Killing Autoflowers and Learning to Grow Organically :p

[ComfortablyNumb]

You are setup so that the ONLY thing you ever have to do is water the plant and adjust the light.
No pH, No ppms, no nothing.

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

What is your medium? Can you tell everything that's in it?

Yes, he is growing in living soil. We chose his amendments carefully for him so he has nothing to do but water and watch it grow. He seems bound and determined to kill this thing one way or another because he won't freakin leave it alone.

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

We want him to get through this grow and have a win. Then he can adjust to his hearts content because he will have done it once.
I don't mean to go off on him. Its just he is one of those that has no paitence and this will teach it to him but he is too busy to be paitent.

 

[Frostfire]

Day 34
75° | 59% RH | 526 µmols | 31 DLI

Well I hope I'm onto the correct diagnosis for Lloyd. I was doing some more research Sunday afternoon and found a fair amount of PH issue tales that had similar looking symptoms. I pH'd some water to 6.5 and watered her today when the 1/4 test point was at a 2 on my meter. She took almost a full 3C w/ 0.1g of Recharge. There was just enough runoff to test and the pH was 7.5. I suppose that's either because I let the soil get too dry and killed off too many microbes or my pH going in has just been too high in general. Either way, pH'd water going forward. She's looking much better for the moment. The Blueberry Auto popped overnight and the first set of true leaves is visible already . Hopefully I can fuck this one up less.

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By the way, what are you watering with? What is the pH of that (before any adjustment)? What did you pH your H20 with? If you are using tap H20 and it's high (alkaline) a squeeze of lemon juice will bring it down. What you have done has helped your plant, can't argue with results. Keep up the good work!

 

[ajgrows]

Yeah, that’s how I approached it. Well shit, I guess I’ve got something else causing my problems if it’s not pH.

@Frostfire its Roots Organics Lush. Started the soil cooking w/ some Fish Shit and give it a small amount of Recharge weekly also. I use a basic water filter and this last watering I did use pH Down to adjust it.

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

What problem do you think you are seeing?

 

[OutdoorGrowGuy]

Yeah, that’s how I approached it. Well shit, I guess I’ve got something else causing my problems if it’s not pH.

@Frostfire its Roots Organics Lush. Started the soil cooking w/ some Fish Shit and give it a small amount of Recharge weekly also. I use a basic water filter and this last watering I did use pH Down to adjust it.

Hello ajgrows,

Curious if it might be the regular supplement of recharge causing the pH to climb? (At least temporarily)
Also, although Fish Sh!t states no npk value, I wouldn't disregard the possibility Fish Sh!t might have an effect on pH as well.
Microbial activity does have an effect on pH.

When you composted your soil, what organic material did you use? And what did you use as a buffer, or conditioner, besides Recharge and Fish Sh!t?
Also did you test the soil's pH before planting?

Nice turn around btw!

 

[OutdoorGrowGuy]

That's what I thought with organic grows so I wasn't adjusting the pH of my water before. Just keep giving plain water then and forget about it?

I grow organic as well and never have, except when I've grown hydro.

But it honestly depends a lot on your own water source. Not specifically it's pH, but it's total ec.
If your water's low ec and between 6.5 and 7.5 pH, I personally wouldn't bother.

It's much more important what's actually in your soil.

All the best and good luck with the rest.

 

[ajgrows]

He seems bound and determined to kill this thing one way or another because he won't freakin leave it alone.

I didn't even see this But seriously, other than watering it and one day of LST, I really haven't done much else to this one have I?

What problem do you think you are seeing?

There is more yellowing on other leaves now. I think I am starting to see yellowing on the tips of the top leaves also, but I'm only at 30ish DLI so I wouldn't think that's light burn. If I didn't have the other problems, I would assume it's the lights. I was also considering the regular Recharge I'm adding is a problem, or my cover crops might somehow be impacting the nutrients. I don't understand how adding microbial life would somehow make the plant take in more nutrients, or how a few companion plants would be a problem though.

Hello ajgrows,

Curious if it might be the regular supplement of recharge causing the pH to climb? (At least temporarily)
Also, although Fish Sh!t states no npk value, I wouldn't disregard the possibility Fish Sh!t might have an effect on pH as well.
Microbial activity does have an effect on pH.

When you composted your soil, what organic material did you use? And what did you use as a buffer, or conditioner, besides Recharge and Fish Sh!t?
Also did you test the soil's pH before planting?

Nice turn around btw!

^^This. I've read both good and bad about Recharge. Might be better to take it out of the mix to eliminate one variable. I didn't mix the soil myself. It's bag soil, Roots Organics LUSH. I have only tested some runoff pH after watering. I don't think I checked it before I transplanted her into the 1 gallon pot.

 

[ajgrows]

Is it possible there's too much calcium in my tap water? I used some in my humidifier and noticed a lot of white dust on my carbon filter a few weeks ago, maybe that is causing lockout. This looks like magnesium deficiency possibly? I raised the lights a couple inches, I'd rather not stress Lloyd out more or smoke the seedling that is also in the tent.

 

[Schwer]

Is it possible there's too much calcium in my tap water? I used some in my humidifier and noticed a lot of white dust on my carbon filter a few weeks ago, maybe that is causing lockout. This looks like magnesium deficiency possibly? I raised the lights a couple inches, I'd rather not stress Lloyd out more or smoke the seedling that is also in the tent.

Have you tried looking up your local water report (if applicable) to see what you're working with? Mine was pretty easy to find on our county's website.

 

[ajgrows]

Have you tried looking up your local water report (if applicable) to see what you're working with? Mine was pretty easy to find on our county's website.

I did try before I dropped the first seeds and what I found was more of an ambiguous findings report, not anything with actual mineral information.

EDIT: Amazing, my water company has a report. Only 56 ppm calcium

 

[OutdoorGrowGuy]

I didn't even see this But seriously, other than watering it and one day of LST, I really haven't done much else to this one have I?

There is more yellowing on other leaves now. I think I am starting to see yellowing on the tips of the top leaves also, but I'm only at 30ish DLI so I wouldn't think that's light burn. If I didn't have the other problems, I would assume it's the lights. I was also considering the regular Recharge I'm adding is a problem, or my cover crops might somehow be impacting the nutrients. I don't understand how adding microbial life would somehow make the plant take in more nutrients, or how a few companion plants would be a problem though.


^^This. I've read both good and bad about Recharge. Might be better to take it out of the mix to eliminate one variable. I didn't mix the soil myself. It's bag soil, Roots Organics LUSH. I have only tested some runoff pH after watering. I don't think I checked it before I transplanted her into the 1 gallon pot.

I reckon it might be worth a shot. At least to see if there's a difference at all.
Probably better periodically, rather than regularly.

Also I wouldn't rely on runoff. It's rarely accurate growing organically.
A soil probe, or slurry sample is much more reliable.

Is it possible there's too much calcium in my tap water? I used some in my humidifier and noticed a lot of white dust on my carbon filter a few weeks ago, maybe that is causing lockout. This looks like magnesium deficiency possibly? I raised the lights a couple inches, I'd rather not stress Lloyd out more or smoke the seedling that is also in the tent.

What type organic matter have you added to your soil?

I've got a fair amount of scale myself. Hasn't ever been a problem for me, but it's low ec.
I'd test your water just to be sure.

I think it's more likely your soil.

I did try before I dropped the first seeds and what I found was more of an ambiguous findings report, not anything with actual mineral information.

EDIT: Amazing, my water company has a report. Only 56 ppm calcium

That's nothing to worry about in my honest opinion.

Any mention of ppm total?

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

Because you are growing an auto, it's in flower already. When a plant goes into flower mode, the bottom leaves suffer because the plant redirects the food to the flowers.
Yes, the spots look like a deficiency but they also look like root rot and a couple of other things.

Stop the Recharge.
Keep the rest the same and raise the light 4 or 5 inches.

 

[ajgrows]

I reckon it might be worth a shot. At least to see if there's a difference at all.
Probably better periodically, rather than regularly.

Also I wouldn't rely on runoff. It's rarely accurate growing organically.
A soil probe, or slurry sample is much more reliable.


What type organic matter have you added to your soil?

I've got a fair amount of scale myself. Hasn't ever been a problem for me, but it's low ec.
I'd test your water just to be sure.

I think it's more likely your soil.


That's nothing to worry about in my honest opinion.

Any mention of ppm total?

Do you just scoop out some dirt from the pot for the slurry then? I didn't add anything to the LUSH other than the FS and Recharge. My filtered tap water is around 550 ppm.

Because you are growing an auto, it's in flower already. When a plant goes into flower mode, the bottom leaves suffer because the plant redirects the food to the flowers.
Yes, the spots look like a deficiency but they also look like root rot and a couple of other things.

Stop the Recharge.
Keep the rest the same and raise the light 4 or 5 inches.

Would a top dress be in order then? I can't imagine the soil is out of nutrients already. Wouldn't root rot be a slim chance of cause, primarily because I've overdone the dry back? What makes you think that could be a cause of the problems?

 

[OutdoorGrowGuy]

Do you just scoop out some dirt from the pot for the slurry then? I didn't add anything to the LUSH other than the FS and Recharge.

You can do it that way and make a slurry using distilled water. The correct soil / distilled water ratio will be easy to find online.
You can then test the slurry with your hydro probe.

But better imo are the soil specific kits you buy from the garden / nursery section at your local hardware.
Cheap and you'll get about 100 tests from a single kit.

There are also soil specific probes. But good ones aren't cheap.

My filtered tap water is around 550 ppm.

Your filtered water is 550ppm!?
What is it straight out the tap?
What are you using to filter your tap water? Might there be an alkalizer?

Would a top dress be in order then? I can't imagine the soil is out of nutrients already.

How old is the plant / how long since potting it?

What time frame does the manufactur suggest the soil has before needing to amend or start fertilizer?
I can't imagine it's more than several weeks. But do check and see.

Wouldn't root rot be a slim chance of cause, primarily because I've overdone the dry back? What makes you think that could be a cause of the problems?

Yes root rot is a possibility. But since you're letting the soil dry between watering, it mightn't be.
Root rot likes soggy, poorly aerated soil.
You're doing the right thing by letting it dry.

 

[ajgrows]

You can do it that way and make a slurry using distilled water. The correct soil / distilled water ratio will be easy to find online.
You can then test the slurry with your hydro probe.

But better imo are the soil specific kits you buy from the garden / nursery section at your local hardware.
Cheap and you'll get about 100 tests from a single kit.

There are also soil specific probes. But good ones aren't cheap.

Ah gotcha. Would one of these cheap pH meters not work?

Your filtered water is 550ppm!?
What is it straight out the tap?
What are you using to filter your tap water? Might there be an alkalizer?


How old is the plant / how long since potting it?

What time frame does the manufactur suggest the soil has before needing to amend or start fertilizer?
I can't imagine it's more than several weeks. But do check and see.


Yes root rot is a possibility. But since you're letting the soil dry between watering, it mightn't be.
Root rot likes soggy, poorly aerated soil.
You're doing the right thing by letting it dry.

Sorry, that should be 250 ppm filtered. It's closer to 400 unfiltered. I have a simple 2 stage that removes contaminants only, chlorine, metals, etc. It is not an R/O system.

It's going on 5 weeks now, transplanted at 21 days. They suggest the soil will feed for 8 weeks, but I've read user feedback that it needs amending at 4-6 weeks, which seems to make sense. So I would think I have at least a few more weeks before I need to top dress.

 

[Tkomes70]

This is the start of my second attempt growing autos to provide my own meds. I killed the last run by over watering all three seedlings on day 7 . Sticking with one plant and minimal amendments until I can prove to myself that I'm not going to kill more of them, and dial in a process I can scale at some point. I'm definitely leery of watering too much now, so my main goal with this diary is to just figure out an appropriate watering amount/schedule for my environment. Not setting any other goals other than completing the run and hopefully having something to dry and cure in a few months.

Show Me OG II Auto​

Day 1:

DTE 4-6-2 ALL PURPOSE​	3 tbsp​
DTE 4-8-4 BLOOM​	2 tbsp​
WORM CASTINGS​	2 lbs​
HAPPY FROG SOIL​	1/2 bag​
5 GAL POTS​	1​
WATER​	20mL​
PH​	6.5​
WATTS​	50%​
LIGHT DISTANCE​	24"​
RH	65%

View attachment 1151978

Did you plant the germinated seed directly into the soil? What is the temperature?

 

[OutdoorGrowGuy]

Ah gotcha. Would one of these cheap pH meters not work?

They're alright to start with i've owned a few, but they never stayed accurate for long.
You might want to buy 2.

Sorry, that should be 250 ppm filtered. It's closer to 400 unfiltered. I have a simple 2 stage that removes contaminants only, chlorine, metals, etc. It is not an R/O system.

That's a tough call to be honest.
Garden bed or large planter, I'd say no problem at all.

Keep playing it by ear.
It's probably coincidence but it may be the temporary drop in pH at the root zone when you adjusted your water to pH 6.5, which made it perk up a couple days ago. But the soil very quickly reverts back to what it was.
(soil needs amendment, if this is the case)

Be careful though, because root rot does similar when you water. Perks right up temporarily and then slumps again very soon after.
But I'll take your word you're drying the soil enough. You seem sure that you are.

What's the pH once the water is filtered? (without recharge)

It's going on 5 weeks now, transplanted at 21 days. They suggest the soil will feed for 8 weeks, but I've read user feedback that it needs amending at 4-6 weeks, which seems to make sense. So I would think I have at least a few more weeks before I need to top dress.

When abouts did you start seeing the plant show symptoms?

 

[OutdoorGrowGuy]

@ajgrows

One step at a time.
No amendments or changes for now, until you have a good idea what the soil's pH is.
Notice too, that those pH probes aren't accurate for dry soil. It suggests to measure the pH when you water. But in all honesty it's a bit gimmicky, because you may well want a pH estimate from a dry soil sample.
You can do this with the soil pH test kits I mentioned. Comes with a liquid solution and barium sulfate powder. Dry soil, wet soil, doesn't matter and it's accurate.

Good luck.