Boomer's Ocean Grown 5k watt ScrOG Lab w/ c02

[A6 Grower]

the bomb sounds good, im about to move and start a new room or two. i think i might just start off with a bomb in each room and then do a good cleaning. Thanks intergra its always nice to find shit that actually works :)

 

[Boomer242]

the bomb sounds good, im about to move and start a new room or two. i think i might just start off with a bomb in each room and then do a good cleaning. Thanks intergra its always nice to find shit that actually works :)

i do bomb everytime i change out plants in both rooms with pyrethum and it works but i prob tracked in the mites. who knows couldve been on the cuttings a buddy brought over from a vendor. i sprayed them but doesnt mean the mites neccessarily died.

but i think bombs are standard for pest control between crops.

 

[Boomer242]

Have you considered bug bombs. I tried just about every product on the market trying to get rid of mites when I got them, and I got it dialed down to the two that worked best for me. The first was Organocide. It is a spray that kills mites and eggs on contact and is organic and safe to use up to the day of harves. This product worked very well, but if your like me(you are) it is very hard to do a complete spray with plants in a scrog. Although this worked very well for controlling them, I could never seem to get rid of them completely. Thats when I went heavy duty and found a really good industrial strenght greenhouse bug bomb. I tried the pyrithrin one and it worked, but they came back, but then I tried the Attain version from the same company and I haven seen a mite since and my flower and veg rooms have been mite free for over 6mo's now. I just set one of those off in each room and they were gone forever. If you go the bomb route, let me know so I can tell you the proper safety precautions.

Organocide


Attain bug bomb(this is the brand, but pyrithrin is pictured)

funny thing is the whole debate between Forbid being terrible and bug bombs during flower is terrible... i see both sides of the arguement but im the one with the mites and dont want dead plants. i also dont want to die myself. lol.
we had the debate between whether to use Forbid or bug bombs at greencoast. the shop seems to be split on opinions of wats safe or ok to use and wat will actually work.
i have 6 bug bombs here (exactly the one u sent in the links) and will have to research more about using it during flower IF i were to ever use it. so if peeps have any Respectful comments and discussions about using bug bombs during flower plz share ur thoughts and experience for myself and everyone who will have future mite issues.

thanks for the link Int! im gonna shoot u a PM

 

[Integra21]

funny thing is the whole debate between Forbid being terrible and bug bombs during flower is terrible... i see both sides of the arguement but im the one with the mites and dont want dead plants. i also dont want to die myself. lol.
we had the debate between whether to use Forbid or bug bombs at greencoast. the shop seems to be split on opinions of wats safe or ok to use and wat will actually work.
i have 6 bug bombs here (exactly the one u sent in the links) and will have to research more about using it during flower IF i were to ever use it. so if peeps have any Respectful comments and discussions about using bug bombs during flower plz share ur thoughts and experience for myself and everyone who will have future mite issues.

thanks for the link Int! im gonna shoot u a PM

The ones pictured are Pyrethrin based bombs and have a heavy residue that may effect your taste. You want that exact brand, but it says Attain which is the active ingredient. Not only is it lower residue and much more suitable for use in flower, but since it is Attain based, if you have Pyrethrin resistant mites it will kill the shit out of them. Mine were resistant from trying all of the sprays I could get my hands on(Azamax, Bang, Dont Bug Me, Einstien Oil(Neem), No Pest Srips, and organocide) but one bomb in veg and flower room and I havent seen the little bastards in 6 months. I used it in the flower room at week 5. And my room is much lower volume than yours. And after harvest, the bud still smelled and tasted great, and smokes smooth. I have been smoking on that herb for 6 months with no negative anything from it. here's a pic of the can...
http://www.invalid.com/members/integra21-157637-albums-6th-grow-madonna-hericules-dual-600w-water-cooled-co2-shallow-dwc-technaflora-nutrients-picture1148170-dscn1383-1.jpg

 

[Bobby Smith]

the stats for drying temps sounds about right if i recall. ill look in my books before i make a decision.

for my two flower tables, i have 2x70gal rez underneath. honestly im still testing my watering schedule. it varies so idk exact gallons used per day. if id have to guess itd be sumthing like 10gal? figuring that i usually never fill all the way to 70gallons in the rez and i change the rez out every week. so should break down to 10gal/day right? i hope i can still count geez haha.

the ph swing is usually my doing... i talked with jack and he informed me of a few things i was doing wrong...

1. i add PH down to adjust where i want almost immediately after i add my new nute reg.
2. i pour an "estimated" amount of PH up/down directly into the rez which is acid and oops my bad...

anyways he mentioned to dilute the ph solution in a seperate container/cup before tossin in the rez.
also my RO ph is high, usually about 8.0+ so originally i was also pourin straight PH solution into the RO 200gall rez downstairs, and allowing it to adjust to the PH level i desired (5.6-6.1)
-issue with this is....
once i pump the fresh RO water from the 200gal rez up into the flower room rez, i also still need to add my nutes. When adding nutes theyre acidic and bring the PH down. Now lets say i put fresh RO in my emtpy 70gal rez and the PH is 6.0, then i add my nutes, it could b lik 4.5 or sum shit. then u gotta add UP then DOWN etc. ive overdone the ph up/down in my first round and saw sum bad results with it. this round ive been better about it but what the point of this rambling is that u should leave ur RO ph stasis then add ur nutes, wait a while and see where the PH swings too. this should help stabilize the rez ph. i havent done this enough myself to say its compeltely true, but im sure it is. anyways the other concept is that cannabis uptakes diff macro/micro nutes at diff stages in life and the uptake availability is based on the ph of thesolution. so letting ur rez swing from 5.5-6.3 is almost a good thing to allow the plant to uptake all possible nutes being fed. thats the theory at least and im testing it.

now im lookin bak laughin at how much i jsut wrote. hope it answered ur question if not plz ask again lol.

Lol, I think you answered it, but I'm not 100% sure.

Kinda my fault for asking your watering schedule - pointless question because we'll be using totally different media, so my bads.

I do agree with what Jack said - when I added my nutes to my RO water, I didn't have to pH it at all because it'd always come out to 5.6-5.8 (using Lucas formula with FloraNova).

Anyhow, the question I meant to ask the first time is this:

1) With a recirculating system, the pH swings that I've encountered do not allow me to leave the system unattended for a week+ at a time because the pH would shoot from 5.6 to 6.8 or 7 within a week's time - what kind of swing is there in a DTW reservoir?

So it's Sunday, you changeout your reservoir, set the pH to 5.6 and leave for a week............when you come back, your pH will be ____?

I realize it's not gonna be anywhere near 7 like it might be with a recirculating system, but does it stay exactly at 5.6 or will it generally creep up, but just slower?

Sorry for the lengthy question.

 

[Boomer242]

The ones pictured are Pyrethrin based bombs and have a heavy residue that may effect your taste. You want that exact brand, but it says Attain which is the active ingredient. Not only is it lower residue and much more suitable for use in flower, but since it is Attain based, if you have Pyrethrin resistant mites it will kill the shit out of them. Mine were resistant from trying all of the sprays I could get my hands on(Azamax, Bang, Dont Bug Me, Einstien Oil(Neem), No Pest Srips, and organocide) but one bomb in veg and flower room and I havent seen the little bastards in 6 months. I used it in the flower room at week 5. And my room is much lower volume than yours. And after harvest, the bud still smelled and tasted great, and smokes smooth. I have been smoking on that herb for 6 months with no negative anything from it. here's a pic of the can...
http://www.invalid.com/members/integra21-157637-albums-6th-grow-madonna-hericules-dual-600w-water-cooled-co2-shallow-dwc-technaflora-nutrients-picture1148170-dscn1383-1.jpg

thanks for the pic and testimony i talked to the shop they carry it and says the theory makes sense and mite try it out since im still seeing mites.

 

[Boomer242]

Lol, I think you answered it, but I'm not 100% sure.

Kinda my fault for asking your watering schedule - pointless question because we'll be using totally different media, so my bads.

I do agree with what Jack said - when I added my nutes to my RO water, I didn't have to pH it at all because it'd always come out to 5.6-5.8 (using Lucas formula with FloraNova).

Anyhow, the question I meant to ask the first time is this:

1) With a recirculating system, the pH swings that I've encountered do not allow me to leave the system unattended for a week+ at a time because the pH would shoot from 5.6 to 6.8 or 7 within a week's time - what kind of swing is there in a DTW reservoir?

So it's Sunday, you changeout your reservoir, set the pH to 5.6 and leave for a week............when you come back, your pH will be ____?

I realize it's not gonna be anywhere near 7 like it might be with a recirculating system, but does it stay exactly at 5.6 or will it generally creep up, but just slower?

Sorry for the lengthy question.

i actually have a flood veg table that recircs the water and i dont see too crazy of a ph swing honestly i kinda just let it go from 5.5-6.3 but again im using RW.

for my flower tables that are drip to waste, the rez PH does seem to creep but slowly.

lets say its at 5.6 after nutes added. osmosis happens and sum water will evap and the system will continue to feed about 10gal/day and that will allow the PPMs to creep up slowly as well. usually i see like 10-30ppm+ a day. then ill top off towards the end of the week with fresh no PHd RO water and let things rebalance out for the PH and also see where the PPMs drop down to. So for example i was feeding last week at 1600ppm. it crept all the way to 1680, then i topped off and it dropped to 850ppm. then i flushed last night with 200ppm. The PH creeps from 5.6 the first day prob up to 6.0 then i top it off and could go even higher. up to 6.3-6.5

-i will adjust the ph when im doing a straight RO flush (ph was at 9.01 from RO straight) and i adjust my ph when i top off the rez with RO. i dont want to say any of this to be correct, this is just wat ive been doing that reflects my current results. im still learning, testing etc... hope this helps give u a direction.

 

[Boomer242]

i decided against using the Attain TR bug bomb this late in flower. Attain TR im told is a follow up bug bomb that is not as strong and doesnt leave as much residue. Its a follow up bomb after the pyrethum bomb. so makes sense why Int would be able to use it with like 4 weeks of flower left and no or little residue. im gonna pull in about 3 weeks so i dont want to chance it.

I went ahead lowered my room temps
Night; 63*
Day 75*
-runnin c02 @ 900ppm

The mites seem to have slowed down and their numbers lessened drastically. so hopefully i can keep them in check til harvest.

 

[Bobby Smith]

Thanks Boom, really good info there.

Switching topics slightly, how did you decide what size chiller you needed?

Trying to figure all that out now - I'm assuming since you're running DTW that your chiller requirements per gallon would be less than someone (like me) who was going to be running a recirculating reservoir (yup, back on that kick now) - figure I'm gonna shoot for about a 60 gallon reservoir, and I can't figure out what size chiller to get.

Debating between a 1/10 or 1/4HP model - seems like your 1HP chiller is SUPER overkill for two sedentary 70 gallon reservoirs, no?

Anyhow, I'm sure you know this already but it's worth repeating - properly insulating your reservoir will dramatically lower the necessary cooling from the chiller, saving you lots of energy $$$s.

 

[Boomer242]

Thanks Boom, really good info there.

Switching topics slightly, how did you decide what size chiller you needed?

Trying to figure all that out now - I'm assuming since you're running DTW that your chiller requirements per gallon would be less than someone (like me) who was going to be running a recirculating reservoir (yup, back on that kick now) - figure I'm gonna shoot for about a 60 gallon reservoir, and I can't figure out what size chiller to get.

Debating between a 1/10 or 1/4HP model - seems like your 1HP chiller is SUPER overkill for two sedentary 70 gallon reservoirs, no?

Anyhow, I'm sure you know this already but it's worth repeating - properly insulating your reservoir will dramatically lower the necessary cooling from the chiller, saving you lots of energy $$$s.

For my shop i was originaly planning to use 1HP per UC system but now that im doin more research using Hydro Innovations Cooling coils, im gonna upgrade to a 2HP chillking and branch off several cooling coils for each epicenter (rez) on the under current setup. im not sure how many ill need yet but i was told theres a general formula to calculate wat size chiller u need. sumone on here mite know it but the guys at ur hydro shop should def know.


I chose the 1HP chiller over doing (2) 1/2HP chillers for the power efficenecy and cost to buy. I plan to get temps down to 50* so u need a large enough chiller. Go big or go home is my moto.

I wouldnt suggest doing recirc for flower but i know u may have limited options and a chiller will greatly reduce ur chances of pathogens and other rez issues. id rec a 1/4hp for u and get cooling coils for each rez.

i like the cooling coil concept for one major reason; it doesnt exchange nute reg. it pumps cooled water (in an insulated rez) up to the 2x70gal flower rezs that each have cooling coils, that cold water chills the rez water which contains nutes and brings the lukewarm water thru the coil bak down to the chiller rez to be cooled once again then recirc. this works great cuz i have two diff flwoer tables on two diff schedules. so i cant assign 1 chiller to mix nutes in both rezs. and weve been studying the heat build up (btus put off by the chillers) and the power consumption between smaller eco units or large commercial units. ill let u know wat else i find out

 

[Bobby Smith]

Thanks kiddo; found a guy selling a 1/3HP Current chiller that I think I'm gonna pickup.

I'd LOVE to do DTW, but I don't think the 4" vertical PVC allows enough root mass to make that a feasible option.

A vertical NFT lets me supply much less root space and still be able to grow the plants the size that I'll need them - also will be a more efficient and fine-tuned system, allowing (if everything works properly) the plants to grow faster.

I'd GLADLY give up the increased speed for the safety and less maintenance of a DTW if it was feasible for my idea - I'm still brainstorming 24/7 (I'm so close to my room being setup that I'm in full fledged mad scientist mode and haven't slept for the past week), so we'll see what happens :)

 

[Integra21]

i decided against using the Attain TR bug bomb this late in flower. Attain TR im told is a follow up bug bomb that is not as strong and doesnt leave as much residue. Its a follow up bomb after the pyrethum bomb. so makes sense why Int would be able to use it with like 4 weeks of flower left and no or little residue. im gonna pull in about 3 weeks so i dont want to chance it.

I went ahead lowered my room temps
Night; 63*
Day 75*
-runnin c02 @ 900ppm

The mites seem to have slowed down and their numbers lessened drastically. so hopefully i can keep them in check til harvest.

If thats the guys at the store, they are giving you the wrong info about the bombs. The 2 different kinds are equally strong, its just as simple as the Pyretrin is ment for vegatative use and early flower and the Attain is meant for late flower. I used one of the pyrithrin ones in the veg room, and since my mite were immune to it it only slowed them down. But I set it off in flower and veg with the Attain and both sets were mite free instantly. I think the Attain is stronger, just lower residue. They were just trying to sell you or had no idea what they were talking about if they told you that you needed to use both. The attain is all that is needed. And you just have to let the herb sit for 4 weeks before you smoke it. It doesnt have to be alive for the pesticide to break down. Hope this helps, and Im not saying you have to use one before harvest, but I would definetly set one Attain off in there after harvest and clean all of your equipment like a mofo.

 

[Boomer242]

Thanks kiddo; found a guy selling a 1/3HP Current chiller that I think I'm gonna pickup.

I'd LOVE to do DTW, but I don't think the 4" vertical PVC allows enough root mass to make that a feasible option.

A vertical NFT lets me supply much less root space and still be able to grow the plants the size that I'll need them - also will be a more efficient and fine-tuned system, allowing (if everything works properly) the plants to grow faster.

I'd GLADLY give up the increased speed for the safety and less maintenance of a DTW if it was feasible for my idea - I'm still brainstorming 24/7 (I'm so close to my room being setup that I'm in full fledged mad scientist mode and haven't slept for the past week), so we'll see what happens :)

trust me i know wat u mean about not sleeping. before my room was up i was sleeping like 4hrs a nite up at 6am working already like a crackhead then work til 2am. lol
-its not healthy i lost a shitload of weight haha.

anyways i forgot that ure doin nft vert and all that ish. i havent had a chance to catchup in ur journal to see what u finally decided. but the recirc in that system shouldnt be as big a deal since from wat i understand the water is pushed thru not just flood drain recirc rite? either way ill have to see how things work out.

good find on the chiller too :passingjoint:

 

[Boomer242]

If thats the guys at the store, they are giving you the wrong info about the bombs. The 2 different kinds are equally strong, its just as simple as the Pyretrin is ment for vegatative use and early flower and the Attain is meant for late flower. I used one of the pyrithrin ones in the veg room, and since my mite were immune to it it only slowed them down. But I set it off in flower and veg with the Attain and both sets were mite free instantly. I think the Attain is stronger, just lower residue. They were just trying to sell you or had no idea what they were talking about if they told you that you needed to use both. The attain is all that is needed. And you just have to let the herb sit for 4 weeks before you smoke it. It doesnt have to be alive for the pesticide to break down. Hope this helps, and Im not saying you have to use one before harvest, but I would definetly set one Attain off in there after harvest and clean all of your equipment like a mofo.

my buddy actually works at the shop, he was the one who originally suggested to use the bomb and not forbid but another rep swore by the forbid and gave me realworld use stories. just like wat ure sayin, uve tired tested and found the attain works for u. they werent trying to sell me anything. weve spent over $100k there, $30 for a bomb isnt gonna break the bank lol. he wouldnt even sell me the bomb. haha thats how set he was on his theory. but oh well the mites seem to slowed down but i still see sum moving so ill monitor them for now.

im building out the shop and do bomb between every rotation/harvest of veg to flower etc.
-ill be thoroughly bleachin and cleaning all my gear and moving everything to start sterile and fresh at the shop. im buying lab suits and goin overkill on this shit.
:cool0010:

 

[Boomer242]

Flower Room & Veg Room Update

Flower Room;
Table 1-
PH @ 5.7
PPM @ 700
Rez temp @ 72*

Table 2-
PH @ 6.0
PPM @ 1100
Rez temp @ 72*

Room Temps;
Day @ 75* 55%
Night @ 65* 60-65%

I did a 3 day flush to make sure i got all the build up out of the RW. ive been testing my runoff more consitantly this round to make sure the flush is "rinse til clean."
Hope it makes a diff this round.


Veg room;
Veg table-
PH @ 6.0
PPM @ 500
Rez temp @ 73*
Flood and drain system
Room Temp @ 74* 50%

42x OG x Bubba clones
24x Master x Bubba clones
2x Diablo OG (they survived Bterz)
-All these will be vegged for about 3 weeks (12" tall), supercropped and transplanted into a new medium style i want to try out;

-1/2 hydroton
1/2 rockwool crutons
-In 3 gal pots doing drain to waist
-I plan to run 32plants each 4'x8' table instead of currently; 18plants per 4x8 table.
-I plan to do another scrog but make use of my light footprint better without vegging long for a true scrog effect. i mite keep the same netting and use just for support. still not sure what i want to do yet.

The new Scion system is makin me a lot happier then that crappy ass waterfarm bucket system did. i had to mod that thing like 3 diff times to get it to work. believe it or not but it actually had a good rootzone. not great, good.
-Anyways the new setup is 16x 3gal pots filled half way up with rockwool crutons for an airy medium. i stacked the prevegged clones in 4" RW cubes onto the crutons and just wait for them to veg another month and im ready for more clippings. this setup will be hand fed which is the only downside of switching out the waterfarm system.
The new mothers are;
-SFV
-Pre '98 Bubba

The old OG Bubba mothers donated 72 last cuttings to be cloned and ready for future rounds or to be donated to the collective. I chopped them down and was happy to bury them with that waterfarm system. :boogie::friday:


I used a pyrethum fog bomb to help clean out the room.
Using 3x 16" wall oscillating fans
14,000 btu AC dual ducting
10,000 btu AC single ducting
Air cooled hoods with 755cfm oracle fan

1000w MH hortilux over the 4x4 veg table with lumitek ballasts.
400w MH lamp over scion area



I was finally able to find the right fittings i needed to finish the chiller and run the tubing. Im testing it right now to see the heat build up. it puts off 10,000btu and i dont have any AC in the immediate location to help neutralize the heat. best i can do is throw a fan on it or leave a door/window open. i dont want to move it or do a temp exhaust setup cuz its coming rite bak down in 3 weeks.
I think im crazy for hookin up the chiller to run the last few weeks but it was good to learn while i can afford the fuk ups and fig i mite get sum purple out of the deal if i get the water chilled enough. so we will see. Goin from a rez temp of 80* in the beginning to now about 75* to a potential 53*-65* range... hope it does sumthing positive lol.


New gear-
Just received my Attitude seed bank order;
30x Power kush Feminized seeds by Dinafem
-been known to flower in 45 days and pack on mad weight. fruity aroma. im stoked. so got to pop these when the time is right.


For the shop setup, the new plans are looking sumthing like this;

Flower room (30'x24')
-6x UCXXL13 25" center systems (96 buckets total)
-(1) 1000w per 4 buckets
- each 1000w will alternate 1000w Dual Arc/ Super HPS
-2HP chiller with 6 cooling coils to chill water temps.
-10 tons AC
-5x 150 can carbon filters
-15x Infinity breeze fans
-Adjust a wing reflectors
-ScrOG cultivation method
-Heavy 16 nute lineup (thanks Field 16)
-Flower testing by CannaChemistry.com

theres more info but ill save sum for later. anyways heres the weekly update with the night shots. boomskeet stylie :boogie:



1HP chiller

http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0749.jpg

3/4" tubing to 1/4" coolig coil thermal tubing.
Cooled intake and lukewarm return.


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0750.jpg


Table 1;

http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0751.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0752.jpg

http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0753.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0754.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0755.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0756.jpg



http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0757.jpg



http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0758.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0761.jpg

Table 2


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0762.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0763.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0764.jpg

http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0765.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0766.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0767.jpg



http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0768.jpg

http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0772.jpg


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0773.jpg



Veg Room;


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0774.jpg


Scions


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0775.jpg



http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0776.jpg

Bitches gettin a tan


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0777.jpg



http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0778.jpg




This is a new product that Greencoast gave to me as a tester. Its similar to the Gognats product but targets several other insects. I have to read up on the brochure and website to learn more but ill get u guys sum feedback when i get sum.


http://i837.invalid.com/albums/zz299/BudLust/IMG_0779.jpg

 

[HigherThenHigh]

Sweet setup brother.. Funny all the cheese you've invested in your operation and your using concrete blocks for a table and still a humidity dome.. But to each his own.. Keep up the good work

 

[CelticEBE]

Lookin good. I never thought to take pics at night but I really like the way your pics came out.

Did you get a UC?

 

[Bobby Smith]

Boom, like the update.

1) You're gonna love going half hydroton/half rockwool - gonna allow you to feed a couple more times and day and will certainly increase your growth rates and yield.

2) Sounds like you acknowledged that you're just kinda "messing with it" (for practice for your shop op, I'd imagine), but I think a chiller (especially that size) for a DTW operation is probably not needed - for medium-less systems (aero, DWC, NFT) you *certainly* need one, but since you're using it to mess with the root temps to bring out colors, it is what it is.

Not sure it's worth the heat generated and electricity consumed for your app, though.

3) Those Power Kush beans sound like the tits; might have to cop me some of those.

4) Shop sounds like it's gonna be a badass setup.

 

[Boomer242]

Sweet setup brother.. Funny all the cheese you've invested in your operation and your using concrete blocks for a table and still a humidity dome.. But to each his own.. Keep up the good work

Takes money to make money, and a smart business man invests in the right equip and saves on the shit that doesnt matter... when ure spending $20k on a home project ull learn to use wat makes more sense then hand building DIY shit or spending $$ on outragiously overpriced hydro equip.

Im not sure what angle you're coming at with the compliments then sarcasism?
Plz inform us what else should i be using for 100% RH in my clone dome?

Since im spending $100k on my warehouse id like to know where i should spend my money on the little shit that doesnt matter. thanks

Lookin good. I never thought to take pics at night but I really like the way your pics came out.

Did you get a UC?

I run my lights on 12am-12pm for air cooling temps to be lowest. so my work day is in the dark with my green lights. using my DSLR at night changing the settings to tungsten gets a pretty trippy look at night so u can see everything with the flash. doesnt require as much light to reflect back to be seen like a normal flash. i think? lol

No need for the UC systems yet til the shop is done. still deciding if im running 6x 16site UC systems or 5 systems. issue is the damn plant count im tryin to stay low but i meet with my attorney this week to see what we can do. teamin up w/ 3 collectives to get covered for more. so we will see where things go.

Boom, like the update.

1) You're gonna love going half hydroton/half rockwool - gonna allow you to feed a couple more times and day and will certainly increase your growth rates and yield.

2) Sounds like you acknowledged that you're just kinda "messing with it" (for practice for your shop op, I'd imagine), but I think a chiller (especially that size) for a DTW operation is probably not needed - for medium-less systems (aero, DWC, NFT) you *certainly* need one, but since you're using it to mess with the root temps to bring out colors, it is what it is.

Not sure it's worth the heat generated and electricity consumed for your app, though.

3) Those Power Kush beans sound like the tits; might have to cop me some of those.

4) Shop sounds like it's gonna be a badass setup.

1) glad to hear sumone else likes this medium choice. its sumthing ive been messin with in my head for a while. just makes more sense to me if i want better rhizosphere

2) from day 1 here i knew id be changing shit around cuz im crzy like that and once my attorney suggested a warehouse instead, i was all over that shit. saving that type of funds isnt easy but i hustle everyday.
The chiller was bought with the shop in mind brotha. def wouldnt need this size for a small house app for most but i can boast that my water temps are @ 54* :joint:
so kiss my ass pathogens!
this 1hp chiller will be for my veg room setup and use the cooling coils. the new 2HP chillking wil power 5-6 cooling coils for the UC setup @ the shop.
like u said tho, its more for practice and understanding everything. i truely believe no one can just "take a class" and learn everything. u need to learn from handson shit. I consider myself an OG as many on here should. "original grower" that had to teach himself and learn everything about HVAC/Elect/cultivation/genetics/hydro/soil/botany/commercial agriculture/business managemnet, marketing, distribution, etc. i could go one forever how much it takes for this entity to run.

-im not worried about the power (hints all the shit i run ; $1800/month in elect lol )
-I also was able to create a fresh air intake directly in front of the chiller. now that its cooled the rez to my prefered temp the chiller is on standby putting off NO heat and the garage is normal temp. so im not stressing. (remember i know better then to stick the chiller in my growrooms...)


3) i wouldnt go as far to say the power kush is sumthing rare elite and amazing but its solid and fast. im just tired of chasing down cuttings and pretending to know where they came from. i have no idea wat genetics are behind wat and i want to choose my own pheno


4) hope it will be if it ever gets finished ggez lol

 

[Bobby Smith]

Takes money to make money, and a smart business man invests in the right equip and saves on the shit that doesnt matter... when ure spending $20k on a home project ull learn to use wat makes more sense then hand building DIY shit or spending $$ on outragiously overpriced hydro equip.

Cosign on that - I bought an EZ Clone three weeks ago and just finished taking 144 clones.................in Jiffy Pellets and two humidity domes.

Technology isn't always all it's cracked up to - sometimes simpler is better, and I'm also all about the DIY these days - bought $1K worth of PVC yesterday, gonna go do the same tomorrow.

I read a quote from some guy that said "the only people who truly understand their systems are the ones who build it themselves", and that kinda stuck with me.

Saving up $100K for your shop setup, huh? That's quite the investment - good luck with all that, bro.

EDIT: Yeah Boom, totally feel you on the whole chiller thing and trying to learn with it and all that, and I know that you know that you don't need it - was more to let any noobs or anyone following along who might be trying to copy your setup that a chiller isn't *necessary* (but it's never a bad thing) with what you're doing.