So not using bottled nutrition I'm baffled as to why I'm going through a lock out at the moment. All I can think of at the moment is the high nitrogen problem I was having in VEG. Per the list below excess nitrogen will block out calcium and phosphorus. A salt build up will block out almost everything.

View attachment 2027593

Just to try something I watered this morning to runoff. Took 2 gallons of water to get me some runoff out of the pot. I used my wet vac to vacuum the water from the drip pan. I'm sorry guys I'm trying here, maybe we can right the ship, still got 6 weeks to go, I've had grows where all the leaves had falln and some buds were still there to harvest so keeping my head high here.

View attachment 2027608View attachment 2027607

looks like a nutrient build up to me.

 

[Week4Bytch]

looks like a nutrient build up to me.

I'm wondering if adding the cal mag did it, I wasn't using much of it really. So little dumbfounded. Maybe the Cal MAg with the Langbeinite wasn't a good mix. Langbeinite is heavy with the Magnesium.

 

[Itscheese94]

I'm wondering if adding the cal mag did it, I wasn't using much of it really. So little dumbfounded. Maybe the Cal MAg with the Langbeinite wasn't a good mix. Langbeinite is heavy with the Magnesium.

yeh if its a inorganic calmag. could of burned straight away. if soils nutrient levels where already maxed out.

 

[Novaracer69]

I am no pro but I would think that a flush with gypsum water would help alot.

 

[Week4Bytch]

I am no pro but I would think that a flush with gypsum water would help alot.

I'm hoping this flush I did yesterday helped. I added a little of the Bushdoctor Sledgehammer

( Derived from Saponin, an extract from the Yucca Schidigera plant)

it's just a natural water surfactant

( substance such as a detergent that, when added to a liquid, reduces its surface tension, thereby increasing its spreading and wetting properties)

but.... yes the gypsum , it does leach excess magnesium out of the soil..so yes, an excellent idea... just that I'm petrified of excess calcium right now too..should I be?

If I go with the gypsum, teaspoon to the gallon?

 

[Week4Bytch]

Alright..and now we are dealing with spider mites too... se la vi... got my hands full tomorrow.

 

[Novaracer69]

I'm hoping this flush I did yesterday helped. I added a little of the Bushdoctor Sledgehammer

( Derived from Saponin, an extract from the Yucca Schidigera plant)

it's just a natural water surfactant

( substance such as a detergent that, when added to a liquid, reduces its surface tension, thereby increasing its spreading and wetting properties)

but.... yes the gypsum , it does leach excess magnesium out of the soil..so yes, an excellent idea... just that I'm petrified of excess calcium right now too..should I be?

If I go with the gypsum, teaspoon to the gallon?

1 tablespoon per gallon for soil drenching.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

looked under one leaf with a loupe and there along the edge was some very small white balls, about the size of the top of a pin. Is that Spider Mites? Never seen them before or know much about them.

Yes. I'm sure you have spider mites. They'll weaken and eventually kill your plants, so be careful making changes right now.

It looks like you have an advanced infestation. For that, I would use predatory mites. I'm not sure Spinosad kills the eggs. That's the hard part. These mites reproduce rapidly. It's their superpower. They'll even evolve and become resistant. So, they must be destroyed completely.

I'll post again in my spider mite thread after the light comes on in two hours. As of last night, I didn't see any new damage. The eggs can hatch after three days, so I'll have to keep checking and treating the plants and the tent.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

Also, be careful not to spread spider mites and their eggs. The eggs can go dormant for a long time. Then they'll hatch when conditions are right.

 

[Week4Bytch]

Yes. I'm sure you have spider mites. They'll weaken and eventually kill your plants, so be careful making changes right now.

It looks like you have an advanced infestation. For that, I would use predatory mites. I'm not sure Spinosad kills the eggs. That's the hard part. These mites reproduce rapidly. It's their superpower. They'll even evolve and become resistant. So, they must be destroyed completely.

I'll post again in my spider mite thread after the light comes on in two hours. As of last night, I didn't see any new damage. The eggs can hatch after three days, so I'll have to keep checking and treating the plants and the tent.

we're at 115 degrees till next Thursday.. gonna be hard getting anything alive delivered. Looks like I'm spraying these guys every day till then ... wish me luck guys.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

we're at 115 degrees till next Thursday.. gonna be hard getting anything alive delivered. Looks like I'm spraying these guys every day till then ... wish me luck guys.

I used one of those garden sprayers with a pump pressure tank and a hose for the sprayer. I used a 1 to 3 ratio of 91% isopropyl alcohol with water. I poured a bottle of alcohol into the sprayer. Then I used the empty alcohol bottle to add three bottles of water. I have enough of the mix to spray several more times.

The hose sprayer makes it easy to spray under the leaves. Alcohol kills mites and their eggs. Spraying with water alone can help by knocking the mites off the leaves. So, this works two ways. The humidity in the tent peaked at 81% for a while, and that helps, too, because the mites don't like high humidity.

I also sprayed the inside of the tent and any place the mites or their eggs could hide.

The plants didn't seem to be affected by the spray or the humidity. They're in the fifth week of flower, so humidity in the buds isn't a major concern yet.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

we're at 115 degrees till next Thursday..

Ouch! That's too hot for me! I hope you can stay cool.

Is there a local garden or hydro store that sells predator mites?

 

[Week4Bytch]

I used one of those garden sprayers with a pump pressure tank and a hose for the sprayer. I used a 1 to 3 ratio of 91% isopropyl alcohol with water. I poured a bottle of alcohol into the sprayer. Then I used the empty alcohol bottle to add three bottles of water. I have enough of the mix to spray several more times.

The hose sprayer makes it easy to spray under the leaves. Alcohol kills mites and their eggs. Spraying with water alone can help by knocking the mites off the leaves. So, this works two ways. The humidity in the tent peaked at 81% for a while, and that helps, too, because the mites don't like high humidity.

I also sprayed the inside of the tent and any place the mites or their eggs could hide.

The plants didn't seem to be affected by the spray or the humidity. They're in the fifth week of flower, so humidity in the buds isn't a major concern yet.

I was gonna ask about the alcohol possibly effecting the bud sites .. because that's how we clean the sticky icky off our scissors. What's it gonna do to the trichomes on the plant?

 

[Week4Bytch]

Ouch! That's too hot for me! I hope you can stay cool.

Is there a local garden or hydro store that sells predator mites?

no, it would be nice if they did.

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

I was gonna ask about the alcohol possibly effecting the bud sites .. because that's how we clean the sticky icky off our scissors. What's it gonna do to the trichomes on the plant?

Good question. As far as I know, it's not a problem. Alcohol evaporates quickly and doesn't leave a residue. It doesn't seem to bother the plant.

The thing with spider mites is that it's easier to kill the mites than it is to kill the eggs. Alcohol kills both. So, whatever you use, make sure it kills the eggs. They can go dormant for a long time and then decide to hatch. Then we're back at the beginning again. So, after harvest, it's good advice to sanitize the tent before starting the next grow.