Yellow tips on new growth

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DreamwalkerJ

DreamwalkerJ

So it looks like damage has stopped for now and all I've been seeing is what's already been done. Decided not to flush, just lower the amount of nutes and wait for 1 more week to see in what way plant's condition will change. One of two plants looking decent even with all the yellow\brown spotted leaves, second one looks a bit less good, but still buds keep forming and getting bigger.




Should I still do it even after the damage been done? Been feeding them CalMag, is it possible to overdo on Cal btw?




Absolutely, trying not to get too discouraged :) It's experience and even if my yield won't be optimal, I think I'll still get 20g+ from a plant, that would be pretty cool + for next time I'll avoid these mistakes and see how much better it all can come out.
Thanks for advice!
So it looks like damage has stopped for now and all I've been seeing is what's already been done. Decided not to flush, just lower the amount of nutes and wait for 1 more week to see in what way plant's condition will change. One of two plants looking decent even with all the yellow\brown spotted leaves, second one looks a bit less good, but still buds keep forming and getting bigger.


Ok so it is actually kinda difficult (NOT IMPOSSIBLE) to give them too much Ca or Mg. Magnesium deficiency CAN take up to 4 weeks before you even see the first signs. When you give the plants more, the damage will slow or stop almost immediately HOWEVER, if they were already deficient and you give them, for example, 1 gram of magnesium sulfate per gallon and they eat it and the problem is solved ,right? Except that when already deficient, they eat what you give them to recover but then they go deficient because they already ate the food and no more is left and then in 4 weeks you will start seeing yellow tips again. ANY nutrient, pH, or environmetal imbalances WILL slow the growth rate of flowers. Too much magnesium will resemble excess nitrogen without the burnt tips. Also, the ability to absorb Ca and Mg drastically decreases as the pH gets lower than 6. Oh and 1 morething that you might find useful, plants get up to 80% OF THEIR MASS FROM CO2. So enriching your grow with 900-1400 ppm CO2 will greatly increase your yield. Ify ou cant acquire a CO2 system just yet, then there are 2 things you can do that make a huge difference. Add carbonated water (pure carbonated/sparkling water from grocery store, just make sure the only ingredients are water and carbon dioxide) add the CO2 water to your nutes (it will lower your pH, btw) and put some in a spray bottle and mist them withCO2 water. I even do this in flower but only when the lights are on and with proper air circulation to prevent mold. Different strains require different things. My white widow supreme, for example, eats 2 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon while my sour blueberry didnt show the deficiency at all. If she wants it, give it to her. Just make sure that the symptoms you are seeing are not caused by a pH imbalance or a different nutrient being too high or low
 
Harry_Manback

Harry_Manback

A little update

One of the plant seems to be recovering and check out these buds! Leaves looked like that already, but at least you can see the damage that's been done.
IMG_20210410_215410.jpg



Second one, on the other hand, ain't doing as good. Here's some pics. Do you guys think I should flush it? There are 2 big branches, one looks decent(first pic) and another one(second and third pic) is not.

IMG_20210410_215509.jpg


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GNick55

GNick55

Staff member
Supporter
A little update

One of the plant seems to be recovering and check out these buds! Leaves looked like that already, but at least you can see the damage that's been done.
View attachment 1112067


Second one, on the other hand, ain't doing as good. Here's some pics. Do you guys think I should flush it? There are 2 big branches, one looks decent(first pic) and another one(second and third pic) is not.

View attachment 1112068

View attachment 1112069
View attachment 1112070
they both look nice and leaves are reacting nicely. maybe post pictures of canopy..
 
IHaveNoClothes

IHaveNoClothes

There is a lot going on here, but let me give you a few simple tips for most any strain.

If you get nutrient burn like that, make sure your next watering is just ph balanced tap water. Even with just water, leftover nutes in the soil will make it to the roots. Your better off having to little nutes, then to much. Then dial back your nutes roughly 20% the next time you add them, and gage for about a week before adjusting again. Nute burns don't cure in old leaves, so just watch new growth carefully. A little burning isn't a terrible thing if it's not in the flower stage.

Make sure your soil is damn near completely dry before watering again. To much water can cause a plethora of issues, and can lead to nutrient build up in the soil. The plants need at least several hours of semi dry soil to take in oxygen effectively. You can literally suffocate your plants. Also you really shouldn't be using nutrients more than once every 4 days if you aren't experienced.

Every strain is different, so never try to compare what's happening in one strain to another. Treat each as if they are in entirely unique circumstances, because they are.
 
DreamwalkerJ

DreamwalkerJ

Hey i dont know if this has been covered already or not but the yellowing at the tips, spreading back along the perimeter is a magnesium deficiency and the brownish colored spots look like they are from calcium deficiency. If it was light burn it would affect the whole leaf and any other leaves at the same height,. I use 1KW HID mostly but i have a couple flowering undera mars tsw2000 and its at 100% about 6inches above them with no light burn, in fact they love ot. Plants go through more magnesium and calcium under LED lights, and even more if you are in coco or hydro. Different strains have different needs as well. Ive grown 2 different strains in hydro on the same res (yes it was when i was a noob 15 years ago) and 1 strain was suffering deficiencies because the other strain was being a bully and eating all the nutes LOL. Thats what it looks like to me, magnesium and calcium deficiency. Keep in mind that a Mg deficiency will exist for up to 4 weeks before you see any visable signs of it. I hopethis helps.
 
Harry_Manback

Harry_Manback

A little burning isn't a terrible thing if it's not in the flower stage.
Learned this one thanks to everyone helping me here! Currently plants are entering their 10th week, so damage has been done and growth been slightly stunted. But it's ok, learning moment. I think 2-3 more weeks top until they're ready for harvest.


Also you really shouldn't be using nutrients more than once every 4 days if you aren't experienced.

Yup, that's what I'm doing. On average it takes 4 days for soil to dry properly so I feed plants again. Was weighting my plants as-well, to see when they're at their lightest weight.


Every strain is different, so never try to compare what's happening in one strain to another. Treat each as if they are in entirely unique circumstances, because they are.

Would even say every plant is pretty unique! But that's again a learning moment for me :) Two of my Super Lemon Haze do really look different, same with Gorilla Cookies. Even with the fact that I've fed and watered them exactly the same at first, now each getting their own custom nutes and watering.


Hey i dont know if this has been covered already or not but the yellowing at the tips, spreading back along the perimeter is a magnesium deficiency and the brownish colored spots look like they are from calcium deficiency.
Yup, it's exactly that. But reason for the deficiencies was a lockout due to incorrect PH. Damage has stopped for now and harvest time is soon-ish. Hope yields won't be too bad, but I never expected for my first time to be a prefect run.


what’s up?
So, it's the beginning of 10th week, monitoring trichomes closely. Seems like I've finally figured out amount of nutes, doing around 50-60% of recommended amount with 6.4-6.6PH and damage to leaves stopped, buds are getting bigger and heavier. Smell is out of this world, will do some pics later!
 
IHaveNoClothes

IHaveNoClothes

Learned this one thanks to everyone helping me here! Currently plants are entering their 10th week, so damage has been done and growth been slightly stunted. But it's ok, learning moment. I think 2-3 more weeks top until they're ready for harvest.




Yup, that's what I'm doing. On average it takes 4 days for soil to dry properly so I feed plants again. Was weighting my plants as-well, to see when they're at their lightest weight.




Would even say every plant is pretty unique! But that's again a learning moment for me :) Two of my Super Lemon Haze do really look different, same with Gorilla Cookies. Even with the fact that I've fed and watered them exactly the same at first, now each getting their own custom nutes and watering.



Yup, it's exactly that. But reason for the deficiencies was a lockout due to incorrect PH. Damage has stopped for now and harvest time is soon-ish. Hope yields won't be too bad, but I never expected for my first time to be a prefect run.



So, it's the beginning of 10th week, monitoring trichomes closely. Seems like I've finally figured out amount of nutes, doing around 50-60% of recommended amount with 6.4-6.6PH and damage to leaves stopped, buds are getting bigger and heavier. Smell is out of this world, will do some pics later!

4 days to dry is far to long. You will get mold, other fungi, and even pests with that kind of moisture in the grow stage. It's not guaranteed, but vastly more likely with that time frame. It will also likely raise your humidity levels outside of the max 45% during flowering. I would try pointing a fan directly at the base of the plants to assist with both oxygen introduction and to quicken your drying time. Then possibly add one water only feed day per week. If sounds like you fixed the nute lockout, so good job. Also don't worry about the stunted growth, that's a result of late stage flowering, not nutes.
 
DreamwalkerJ

DreamwalkerJ

@Harry_Manback - so what's up? Hows the grow going? Did you get nice nugs despite the nute issues? Any pics? Last I heard, you were on week 10 so I'm really curious to see how you made out. I'm hoping that you get a better harvest than you thought you would.
 
Harry_Manback

Harry_Manback

@Harry_Manback - so what's up? Hows the grow going? Did you get nice nugs despite the nute issues? Any pics? Last I heard, you were on week 10 so I'm really curious to see how you made out. I'm hoping that you get a better harvest than you thought you would.
Goddamn, I thought I've posted pics, but apparently I just left it in draft stage :D

Here are the pics!

IMG_20210415_143945.jpg



IMG_20210414_000840.jpg
IMG_20210414_000834.jpg
IMG_20210414_000828.jpg
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DreamwalkerJ

DreamwalkerJ

Hey man just a suggestion. During the flush i fed them RO water with some floralicious plus and magnesium sulfate. I know, i know, adding stuff/salts to flush water blah blah blah.... but listen... "the flush" started because legacy growers (old growers that grew without using science) used to grow with irresponsibly high nutrient concentrations during bloom (like 1800ppm high) so they had to flush all those extra nutrients out. However, when grown properlyl (i consider 1400ppm to be high. I use 700ppm in full veg and 900-1200 in full bloom-ripening) all you really NEED to do is REDUCE the amount of nutrients fed to the plants so thay the plants are forced to consume some of the left over nutes stored in them. You dont need to flush, you just need to let the plant eat the last of the food witgout givong jer too much. And then give just plain/RO water for the last 3- 5 days. Think about it, a lot of nutrients are IMMOBILE, like calcium. It becomes part of the cell walls in the plant
No amount of flushing is going to get rid of it. But giving water for the last 3 to 5 days ensures that ALL of the remaining niteogen and phosphorus are used up so your weed wont taste grassy like hay or like chemicals. If you do this non-flush method correctly, you can see UP TO 30% INCREASE IN DRY WEIGHT. The terpene, cannabinoid and essential oil production is off the charts. Adding the magnesium sulfate to the last 2 weeks before harvet add sulfur to the water and sulfur is the main nutrient used to produce essential oils. More sulfur = more resins. If you dont believe me, look or llt up. Someone did this exact test and gave samples out to leaders in the cannabis industry and 4 out of 5 preferred the taste and smoke of the weed that was only flushed for a few days (after lowering the nutrients over the previous 2 weeks). The MAIN IDEA behind flushing is to get rid of all the excess nutrients youbwere giving it. So just dont give it an excessive amount of nutes and gradually lower them over the last 2 weeks. Try it if you dont believe me. Durong bloom stay under 1000ppm and then under 900ppm during ripening and finally down to 400 or 500ppm and gradually lowered over the last 2 weeks. I personally prefer to collect the extra 30% yield and have it smoke and taste almost the same as weed that was starved and fed only water for 2 weeks. The only difference is that there are way more terpenes, the strain feels more potent, and the smells are amazing.
 
Harry_Manback

Harry_Manback

No amount of flushing is going to get rid of it. But giving water for the last 3 to 5 days ensures that ALL of the remaining niteogen and phosphorus are used up so your weed wont taste grassy like hay or like chemicals. If you do this non-flush method correctly, you can see UP TO 30% INCREASE IN DRY WEIGHT.

Thank you for this suggestion, I'm willing to try it out! How much time till the harvest, judging by my pics would you say left? 2-3 weeks or so?

Also, having a bit of an issue with humidity atm, since our weather is really irregular atm and most of the days it's pretty cold I can't really decrease humidity levels to 45, so it stays at like 55-60 :(
 
DreamwalkerJ

DreamwalkerJ

Thank you for this suggestion, I'm willing to try it out! How much time till the harvest, judging by my pics would you say left? 2-3 weeks or so?

Also, having a bit of an issue with humidity atm, since our weather is really irregular atm and most of the days it's pretty cold I can't really decrease humidity levels to 45, so it stays at like 55-60 :(
You should be ok for humidity if you make sure that your buds get plenty of air circulation, just be aware that the humidity will impact yield, but your biggest concern is mold. As a bonus, if your dark temp is 10° colder than your light temps, pretty colors happen. I believe it happens when the cold causes SOME of the chlorophyll to break down so that more of the plants colors become visible, kind of the same thing as leaves changing colors in the fall. The color is based on 2 things, genetic predisposition and the pH of the fluid inside specific plant cells. So when you lower the temps during your last week before harvest, adjust your pH. The more acidic it gets (low pH #), the more RED colors you will see and the more alkaline it gets (high pH #) the more BLUE colors you will see. If you keep your pH at a perfect neutral 7.0, it would be purple. Once you get the hang of this, you can help the plants look freaking amazing. Genetics permitting, of course. And its hard to tell how much longer they have. Tell me what strain they are and what week youre on. Also, what type of high do you want? Do you want a heady, cerebral, energizing type high or do you want a more mellow, couch-lock type high? If you want the uplifting type high, then you want to harvest when the little heads on the trichomes are milky white, once they are all milky white and you see a few starting to turn amber... CHOP IT DOWN NOW! But if you want the more mellow high, then wait until roughly 50-80% of the trichomes turn amber (50-80% depending on HOW mellow you want to be) 🤣 ive attached a pic of thebtrichomes up close so you can see what i mean. Only use the pistils (hairs) as a rough sign of maturization. If thevhairs are starting to turn amber, you need to start watching those trichomes. If you want to, you can message me directly and i can help you out more. For some reason my phone dislikes navigating the forums but my message board in my profile, no problem. Go figure🤔
 
Harry_Manback

Harry_Manback

Tell me what strain they are and what week youre on. Also, what type of high do you want?
Ok, so there are two strains Gorilla Cookies and Super Lemon Haze. One is supposed to be more chill Indica, high amounts of THC, so the one that'll be for weekends and relaxation. Super Lemon Haze should be a daytime type of strain, so, energetic, motivating and generally uplifting.

Both are on 10th week as of Tuesday. I've read about trichomes and also there was a thing about these little hair things(forgot the name again), like, when 75% of those turn amber it's one of a signs to start chopping plants down.

By the way I see quite a bit of purple colour, so that'll mean that PH is at 7, right?
 
Flexnerb

Flexnerb

A little update

One of the plant seems to be recovering and check out these buds! Leaves looked like that already, but at least you can see the damage that's been done.
View attachment 1112067


Second one, on the other hand, ain't doing as good. Here's some pics. Do you guys think I should flush it? There are 2 big branches, one looks decent(first pic) and another one(second and third pic) is not.

View attachment 1112068

View attachment 1112069
View attachment 1112070
Whats causing this damage? P? K?
 
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