The History of OG Kush

[Wisher619]

Trainwreck is great. Especially this cross Of trainwreck with NYC diesel that I tried back in 06. That one was one of my favorites. And I definitely remember that road kill skunk. Last time I had it was in high school. If you know where to get it, please share.

I wish I knew where to get that RKS

you know....I would like to know why people think that someone actually coined OG Kush....
no matter the name it has been around for ever

remember Bubba stated that the OG was from a bag seed he purchased in Florida
meaning someone was growing it long before he supposedly brought it from Florida
which probably originated in Cali
along with Dog Bud aka Chem
and NL which has been around forever

I have seen pictures of plants from the 70's that look like OG

 

[Judaz]

I wish I knew where to get that RKS

you know....I would like to know why people think that someone actually coined OG Kush....
no matter the name it has been around for ever

remember Bubba stated that the OG was from a bag seed he purchased in Florida
meaning someone was growing it long before he supposedly brought it from Florida
which probably originated in Cali
along with Dog Bud aka Chem
and NL which has been around forever

I have seen pictures of plants from the 70's that look like OG

That's true it's been around forever especially back then when there were more strains like og kush around. I guess the reason why they called it og kush was to differentiate it from all the other kush like strains. If you have sampled the real og which by the way it's only available in clone form and any og kush that you get from seed today is not the real deal you would notice the brilliance in the high and smoke along with the smell and taste. If grown right it's not this lemony sour smell people describe it as but a more earthy piney sweet smell too it. It can be however more lemony sour depending on the environment and nutes used to grow it. But the high is what's most brilliant. You get this feeling of well being in your body almost like a narcotic that comes with euphoric energy and makes you creative and talkative.

 

[friend]

I'all take some pics of the vengative stage when I go to my spot tomorrow but here is a flowering pic of week 8 I had on my phone.

Thanks for sharing ! very impressive , thanks i would like to see veg and flower
Og is my all-time favorite stain.
I will be harvesting my first round with Og
here in a couple weeks , i will be sure to share pics
Thanks for sharing :happy:

 

[Judaz]

The real OG Kush, clone only strain not from any seed company in vegative form @friend

Note: it will produce 3 blade leaves with a curl when it's not grown right and has a deficiency but dial her in and she produces beautiful leaves.

When I first started growing og kush I used to get 1-1.25 pounds per 1000 watts on analog ballasts. Every one claimed how it was a bad yielder and how you couldn't pull 1 gram per watt on this strain. I've broken all these records over my 18 years of growing her. The secrete comes down to light intensity, proper environment, the right canopy structure with proper plant height and a solid dialed in technique using the old school nutrient program used by the best San Fernando Valley growers where OG Kush was made famous.

I'll post later my flowering setup and the secrete to pulling 2+ pounds per light on 1000 watt digital ballast with hortilux bulbs and how you can pull 3+ pounds per 1000 watt Gavitas.

 

[friend]

The real OG Kush, clone only strain not from any seed company in vegative form @friend

Note: it will produce 3 blade leaves with a curl when it's not grown right and has a deficiency but dial her in and she produces beautiful leaves.

When I first started growing og kush I used to get 1-1.25 pounds per 1000 watts on analog ballasts. Every one claimed how it was a bad yielder and how you couldn't pull 1 gram per watt on this strain. I've broken all these records over my 18 years of growing her. The secrete comes down to light intensity, proper environment, the right canopy structure with proper plant height and a solid dialed in technique using the old school nutrient program used by the best San Fernando Valley growers where OG Kush was made famous.

I'll post later my flowering setup and the secrete to pulling 2+ pounds per light on 1000 watt digital ballast with hortilux bulbs and how you can pull 3+ pounds per 1000 watt Gavitas.

OMG ! you just blew my mind .
Beautiful set up, thanks so much for sharing ,
In veg our plants look very similar if not identical ,
You certainly know this strain way more than i do
I appreciate you're input because i have my hands full , diffenatly one of the most difficult strains i have ever grown also while being the most rewarding .
@Judaz ,
you're a tru Og . Thanks for sharing :happy:

 

[Judaz]

OMG ! you just blew my mind .
Beautiful set up, thanks so much for sharing ,
In veg our plants look very similar if not identical ,
You certainly know this strain way more than i do
I appreciate you're input because i have my hands full , diffenatly one of the most difficult strains i have ever grown also while being the most rewarding .
@Judaz ,
you're a tru Og . Thanks for sharing :happy:

In fact many og kush S1's look very similar. Especially the ones that tend to be more on the sativa side like my cut and my buddy Luke Skywalker's cut which is an S1 of my cut. A S1 seed is made by self pollinating a female to create seeds. You can use gibberellic acid or silver sulphate to reverse sex of a plant to male, collect the pollen, and pollinate a female plant. The resulting seeds will be female. Many other OG S1 cuts will look the same. The only way you can tell if it's the real deal is by smoking it. The richness in taste and flavor is where they all fall short from the original cut. For example my Sky walker og strain (Not the fake one from Reserva Privada seeds) The real S1 one made by Luke Skywalker himself who is now in Colorado, looks identical to my original cut. My friend the old school grower was able to point out a few details on how to differentiate them. For example the real og kush will show purple in the stems sometimes while the skywalker og will not do this. Also the leaves on the real og kush cut are a bit thicker in texture. And the high and punch is a bit stronger as well from the original cut. Don't get me wrong the skywlker og is probably the next best og cuts next to the sfv, ghost og . But I can now tell the difference between them. The Tahoe, Larry and all others are a still good but just a notch under the previous mentioned ones

Here is a pic of my skywalker og.

 

[Judaz]

Most OG kush THC strains tests from 17-22% THC and the average is around 19% However it all depends on the grower. I've seen good growers get 22% - 23% with OG kush. Recently I decided to do a test myself on my original OG cut with one of my typical commercial grows. Given this was not my best grow and I did not grow it to maximize THC content I scored pretty damn good. Well above the average and norm for most og's. So this says a lot about the genetics of my cut in itself. Next I will grow it to attempt to maximize THC content probably do it in soil and not in rockwool and see how much higher I can bring my numbers

 

[Pimples]

Sounds to me we got the resident og kush pro on this site. Good posts. Can we ask you some of your techniques and methods you employ to knock the yields and potency out the park? Youve got my interest for sure. What is the ideal environment for the real deal temp amd humidity wise for veg and flower? Top tie down and prune for alot of flowering node sites? Longer veg? Is it the bitch they say to get cuts to strike roots? You obviously veg in your flower rooms (net trellis) How does it respond to net trellis? What ec or ppm does she like? Coco drip system matter much? Sorry for all the ? but you obviously know what time of day it is with this particular cultivar. Very nice.

 

[Judaz]

How to pull max weight and Quality for OG Kush.

You must have the proper light intensity with the right canopy structure & plant height. You must create a completely sealed controllable environment that controls temperature, humidity and air flow & that is enriched with the proper CO2 levels at the right temperatures. Nutrients are secondary to the above. If you don't have the above dialed in, the your nutrients will not work to their full potential.

Use a strong AC unit for complete control. This is a 5 ton I use for my 10 light Gavita room.

Use a CO2 generator to produce CO2. I prefer this method over hauling in heavy CO2 tanks every week

Use dehumidifiers to control humidity and wall fans to move the air properly. Also use floor fans to move air in the bottom of the canopy. In the wild cannabis won't pay much attention to bud sites that get no proper air flow and light intensity

Use a charcoal filter from the top to remove extra humidity and heat from and to scrub your air once or twice during day cycle.

Use tables with rollers to easily get in to your canopy and make sure to collect the runoff under each table to make sure that ppm and ph are optimal for the week of your flowering cycle. Weeks 1-2 aim for run off ph 6.0-6.4 for nitrogen needed for expansive growth. Weeks 3-4 aim for 5.8-6.0 run off ph to make sure that they get the necessary phosphorus to develop more bud sites. After that you can keep runoff around 6.0 - 6.2. I usually aim for 5.5 ph when mixing my nutes to balance out the rockwool. Sometimes you may need to go a little lower to bring down ph.

Aim to create an even canopy structure, especially when using Gavita lights. When I first used them, I under estimated their power and placed them to close to my tops which caused my buds to get light burn and fox tail. Keep them around 40-42 inches from the tops. For Digital ballast with hortilux bulbs I usually keep them between 18-24 inches from the top of canopy. Preferably closer to 18 if your plants can manage the heat.

Setup:

Digital ballast:
You need a complete sealed environment with CO2 enrichment to pull 1 gram per watt using 1000 watt digital ballasts with HPS hortilux bulbs. Use a 4x4 foot area (16 aquare feet) for each light and use 6-9 plants per light. I like to use 9 per light on a 3-4 week veg cycle. I usually top them twice (I use these cuts to make clones) to create more shoots and don't let your plants get over crowded during veg or else they will stretch. Veg with metal halide bulbs. Start them at 600 watts and then slowly get them to 1000 watts by middle of week 2.

Gavita setup:

Gavitas can nicely light a 24 square foot area per 1000 watts. This room above is a 10 light Gavita Pro setup covering a 240 canopy square foot space. It would take 15 1000 watt digital ballasts to illuminate this same square footage. I do 2+ pounds per light using digital ballast. How do I pull 3+ pounds per light with Gavitas. Well do the math. If I'm covering the same area with 10 gavita lights that I would normally use 15 1000 watt digital ballast and get 2+ pounds per light (30 for 15 lights) Then with 10 gavitas I also pull 30 on the same square footage which makes my numbers go to 3+ pounds per 1000 watt Gavita light.

When you bring them into your flowering room. I always flush the first day and then start with the week 1 mix on the second day. You can use a product like Clearex to flush for this first time or you can use 100 ml of SBA/SBB to flush them as well. Flush them for like 30+ seconds to ensure they are clean for the next days mix.

This is my OG Kush Recipe above that we use in the SFV to grow OG kush. I've actually adjusted to lower ppm's during last 6 weeks to get the best quality. To get best results you must use Super Nutrients SBA and SBB to bring out the best out of OG kush. Most growers over feed OG kush thinking that its a big feeder. Maybe for the indica dominant OG kush types but for the sativa dominant OG kush, it requires much less nutrients than most people give it. When you over feed OG kush, your buds will turn out dark and not lime green like they are suppose to look. When it comes to nutes, remember that less is more. http://www.growweedeasy.com/7-tips-to-growing-top-shelf-buds (Best blog on the net for growing cannabis, in my opinion)

Note: When recirculating do 10 seconds up one way then 10 seconds back the opposite way. This ensures that all your plants get an even ppm mix. I hand water my plants because I enjoy it and get the chance to give them that extra especial attention where I see needs. This is how I make sure that my OG kush buds sit as the top shelf buds for all the dispensaries that carry it.

Note: When you run to waste feed until you see 10-15% runoff

* When you recirculate and give them 20 secs total, this extra watering promotes rapid leaf development, the early use of monster bloom which has high phosphorous helps create more bud sites.

* You can stop recirculating earlier when you feel that your canopy has filled in nicely to your grow space. If you keep recirculating past this point you will get too many leaves which will shade bottom nugs too much and you will have a tough time defoliating all the extra water leaves

*If some shoots start stretching, pinch them by squeezing the stem to slow their growth down. The shoot will stop growing for a few days since the plant needs to repair itself which allows the other shoots to catch up.

*Use nets to build your canopy structure. The low net at 24 inches from the bottom of plant and the top net at 36 inches from the bottom of plant. Aim for plants to be 42 to 48 inches max in height. If most are at max height then add a third level of nets at 44 inches

* When you switch to run to waste and you feed for less time usually 10 seconds this helps rockwool dry up a little to promote flower production, Big Bud which has more potassium helps bulk up your buds

*You need to defoliate the plant after it has finished its rapid growth expansion usually by week 3 because an indoor environment with co2 promotes many leaves that are not needed for flower production

* Never Defoliate a plant that is not healthy or has bugs or pest problems

*Defoliate a plant by removing water leaves to get your lux meter to read at least 5000 lux at all bottoms (No need to lolipop bottoms with this method)

*Your top canopy lux should be around 25,000 - 30,000 lux make sure you find the balance of your light height so that you don't light burn or heat burn your colas which will make them stop growing prematurely

*Regarding flushing. You must track your plants ppm runoff coming from the bottom of the rockwool cube. If the ppm runoff exceeds the nutrient ppm for 2 consecutive days then flush with 200 of cal mag and 100 of carbo load or bud candy when using RO water.

*The goal of the 1st 4 weeks is to develop the proper canopy structure with minimal internode length stretch by keeping the ppm in and ppm runoff in balance. Meaning that the ppm in comes back the same as the ppm runoff. This is not an exact science when you follow a nutrient formula chart. Even with my formula, I need to make adjustments depending on the room and setup. Plants in the middle which receive the most intense light tend to use more nutrients than my tables on the edges near the wall. Use nutrient schedules as a guideline but rely on the ppm and ph run off numbers to plan your next feed. Sometimes I have to flush (Lower the nutrient ppm with cal mag and bud candy or carbo load at low strengths like 250-300 ppm) The reason why I add extra sugars during my flushes is because I defoliate my plants which lowers their ability to produce their own sugars but by supplementing them with extra sugars I compensate for that and get more weight because I get more light to the bottom nugs.

*The goal of the last 6 weeks is to feed your og kush plants where the ppm runoff is slightly lower than the ppm in, this will create a small nutrient strength deficit which your plant will balance by taking it from their own leaf storage. This will make your leaves start to slowly turn lime green and by the end of the round your leaves should be a healthy yellow and not burnt. This technique takes some practice to get used too. If you get in trouble and start losing too many leaves you can foliar spray to help keep them alive. But make sure that you do not have powdery mildew. In fact if you have bugs and or pm then you will not achieve best results. It is normal to lose leaves by weeks 7-9 which helps further add light to those developing bottoms.

Summary:

*The key to pulling weight is light intensity coupled with the right environment with no bugs or PM. Nutrients are secondary to the above factors.

*You need to build a completely sealed environment where you can maintain the right Co2 levels with the right temperatures to get that extra growth. (Canopy temps should be between 82-88. Aim for 85 degrees farenheit

*Make sure you have proper air movement in your room from the top and bottom of the canopy. Use wall fans and floor fans to accomplish this.

*Humidity during flowering should be between 45-55 percent. Aim to have it 50%. Use dehumidifiers in a complete enclosed environment and a charcoal filter that can extract heat and humidity from your room from the ceiling if temps and humidity get too high because of a hot summer day

They key to getting best quality, taste and smell is to start bringing down your plants ppm by week 5 which is contrary to most flowering schedules. The last week flush is not enough to make your buds smell and taste better. You need to slowly bring them down making the leaves turn lime green to a healthy yellow in the end.

My bottoms after defoliating:

View attachment 648719

Quality

This is my OG strain done by another grower using PGR's and high nutrient mixes. It may look ok but the taste, smell and high will not be the same. This is what most growers do. Notice the deep dark green leaves which have excess nitrogen. Giving your plants too much nitrogen in the last few weeks of flowering will cause your buds to lose quality. Sure they may look frosty and crystalized as helll but when you smoke it, you'll notice the chemicals in your throat. Not my preference. These buds here will be sub-par to my buds, and will not be the best of the best of OG Kush. If you have any questions on specifics just hit me up.

 

[Pimples]

How to pull max weight and Quality for OG Kush.

You must have the proper light intensity with the right canopy structure & plant height. You must create a completely sealed controllable environment that controls temperature, humidity and air flow & that is enriched with the proper CO2 levels at the right temperatures. Nutrients are secondary to the above. If you don't have the above dialed in, the your nutrients will not work to their full potential.

Use a strong AC unit for complete control. This is a 5 ton I use for my 10 light Gavita room.
View attachment 648701
Use a CO2 generator to produce CO2. I prefer this method over hauling in heavy CO2 tanks every week
View attachment 648702
Use dehumidifiers to control humidity and wall fans to move the air properly. Also use floor fans to move air in the bottom of the canopy. In the wild cannabis won't pay much attention to bud sites that get no proper air flow and light intensity
View attachment 648704
Use a charcoal filter from the top to remove extra humidity and heat from and to scrub your air once or twice during day cycle.
View attachment 648707
Use tables with rollers to easily get in to your canopy and make sure to collect the runoff under each table to make sure that ppm and ph are optimal for the week of your flowering cycle. Weeks 1-2 aim for run off ph 6.0-6.4 for nitrogen needed for expansive growth. Weeks 3-4 aim for 5.8-6.0 run off ph to make sure that they get the necessary phosphorus to develop more bud sites. After that you can keep runoff around 6.0 - 6.2. I usually aim for 5.5 ph when mixing my nutes to balance out the rockwool. Sometimes you may need to go a little lower to bring down ph.
View attachment 648708

Aim to create an even canopy structure, especially when using Gavita lights. When I first used them, I under estimated their power and placed them to close to my tops which caused my buds to get light burn and fox tail. Keep them around 40-42 inches from the tops. For Digital ballast with hortilux bulbs I usually keep them between 18-24 inches from the top of canopy. Preferably closer to 18 if your plants can manage the heat.
View attachment 648711

Setup:

Digital ballast:
You need a complete sealed environment with CO2 enrichment to pull 1 gram per watt using 1000 watt digital ballasts with HPS hortilux bulbs. Use a 4x4 foot area (16 aquare feet) for each light and use 6-9 plants per light. I like to use 9 per light on a 3-4 week veg cycle. I usually top them twice (I use these cuts to make clones) to create more shoots and don't let your plants get over crowded during veg or else they will stretch. Veg with metal halide bulbs. Start them at 600 watts and then slowly get them to 1000 watts by middle of week 2.

Gavita setup:

Gavitas can nicely light a 24 square foot area per 1000 watts. This room above is a 10 light Gavita Pro setup covering a 240 canopy square foot space. It would take 15 1000 watt digital ballasts to illuminate this same square footage. I do 2+ pounds per light using digital ballast. How do I pull 3+ pounds per light with Gavitas. Well do the math. If I'm covering the same area with 10 gavita lights that I would normally use 15 1000 watt digital ballast and get 2+ pounds per light (30 for 15 lights) Then with 10 gavitas I also pull 30 on the same square footage which makes my numbers go to 3+ pounds per 1000 watt Gavita light.

When you bring them into your flowering room. I always flush the first day and then start with the week 1 mix on the second day. You can use a product like Clearex to flush for this first time or you can use 100 ml of SBA/SBB to flush them as well. Flush them for like 30+ seconds to ensure they are clean for the next days mix.

View attachment 648699

This is my OG Kush Recipe above that we use in the SFV to grow OG kush. I've actually adjusted to lower ppm's during last 6 weeks to get the best quality. To get best results you must use Super Nutrients SBA and SBB to bring out the best out of OG kush. Most growers over feed OG kush thinking that its a big feeder. Maybe for the indica dominant OG kush types but for the sativa dominant OG kush, it requires much less nutrients than most people give it. When you over feed OG kush, your buds will turn out dark and not lime green like they are suppose to look. When it comes to nutes, remember that less is more. http://www.growweedeasy.com/7-tips-to-growing-top-shelf-buds (Best blog on the net for growing cannabis, in my opinion)

Note: When recirculating do 10 seconds up one way then 10 seconds back the opposite way. This ensures that all your plants get an even ppm mix. I hand water my plants because I enjoy it and get the chance to give them that extra especial attention where I see needs. This is how I make sure that my OG kush buds sit as the top shelf buds for all the dispensaries that carry it.

Note: When you run to waste feed until you see 10-15% runoff

* When you recirculate and give them 20 secs total, this extra watering promotes rapid leaf development, the early use of monster bloom which has high phosphorous helps create more bud sites.

* You can stop recirculating earlier when you feel that your canopy has filled in nicely to your grow space. If you keep recirculating past this point you will get too many leaves which will shade bottom nugs too much and you will have a tough time defoliating all the extra water leaves

*If some shoots start stretching, pinch them by squeezing the stem to slow their growth down. The shoot will stop growing for a few days since the plant needs to repair itself which allows the other shoots to catch up.

*Use nets to build your canopy structure. The low net at 24 inches from the bottom of plant and the top net at 36 inches from the bottom of plant. Aim for plants to be 42 to 48 inches max in height. If most are at max height then add a third level of nets at 44 inches

* When you switch to run to waste and you feed for less time usually 10 seconds this helps rockwool dry up a little to promote flower production, Big Bud which has more potassium helps bulk up your buds

*You need to defoliate the plant after it has finished its rapid growth expansion usually by week 3 because an indoor environment with co2 promotes many leaves that are not needed for flower production

* Never Defoliate a plant that is not healthy or has bugs or pest problems

*Defoliate a plant by removing water leaves to get your lux meter to read at least 5000 lux at all bottoms (No need to lolipop bottoms with this method)

*Your top canopy lux should be around 25,000 - 30,000 lux make sure you find the balance of your light height so that you don't light burn or heat burn your colas which will make them stop growing prematurely

*Regarding flushing. You must track your plants ppm runoff coming from the bottom of the rockwool cube. If the ppm runoff exceeds the nutrient runoff for 2 consecutive days then flush with 200 of cal mag and 100 of carbo load or bud candy when using RO water.

*The goal of the 1st 4 weeks is to develop the proper canopy structure with minimal internode length stretch by keeping the ppm in and ppm runoff in balance. Meaning that the ppm in comes back the same as the ppm runoff. This is not an exact science when you follow a nutrient formula chart. Even with my formula, I need to make adjustments depending on the room and setup. Plants in the middle which receive the most intense light tend to use more nutrients than my tables on the edges near the wall. Use nutrient schedules as a guideline but rely on the ppm and ph run off numbers to plan your next feed. Sometimes I have to flush (Lower the nutrient ppm with cal mag and bud candy or carbo load at low strengths like 250-300 ppm) The reason why I add extra sugars during my flushes is because I defoliate my plants which lowers their ability to produce their own sugars but by supplementing them with extra sugars I compensate for that and get more weight because I get more light to the bottom nugs.

*The goal of the last 6 weeks is to feed your og kush plants where the ppm runoff is slightly lower than the ppm in, this will create a small nutrient strength deficit which your plant will balance by taking it from their own leaf storage. This will make your leaves start to slowly turn lime green and by the end of the round your leaves should be a healthy yellow and not burnt. This technique takes some practice to get used too. If you get in trouble and start losing too many leaves you can foliar spray to help keep them alive. But make sure that you do not have powdery mildew. In fact if you have bugs and or pm then you will not achieve best results. It is normal to lose leaves by weeks 7-9 which helps further add light to those developing bottoms.

Summary:

*The key to pulling weight is light intensity coupled with the right environment with no bugs or PM. Nutrients are secondary to the above factors.

*You need to build a completely sealed environment where you can maintain the right Co2 levels with the right temperatures to get that extra growth. (Canopy temps should be between 82-88. Aim for 85 degrees farenheit

*Make sure you have proper air movement in your room from the top and bottom of the canopy. Use wall fans and floor fans to accomplish this.

*Humidity during flowering should be between 45-55 percent. Aim to have it 50%. Use dehumidifiers in a complete enclosed environment and a charcoal filter that can extract heat and humidity from your room from the ceiling if temps and humidity get too high because of a hot summer day

They key to getting best quality, taste and smell is to start bringing down your plants ppm by week 5 which is contrary to most flowering schedules. The last week flush is not enough to make your buds smell and taste better. You need to slowly bring them down making the leaves turn lime green to a healthy yellow in the end.

Bottom nugs after defoliating



View attachment 648719

This definitely needs to be a sticky. Your setup is similar to mine. Except i run 8 Gavita 6/750 flex lamps beacuse of my low basement ceiling. 7 foot. I too run sealed room with a mitsubishi mini split and sante fe classic dehuey controlling atmosphere. A dual tank co2 injector hooked to a ppm controller keeps co2 nice and steady. I also run roller tables with double trellis. Only real difference is i run 2 and 3 gallon root pots of coco coir. Open tube manifold top feed system. I usually run just Canna A & B coco nutrient. The only real additive i stick to is a weekly Nitrozime/fulvic acid foliar spray once a week in veg. You have a nice setup and the real deal og kush. Again....needs to he a sticky on how push generally low yielding strains. Those always seem to be the good ones too.

 

[Pimples]

I see you use sba and sbb super nutes...now i know your legit. Thats an old school brand from WAY back. NICE.

 

[Judaz]

Sounds to me we got the resident og kush pro on this site. Good posts. Can we ask you some of your techniques and methods you employ to knock the yields and potency out the park? Youve got my interest for sure. What is the ideal environment for the real deal temp amd humidity wise for veg and flower? Top tie down and prune for alot of flowering node sites? Longer veg? Is it the bitch they say to get cuts to strike roots? You obviously veg in your flower rooms (net trellis) How does it respond to net trellis? What ec or ppm does she like? Coco drip system matter much? Sorry for all the ? but you obviously know what time of day it is with this particular cultivar. Very nice.

I actually veg in a separate room to minimize down time in my flowering rooms. I veg at 1000 ppm (.5 scale) or 2 ec from clones to end of veg at around 60 % humidity for usually 3-4 weeks. I bring them in at around 15 inches and let them grow into the nets and adjust them to fill in the space properly. As far as flowering I don't go above 2.0 ec with digital ballasts and 2.4 ec using gavitas. Anything above that will hurt my og strain. I've noticed that with Gavitas they can handle a bit higher ec.

 

[Judaz]

@Pimples

The major reason why I pull weight on a low yielding strain like og kush is probably due to my defoliation that I do to get the right amount of lux needed to develop solid bottoms. If I don't do this then I pull 1-5-.175 lbs per 1000 watt digital ballast on a 4x4 space.

 

[Pimples]

Yes...with very intense lamps like double ended hps...you can definitely push ec/ppm levels a tad bit more. Also...when running a super sealed adn dialed room where you can control temps/rh/ co2 by the digit. ...with super intense light and lots of moving air...I noticed that that is the ONLY way adding supplements and additives can really be observed. Most people say additives dont do much. ...because most dont go through the hassle amd expense of running a perfect super dialed in sealed (and clean) room. Its very expensive...and alot of work to do it right.

 

[Pimples]

I have ran all kinds of additives in my room in the last couple years...on many different strains. Most i didnt like the final product because of it. Iam pretty picky. Bloombastic from Atami comes to mind. Oh yes...it DEFINITELY made a difference. Extreme trichome development and super dense buds...but at the expense of taste. Left a chalky metal and fake sweet aftertaste i did not like at all. Like i said...if your room is super dialed...additives can really be observed. But in all reality (i too have been growing fpr a very very long time) its all about the strain. ..lighting...atmosphere and the ability to control it...and canopy management/ manipulation. Nutrients and supplements come a distant second before all the above.

 

[Judaz]

Yes...with very intense lamps like double ended hps...you can definitely push ec/ppm levels a tad bit more. Also...when running a super sealed adn dialed room where you can control temps/rh/ co2 by the digit. ...with super intense light and lots of moving air...I noticed that that is the ONLY way adding supplements and additives can really be observed. Most people say additives dont do much. ...because most dont go through the hassle amd expense of running a perfect super dialed in sealed (and clean) room. Its very expensive...and alot of work to do it right.

I totally agree with you. With the perfect dialed in environment your additives can really flourish. If you don't have the environment you are just wasting your money by adding all the extra additives. I learned to spend the extra cost at first to create the right dialed in environment because I will make it all back plus some with my future dialed in rounds. I've used bloombastic before but did not like the after taste it left.

 

[Pimples]

This thread might go off btw. You just did a play by play and backed it up. Something real pro growers rarely do anymore on the forums.

 

[Wisher619]

it is funny that you say that defoliation is key

I have always said that.....with many strains I believe it to be true

indoors dosnt need all those leafs
you have direct light and you need that light to get to all the bud sights

in the sun people dont really know this
but the sun actually radiates through the leaves hitting all the bud sights
remember the sun puts out a huge range of waves that we cant see from xray waves and beyond
we havnt figured it out yet but certain waves facilitates complete penetration

I have also said for many years to run your strains with as little nutrients as possible
or should I say just enough to sustain them


Light is the food
Nutrients are the building blocks
without light nutrients are useless

good writeup
although that dosnt just go for OG
but really for all growing

 

[Judaz]

So far OG Kush is a bag seed from Florida in the early 90's.

What was those buds that originated the seeds? No one can tell.

Some said it's from the crippy, well my lil investigation have shown me that the crippy I saw have nothing to do with the Original Kush.

Now I have a few questions for Big Ricky but he ain't answering. Is TK as old as he claim it to be?

If TK was a breeding project done in Florida in the late 80's, then they would of been plenty of seeds. Which lead me to think many OG clones phenos could of been from that project... And the Ghost cut could of been a bag seeds from buds originated from the TK breeding project. Still how many chance there's is for that to happen? Probably not even one...

Funny how Kailua Kid bullshit story about OG Kush lineage, match the same breeding line as Big Ricky story about the TK lineage. Both mentioned Lemon Thai and Paki strain... KK is the first to mention LT and Paki, long before BR came with his TK story. PPL in the know, told me KK story is bullshit, if so, what if BR story is bullshit too then?

KK OG Kush lienage:
Chemdog 91 x (Lemon Thai x OW Paki Kush)

BR TK Lineage
Lemon Thai x Indu Kush x Pakistan

So far other than from BR, we have no prove that the TK is really from late 80's. According to Nspecta, he have sources that let him know that they knew TK since 97/98 in the swamp. Still far from 1988...

Only Matt and Josh story have proven to be true so far. All the other people claiming they have a cut from way back when blabla, can't bring no external sources to back their claims.

The only reasons why a lot of OG clones popped out in Cali around 97 to the 2000's, are this:

1) The clone Matt brought from the swamp was highly requested, so Matt and Josh got top dollars for it. Clones when out and female seeds where made.

2) People as ORGNKID sold a lot of fem beans in the 2000's, people bag seeds too, this brought new clones again.

3) People giving all sorts of name to the same clone, renaming it over and over, to the point people think they are different cuts that grow almost the same.

So far the top 3 strains out of USA are all from bag seeds.
OG Kush bag seeds from Florida
Chemdog 91 bag seeds from Oregon.
Sour Diesel some kind of bag seeds too, from NYC.

We have to reconsider hermie plants and accidental breeding I guess...

This Kailua Kid story sounds just like the bull shit story from that dude from Hawaii that claimed it came from Hawaii and then was caught on instagram with an older post on og kush where he was asking others where it came from on a comment. Notice how both these fuckers own seed companies.... what a bunch of knock offs. I can trace my real og cut back to 20 years when I was told the Florida story behind it.

 

[Pimples]

Is it as hard to get to root as they say?