Find the light target for each stage, work out the daily light your plants actually get, and estimate what a fixture delivers in your tent. Members here run about 150 to 250 PPFD for seedlings, 400 to 600 in veg, and up to about 1000 in flower.
From a meter or app reading
An estimate when you have no meter
Measured at the top of the canopy
| Stage | PPFD | Typical hours | DLI |
|---|---|---|---|
| Seedlings (first two weeks) | 150 to 250 | 18 | 9.7 to 16.2 |
| Clones and mother plants | 200 to 400 | 18 | 13.0 to 25.9 |
| Veg | 400 to 600 | 18 | 25.9 to 38.9 |
| Early flower (weeks 1 to 3) | 600 to 800 | 12 | 25.9 to 34.6 |
| Mid to late flower | 800 to 1,000 | 12 | 34.6 to 43.2 |
| Flower with added CO2 (about 1000 to 1200 ppm) | 1,000 to 1,200 | 12 | 43.2 to 51.8 |
Autoflowers usually run 18 to 20 hours all the way through, so the same PPFD gives them a higher DLI than a photoperiod plant in flower. Type your own hours into the calculator above.
Numbers get you close. The leaves tell you the rest. Flat, level, green leaves are happy. Edges curling up, leaves folding like a taco, or bleached tops mean too much light, so raise or dim the fixture. Leaves still reaching up an hour before lights-out can take more.
Change one thing at a time, by about 10 percent, and give the plants a few days before you judge.
From the THCFarmer archive
Aims for 200 to 250 PPFD for the first two weeks after sprout, then 400 to 500 until flower.
Likes about 150 to 200 on seedlings, enough to stop them stretching. If they stretch, drop the light an inch.
Runs about 1000 PPFD at the canopy with 1000 ppm CO2 through flower. Much past 1000 seems to go unused.
Flat, level, green leaves are happy. Edge curl, taco-ing and bleaching mean too much light. Leaves still praying an hour before lights-out want more.
Raises intensity until the plants complain, then backs off. For most LEDs, about 18 inches is a good minimum distance.
Discussions this page draws on
Learn guides on THCFarmer
PAR is the band of light plants use for photosynthesis (400 to 700 nm). PPFD is how much of that light lands on one spot each second, in µmol/m²/s. That is what a light meter reads. DLI is the total that spot receives over a whole day, in mol/m²/day. It rises with both intensity and hours, so 600 PPFD for 18 hours delivers more light than 800 PPFD for 12.
Multiply PPFD by the hours your lights are on, then by 0.0036. For example, 600 PPFD for 12 hours gives 600 x 12 x 0.0036 = 25.9 mol/m²/day.
Apps like Photone use the phone camera and give a rough reading. Members use them to get in the right range, then watch the plants. A real quantum (PAR) meter is far more accurate, especially under purple or very white LEDs.
Not with a wide LED in a reflective tent. The inverse-square rule assumes a single point of light in open space. A member who raised their light 1.9 times saw PPFD fall to about 39 percent, not the 28 percent the rule predicts. Measure after every move.
Use it as a starting point. Members find the charts often hang lights too low for real tents and real plants. Start higher or dimmer, then raise the intensity a little at a time while you watch the leaves.
It is an average for the whole canopy, assuming about 80 percent of the light lands on the plants in a reflective tent. The center will read higher and the corners lower. Use your fixture's measured µmol/J from its spec sheet if you have it, and the watts it actually draws from the wall, not the equivalent wattage on the box.
Post your light, its height and dimming, your tent size and a photo of the canopy. Members will tell you if it's too much or not enough.
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