CelticEBE
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Well don't beat yourself up too much brother! The environments our ladies like are perfect breeding grounds for the little buggers. Sometimes there isn't much you can do about it at all. What kind of predators did you release?
Well don't beat yourself up too much brother! The environments our ladies like are perfect breeding grounds for the little buggers. Sometimes there isn't much you can do about it at all. What kind of predators did you release?
Awesome update Boomer! Slick new upgrades as well... I need to get a sub panel into my garage and feed the flower room above in a similar fashion. Any suggestions or links? My electrical house panel is on the exterior garage wall and I thought it might be possible to connect through interior drywall instead of the stucco outside. :wondering
No worries Boomer... With so many journals subscriptions, I sometimes forget that I've asked similar questions before. In any case, very clean install as always... :cool
Looking good Boomer sorry about the bugs, but I'm sure you'll get that under control in no time.
peeking in,,,
nice,,,,,,,
bb57^
mvf_
ftp
Hey Boomer! Been quiet in here the last couple of days. How did the GoGnats work for ya?
Hey Boom, no rush, but I was wondering if you'd mind taking a pic of your water setup when you get a chance?
Have the same R/O filter and after flooding my garage twice I stopped using it (my tap water isn't all that bad, honestly), but figure I might as well figure out a way to use it with the rest of the upgrades and decided I need to install a float valve - any chance you could take a pic of yours?
Also, how does the hose contraption workout? Does it run to a faucet up there and is constantly on, or do you flip a switch and the pump comes on?
Need to do something very similar so instead of coming up with my own ideas I'd just copy your system (which appears to work).
-Lazy Bobby
hahaha funny u mention that. ive flooded my rooms (well more like large spills) but havent flooded my garage yet using the RO setup. i actually have the float valve sitting rite next to the rez with a sticky on it thats says "please install me lazy boomer" haha
i just tap the rez to determine the water height and always keep it goin at certain times of the day when actually filling upstairs rezs. i use timers to not forget cuz i did that once, woke up middle of the night and ran out expecting a flood. mines only a 100gal/day RO so it takes time to fill up all 200gallons.
the float valve is simple to install once u understand the concept. drill the correct sized hole wherever ud like the water level to top out at. then take apart the float valve hardware and put it thru the drilled hole and reach inside to screw the bolt bak together. before u do that u need to run the fresh RO water line into/thru the float valve then tigthen and should b good. not sure this helps but i hope it does. just fuck with it ull figure it out. the float valve will raise up level with the water as it rises and will pinch off the RO water coming in thus no more... goodluck :passingjoint:
in regards to how mine is setup;
200 gallon rez gets filled as needed. i have a submerged pump inside with pvc connector and hose clamp that allows me to hook up a plain cheap garden hose and ran it thru the gargae cieling straight into the flower room. the hose is long enough to reach both 70gall rezs in the flower room and into the other 10'x10' veg room and fill those rezs.
the submerged pump has an extension cord thats ran to a power supply and i manually plug it in. ive been too lazy to care to install the float valve, timers, or actual on/off water valves. id rec doin it now while gettin ready.
make sure the pump u choose has enough GPH and PSI to push the desired amount to the correct distance.
You can only control so many variables to improve potency with your grow room. Genetics is by far the most important part. No mater what you do, they can only get as good as the strain allows. Once you know you got top shelf genes, your real goal is to keep them girls in perfect health from start to finish. This definetly makes them hit their max potency. From many sources, a slightly my first hand, small amounts of uvb light supplimented helps increase thc production. The bulb is fairly cheap($20-$30) and should only be run for about an hour a day, 1 bulb per table about 2-3ft away. Having it too close or on for too long will cause abnormal plant growth. I am currently trying Humbodt SnowStorm Ultra which is a fairly cheap addative that did make the plants noticeably frostier when added to the res, but I will not know if they are actually more potent until I harvest the Blue Kush in about a month. I tried the 3 days of darkness at the end and didnt notice a difference. Keeping my temps a little lower overall(not just the end) seemed to promote healthier growth(79F instead of 85F) also lowering the amount of air on the plants seemed to have the same effect. A little backround on my fans. I have 2 8" oscillating fans that I would run 24/7 on low. One blowing above the canopy and the other blowing below in the opposite direction. With this setup, I noticed my leaves were always dull looking and tough feeling. After spending a lot of time to figure out this was caused by too much air flow I shut the upper fan off, and run the lower on on a timmer for 15min on, 45min off. My plants(all leaves) were noticeably softer, healthier, and had that nice shine to them within a 2 day period. . My room humidity also droped by 15%. I know this contradicts what a lot of people say, but it doesnt hurt to try and if it will work for you, the benefits will show in a very short amount of time and if they dont, switch back. Thats all I got Boomer, hope it helps. If you find any golden tricks, feel free to share, Im always looking for the next one.So i need to improve my overall bud quality now that i kinda got the yield amount right. obviously i want to increase my yield but i need sum suggestions on a few things that i felt was a shortcoming in the last grow.
Ive heard lower ur room night temps in last 2 weeks of flower to help induce purpling/extra trichs?
Lower your rez water temps as low as 63* to help purpling/extra trichs?
Lower c02? how much? when?
How many dark hours before u harvest?
I know its a good amount of questions but this is an area i want to explore more and get floor feedback from real growers. these topics are not covered in any of my books. unless i sumhow missed it. im in the process of rereading all of them and a new breeders guide book.
You can only control so many variables to improve potency with your grow room. Genetics is by far the most important part. No mater what you do, they can only get as good as the strain allows. Once you know you got top shelf genes, your real goal is to keep them girls in perfect health from start to finish. This definetly makes them hit their max potency. From many sources, a slightly my first hand, small amounts of uvb light supplimented helps increase thc production. The bulb is fairly cheap($20-$30) and should only be run for about an hour a day, 1 bulb per table about 2-3ft away. Having it too close or on for too long will cause abnormal plant growth. I am currently trying Humbodt SnowStorm Ultra which is a fairly cheap addative that did make the plants noticeably frostier when added to the res, but I will not know if they are actually more potent until I harvest the Blue Kush in about a month. I tried the 3 days of darkness at the end and didnt notice a difference. Keeping my temps a little lower overall(not just the end) seemed to promote healthier growth(79F instead of 85F) also lowering the amount of air on the plants seemed to have the same effect. A little backround on my fans. I have 2 8" oscillating fans that I would run 24/7 on low. One blowing above the canopy and the other blowing below in the opposite direction. With this setup, I noticed my leaves were always dull looking and tough feeling. After spending a lot of time to figure out this was caused by too much air flow I shut the upper fan off, and run the lower on on a timmer for 15min on, 45min off. My plants(all leaves) were noticeably softer, healthier, and had that nice shine to them within a 2 day period. . My room humidity also droped by 15%. I know this contradicts what a lot of people say, but it doesnt hurt to try and if it will work for you, the benefits will show in a very short amount of time and if they dont, switch back. Thats all I got Boomer, hope it helps. If you find any golden tricks, feel free to share, Im always looking for the next one.
:coolA Shady Case Study: Localized Vapor Pressure Deficit (L-VPD)… :nerd
There are several factors to a successful garden… IMVHO, First is great genetics, then comes a consistent and perfect atmosphere, and with those things pH, PPM/EC, nutrient profiles, different mediums, pot size in relation to plant size, and watering/feeding intervals are all critically important variables to be adjusted based on plant response and strain requirements. Of course research, experiments, and experience usually help me to work smarter and not harder…
This is simply a brief study on VPD. I’ve mentioned Vapor Pressure Deficit before in my 3rd Round journal and provided the following link to others:And I’ve quoted the following paragraphs to summarize the concept:
For a while now, I’ve been logging photos and details of a phenomenon I’ve noticed, which appears to be a localized vapor pressure deficit, which I will dub L-VPD. Simply stated as wind speed increases across a leaf’s surface, the localized humidity drops since warm air can hold more water vapor than cool air… So if you’re garden’s ambient environment is dialed-in, you can still encounter localized VPD problems. In my situation these problems occur within the immediate vicinity of my fans. So, while my garden is dialed-in, I still have a few leaves that appear to be showing deficiencies, but are simply damaged by high L-VPD.
Alright enough talk, let’s look at some photos. I’ll start with a lower canopy leaf, of a Master x Bubba, in the middle of the tray. This looks healthy…