A
A6 Grower
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the bomb sounds good, im about to move and start a new room or two. i think i might just start off with a bomb in each room and then do a good cleaning. Thanks intergra its always nice to find shit that actually works :)
the bomb sounds good, im about to move and start a new room or two. i think i might just start off with a bomb in each room and then do a good cleaning. Thanks intergra its always nice to find shit that actually works :)
Have you considered bug bombs. I tried just about every product on the market trying to get rid of mites when I got them, and I got it dialed down to the two that worked best for me. The first was Organocide. It is a spray that kills mites and eggs on contact and is organic and safe to use up to the day of harves. This product worked very well, but if your like me(you are) it is very hard to do a complete spray with plants in a scrog. Although this worked very well for controlling them, I could never seem to get rid of them completely. Thats when I went heavy duty and found a really good industrial strenght greenhouse bug bomb. I tried the pyrithrin one and it worked, but they came back, but then I tried the Attain version from the same company and I haven seen a mite since and my flower and veg rooms have been mite free for over 6mo's now. I just set one of those off in each room and they were gone forever. If you go the bomb route, let me know so I can tell you the proper safety precautions.
Organocide
Attain bug bomb(this is the brand, but pyrithrin is pictured)
funny thing is the whole debate between Forbid being terrible and bug bombs during flower is terrible... i see both sides of the arguement but im the one with the mites and dont want dead plants. i also dont want to die myself. lol.
we had the debate between whether to use Forbid or bug bombs at greencoast. the shop seems to be split on opinions of wats safe or ok to use and wat will actually work.
i have 6 bug bombs here (exactly the one u sent in the links) and will have to research more about using it during flower IF i were to ever use it. so if peeps have any Respectful comments and discussions about using bug bombs during flower plz share ur thoughts and experience for myself and everyone who will have future mite issues.
thanks for the link Int! im gonna shoot u a PM
the stats for drying temps sounds about right if i recall. ill look in my books before i make a decision.
for my two flower tables, i have 2x70gal rez underneath. honestly im still testing my watering schedule. it varies so idk exact gallons used per day. if id have to guess itd be sumthing like 10gal? figuring that i usually never fill all the way to 70gallons in the rez and i change the rez out every week. so should break down to 10gal/day right? i hope i can still count geez haha.
the ph swing is usually my doing... i talked with jack and he informed me of a few things i was doing wrong...
1. i add PH down to adjust where i want almost immediately after i add my new nute reg.
2. i pour an "estimated" amount of PH up/down directly into the rez which is acid and oops my bad...
anyways he mentioned to dilute the ph solution in a seperate container/cup before tossin in the rez.
also my RO ph is high, usually about 8.0+ so originally i was also pourin straight PH solution into the RO 200gall rez downstairs, and allowing it to adjust to the PH level i desired (5.6-6.1)
-issue with this is....
once i pump the fresh RO water from the 200gal rez up into the flower room rez, i also still need to add my nutes. When adding nutes theyre acidic and bring the PH down. Now lets say i put fresh RO in my emtpy 70gal rez and the PH is 6.0, then i add my nutes, it could b lik 4.5 or sum shit. then u gotta add UP then DOWN etc. ive overdone the ph up/down in my first round and saw sum bad results with it. this round ive been better about it but what the point of this rambling is that u should leave ur RO ph stasis then add ur nutes, wait a while and see where the PH swings too. this should help stabilize the rez ph. i havent done this enough myself to say its compeltely true, but im sure it is. anyways the other concept is that cannabis uptakes diff macro/micro nutes at diff stages in life and the uptake availability is based on the ph of thesolution. so letting ur rez swing from 5.5-6.3 is almost a good thing to allow the plant to uptake all possible nutes being fed. thats the theory at least and im testing it.
now im lookin bak laughin at how much i jsut wrote. hope it answered ur question if not plz ask again lol.
The ones pictured are Pyrethrin based bombs and have a heavy residue that may effect your taste. You want that exact brand, but it says Attain which is the active ingredient. Not only is it lower residue and much more suitable for use in flower, but since it is Attain based, if you have Pyrethrin resistant mites it will kill the shit out of them. Mine were resistant from trying all of the sprays I could get my hands on(Azamax, Bang, Dont Bug Me, Einstien Oil(Neem), No Pest Srips, and organocide) but one bomb in veg and flower room and I havent seen the little bastards in 6 months. I used it in the flower room at week 5. And my room is much lower volume than yours. And after harvest, the bud still smelled and tasted great, and smokes smooth. I have been smoking on that herb for 6 months with no negative anything from it. here's a pic of the can...
http://www.invalid.com/members/integra21-157637-albums-6th-grow-madonna-hericules-dual-600w-water-cooled-co2-shallow-dwc-technaflora-nutrients-picture1148170-dscn1383-1.jpg
Lol, I think you answered it, but I'm not 100% sure.
Kinda my fault for asking your watering schedule - pointless question because we'll be using totally different media, so my bads.
I do agree with what Jack said - when I added my nutes to my RO water, I didn't have to pH it at all because it'd always come out to 5.6-5.8 (using Lucas formula with FloraNova).
Anyhow, the question I meant to ask the first time is this:
1) With a recirculating system, the pH swings that I've encountered do not allow me to leave the system unattended for a week+ at a time because the pH would shoot from 5.6 to 6.8 or 7 within a week's time - what kind of swing is there in a DTW reservoir?
So it's Sunday, you changeout your reservoir, set the pH to 5.6 and leave for a week............when you come back, your pH will be ____?
I realize it's not gonna be anywhere near 7 like it might be with a recirculating system, but does it stay exactly at 5.6 or will it generally creep up, but just slower?
Sorry for the lengthy question.
Thanks Boom, really good info there.
Switching topics slightly, how did you decide what size chiller you needed?
Trying to figure all that out now - I'm assuming since you're running DTW that your chiller requirements per gallon would be less than someone (like me) who was going to be running a recirculating reservoir (yup, back on that kick now) - figure I'm gonna shoot for about a 60 gallon reservoir, and I can't figure out what size chiller to get.
Debating between a 1/10 or 1/4HP model - seems like your 1HP chiller is SUPER overkill for two sedentary 70 gallon reservoirs, no?
Anyhow, I'm sure you know this already but it's worth repeating - properly insulating your reservoir will dramatically lower the necessary cooling from the chiller, saving you lots of energy $$$s.
If thats the guys at the store, they are giving you the wrong info about the bombs. The 2 different kinds are equally strong, its just as simple as the Pyretrin is ment for vegatative use and early flower and the Attain is meant for late flower. I used one of the pyrithrin ones in the veg room, and since my mite were immune to it it only slowed them down. But I set it off in flower and veg with the Attain and both sets were mite free instantly. I think the Attain is stronger, just lower residue. They were just trying to sell you or had no idea what they were talking about if they told you that you needed to use both. The attain is all that is needed. And you just have to let the herb sit for 4 weeks before you smoke it. It doesnt have to be alive for the pesticide to break down. Hope this helps, and Im not saying you have to use one before harvest, but I would definetly set one Attain off in there after harvest and clean all of your equipment like a mofo.i decided against using the Attain TR bug bomb this late in flower. Attain TR im told is a follow up bug bomb that is not as strong and doesnt leave as much residue. Its a follow up bomb after the pyrethum bomb. so makes sense why Int would be able to use it with like 4 weeks of flower left and no or little residue. im gonna pull in about 3 weeks so i dont want to chance it.
I went ahead lowered my room temps
Night; 63*
Day 75*
-runnin c02 @ 900ppm
The mites seem to have slowed down and their numbers lessened drastically. so hopefully i can keep them in check til harvest.
Thanks kiddo; found a guy selling a 1/3HP Current chiller that I think I'm gonna pickup.
I'd LOVE to do DTW, but I don't think the 4" vertical PVC allows enough root mass to make that a feasible option.
A vertical NFT lets me supply much less root space and still be able to grow the plants the size that I'll need them - also will be a more efficient and fine-tuned system, allowing (if everything works properly) the plants to grow faster.
I'd GLADLY give up the increased speed for the safety and less maintenance of a DTW if it was feasible for my idea - I'm still brainstorming 24/7 (I'm so close to my room being setup that I'm in full fledged mad scientist mode and haven't slept for the past week), so we'll see what happens :)
If thats the guys at the store, they are giving you the wrong info about the bombs. The 2 different kinds are equally strong, its just as simple as the Pyretrin is ment for vegatative use and early flower and the Attain is meant for late flower. I used one of the pyrithrin ones in the veg room, and since my mite were immune to it it only slowed them down. But I set it off in flower and veg with the Attain and both sets were mite free instantly. I think the Attain is stronger, just lower residue. They were just trying to sell you or had no idea what they were talking about if they told you that you needed to use both. The attain is all that is needed. And you just have to let the herb sit for 4 weeks before you smoke it. It doesnt have to be alive for the pesticide to break down. Hope this helps, and Im not saying you have to use one before harvest, but I would definetly set one Attain off in there after harvest and clean all of your equipment like a mofo.
Sweet setup brother.. Funny all the cheese you've invested in your operation and your using concrete blocks for a table and still a humidity dome.. But to each his own.. Keep up the good work
Lookin good. I never thought to take pics at night but I really like the way your pics came out.
Did you get a UC?
Boom, like the update.
1) You're gonna love going half hydroton/half rockwool - gonna allow you to feed a couple more times and day and will certainly increase your growth rates and yield.
2) Sounds like you acknowledged that you're just kinda "messing with it" (for practice for your shop op, I'd imagine), but I think a chiller (especially that size) for a DTW operation is probably not needed - for medium-less systems (aero, DWC, NFT) you *certainly* need one, but since you're using it to mess with the root temps to bring out colors, it is what it is.
Not sure it's worth the heat generated and electricity consumed for your app, though.
3) Those Power Kush beans sound like the tits; might have to cop me some of those.
4) Shop sounds like it's gonna be a badass setup.
Takes money to make money, and a smart business man invests in the right equip and saves on the shit that doesnt matter... when ure spending $20k on a home project ull learn to use wat makes more sense then hand building DIY shit or spending $$ on outragiously overpriced hydro equip.