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Need some help! Can't figure it out

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  • Start date Start date Sep 10, 2022
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Need some help! Can't figure it out

Namder Sep 10, 2022 155 Replies 14,828 Views
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Namder

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#81
Cjthegreat said:
Scratch this post I apparently didn't see your metal fan. I'm surprised that's not doing it for you honestly
Click to expand...

The bigger fan has only been in the tent a full day now. I think i may need to chill out and see what happens over the next couple of days
 
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Cjthegreat

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#82
Namder said:
The bigger fan has only been in the tent a full day now. I think i may need to chill out and see what happens over the next couple of days
Click to expand...
Yes but if your humidity drops to around 40 you'll know your really needing some water. Sounds like it needs some anyways but IV noticed it is always better to take things slow and try not to change to much at once. That fan could be your saving grace. They don't look very bad though honestly I still see why you was concerned though
 
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Namder

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#83
Cjthegreat said:
Also I was wondering why you got you carbon filter set on high temp when it's fairly low. Can you not take it off auto mode and just turn it on and maybe get better results possibly just wondering cause I run mine a bit different but my temps are always higher during the day and about what yours is during the day at night for me
Click to expand...
Has been running on 6 for the last couple days, my friend adjusted it as it was set at 75 for high temp so i think i need to adjust the low auto settings to be in line with the higher temp now. Totally agree with what youre saying, i was always under the impression that it needed to be circulating the air at a constant rate.
 
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Namder

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#84
Cjthegreat said:
Yes but if your humidity drops to around 40 you'll know your really needing some water. Sounds like it needs some anyways but IV noticed it is always better to take things slow and try not to change to much at once. That fan could be your saving grace. They don't look very bad though honestly I still see why you was concerned though
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up man, been racking my brain a bit. Will make sure to be careful with underwatering. Have you any tips for breaking surface tension of the soil? Soil seems quite dry and not easy to get a run off. Surprising because i have a good amount of perlight in the mix. Someone suggested a couple of drops of dish soap in my water, but reluctant to try this.
 
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Cjthegreat

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#85
That's what I would try as well. You could also try hydrogen peroxide h202 which helps airate the soil. I wouldn't use a whole bunch tho and you also want to dilute it about 20 percent peroxide and 80 water and spray on top of the soil before watering and see if that helps. Dawn dish soap works great as well and is perfectly safe for your plants as well
 
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#86
One thing to keep in mind though is the h202 kills all bacteria in the soil as well good and bad so you may want to consider your circumstances before jumping on that. Do you have any stores in your area where you can purchase something like peat moss or spegetium or something like that or coco coir. All those will help give it more of a fluff. Also I would go around and kind of push the sides of each plant in where the cloth pots are to kinda loosen it up
 
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#87
Coco coir is what I normally use but I normally don't have to much issues with my soil getting super compact. How often do you water?
 
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MIGrampaUSA

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#88
Cjthegreat said:
Coco coir is what I normally use but I normally don't have to much issues with my soil getting super compact. How often do you water?
Click to expand...
@Cjthegreat please go back and read the whole thread from the beginning so you know the history going on here. We've been trying to warm up the plants in the root zone. Under normal circumstances with a healthy plant, yes mid to low 60's in the soil is tolerable although not ideal. We would like to get his night time temps around 70F for a few days. It's been a struggle because his grow is in an area that is being added on and the structure has not been completed ... that's why its been kind of an "outside but inside" grow. To my knowledge his plants have not been out of his tent. Lets get the vpd issue fixed before we do a lot of watering. There's probably some root rot involved as well.

@Namder I see that the plants are still sitting in the tray. You've got to get the bottom of those pots out of the tray so that there's airflow all around them. I do see some improvement though. The leaves don't look quite as swollen in the veins as they did the other day. I do think there's been progress. And yes, if you have some power left to spare on your lights, turn them up some more even if you have to raise them to do so. Your plants don't want a lot of light intensity right now because they're not feeling good. You're making progress, but you're not quite to the other side. It won't be too much longer though. There's signs that they are breaking through.
 
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MIGrampaUSA

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#89
Namder said:
Has been running on 6 for the last couple days, my friend adjusted it as it was set at 75 for high temp so i think i need to adjust the low auto settings to be in line with the higher temp now. Totally agree with what youre saying, i was always under the impression that it needed to be circulating the air at a constant rate.
Click to expand...
Exchanging air and circulating air are not the same. Your carbon filter system can be hooked through a temperature controller so it only kicks on to exhaust the heat/humidity and exchange the air. Circulating air (fans that move air inside the tent) should be run 24/7.
 
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Cjthegreat

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#90
Do you use any type of mycorrhizae? Great white is what I use. Plants don’t give up their valuable sugar resources just for the fun of growing fungus gardens. They get a lot of things in return from the mycorrhizae, mostly in the form of nutrients.

Plants are able to get nutrients themselves through their roots, but they have a limited ability to do so. Their roots need to be in direct contact with the soil to absorb the nutrients, and plant roots only grow so small. Fungi, on the other hand, can get much smaller. Fungal hyphae can wedge in between individual bits of soil to cover almost every available cubic millimeter of soil. This increases surface area and allows the plants much greater access to nutrients than they could get by themselves. For many plants living under difficult conditions, they wouldn’t be able to survive at all without mycorrhizae. This little article may help understand what it should be implemented for, it builds a symbiotic relationship with the roots and forms a webbing that webs through your soul like a basket and helps to deliver the nutrients more efficiently throughout the whole plant. I bet if you use it and take care of the fungi you wouldn't have that problem anymore
 
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MIGrampaUSA

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#91
Cjthegreat said:
Do you use any type of mycorrhizae? Great white is what I use. Plants don’t give up their valuable sugar resources just for the fun of growing fungus gardens. They get a lot of things in return from the mycorrhizae, mostly in the form of nutrients.

Plants are able to get nutrients themselves through their roots, but they have a limited ability to do so. Their roots need to be in direct contact with the soil to absorb the nutrients, and plant roots only grow so small. Fungi, on the other hand, can get much smaller. Fungal hyphae can wedge in between individual bits of soil to cover almost every available cubic millimeter of soil. This increases surface area and allows the plants much greater access to nutrients than they could get by themselves. For many plants living under difficult conditions, they wouldn’t be able to survive at all without mycorrhizae. This little article may help understand what it should be implemented for, it builds a symbiotic relationship with the roots and forms a webbing that webs through your soul like a basket and helps to deliver the nutrients more efficiently throughout the whole plant. I bet if you use it and take care of the fungi you wouldn't have that problem anymore
Click to expand...

Great White really is a good product, but its more of a root innoculant and not a tea. I've used it and its especially good if used from the get go right at the start. Same idea, only using a product like mykos or recharge or (my favorite) Microbe Blast. These are geared towards a microbe tea and would likely provide more benefit now since application is much easier. You just mix it up with plain water (no chlorine), aerate it to super saturate it with O2 for 8 - 12, no more than 24hrs and water it in. I'm 100% behind what you've said about microbes though. Usually I have Great White handy but I ran out. I'll be getting more soon when I shift to indoor.

@Namder if you have any of these products handy. It's a good idea during next watering.

Edit: It's not magic fairy pixie dust ... an end all to all things. It won't bring dead plants back to life ... but it will help provide a healthy environment for the roots and boost its nutrition for sure. My plants look like they are on viagra after a dose of microbes. All leaves are happily absorbing as much light as they can.
 
Last edited: Sep 13, 2022
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Cjthegreat

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#92
Yeah I never use it as a tea. Always sprinkle it on the growing roots during transplant. It's definitely not a cure all and if you haven't been using it you need to transplant in my opinion. But all it does is spread the roots more evenly through dirt like a webbing and it definitely will make your plants grow with some vigor
 
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MIGrampaUSA

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#93
Cjthegreat said:
Yeah I never use it as a tea. Always sprinkle it on the growing roots during transplant. It's definitely not a cure all and if you haven't been using it you need to transplant in my opinion. But all it does is spread the roots more evenly through dirt like a webbing and it definitely will make your plants grow with some vigor
Click to expand...

Transplanting is a great idea. As long as he still concentrates on getting the environment under control. Without the environment fix, we'll be heading back down the rabbit hole before too long.
 
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Glomus

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#94
MIGrampaUSA said:
Great White really is a good product, but its more of a root innoculant and not a tea. I've used it and its especially good if used from the get go right at the start. Same idea, only using a product like mykos or recharge or (my favorite) Microbe Blast. These are geared towards a microbe tea and would likely provide more benefit now since application is much easier. You just mix it up with plain water (no chlorine), aerate it to super saturate it with O2 for 8 - 12, no more than 24hrs and water it in. I'm 100% behind what you've said about microbes though. Usually I have Great White handy but I ran out. I'll be getting more soon when I shift to indoor.

@Namder if you have any of these products handy. It's a good idea during next watering.

Edit: It's not magic fairy pixie dust ... an end all to all things. It won't bring dead plants back to life ... but it will help provide a healthy environment for the roots and boost its nutrition for sure. My plants look like they are on viagra after a dose of microbes. All leaves are happily absorbing as much light as they can.
Click to expand...
No you can use things like Great White as a foliar spray for disease remediation. It is true that the earlier you inoculate the better but established plants definitely benefit from root inoculation but I would not inoculate during flower, I know people do but its more advanced and for when you are doing a top dress and trying to get more root stimulation on the surface on the soil medium. You don't want to use Great White as a microbe feeding "tea" because it's designed to suppress specific microbes which may compete with or get in the way of the Mycorrhizae actually germinating and infecting the roots. Thats why it can be used as a foliar for disease on the foliage. I can also do this if you have a root rot issue. I personally don't apply a high microbial tea to my soil after inoculation because I already have the microbes I want in there and I just keep feeding them. Also adding those high population of Microbes eats away at the Glomalin in the soil. The soil already has a balance it likes you just need to feed that.

Also, transplanting out of smart pot is not something I would recommend.
 
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Glomus

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#95
Like I said originally they look like they need water, Transpiration and humidity will come into play once these plants get bigger.
 
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#96
@Namder one thing I would remind you of is that you gona want to flip them before you think you do, don't get greedy cuz they have the fastest and biggest growth during those first to weeks of flower. They will like almost double in size and if you have any height restrictions your gona have a bad time.
 
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#97
Namder said:
Thanks for the heads up man, been racking my brain a bit. Will make sure to be careful with underwatering. Have you any tips for breaking surface tension of the soil? Soil seems quite dry and not easy to get a run off. Surprising because i have a good amount of perlight in the mix. Someone suggested a couple of drops of dish soap in my water, but reluctant to try this.
Click to expand...
This means the soil is too dry. You shouldn't let it get like that, just slowly water a tiny bit at a time to rehydrate the surface of the soil a bit, you shouldn't have to worry about surface tension at this stage, it's too dry. Especially with that amount of perlite in those soil mixes, I feel like those grow soils are almost 60%-70% perlite! lol another good reason to use a cover crop, I've seen people for it for small indoor grows. But yeah with those aerated felt pots you will get plenty of drainage and more oxygen, versus growing in a plastic drainless which you do have to worry about over watering much more.
After they perk back up you could give them a little kelp to stimulate new root growth if you lost any root mass from the dry soil. If you think they have root rot, which I don't, then inoculation will definitely help that.

Why are you worried about getting run off at this point?
 
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Glomus

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#98
Sorry to post so many messages but, best investment, a simple moisture probe cuts out the guess work. Stick in it in your root zone and never wonder again if it's over or under watered.
 
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Namder

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#99
Glomus said:
This means the soil is too dry. You shouldn't let it get like that, just slowly water a tiny bit at a time to rehydrate the surface of the soil a bit, you shouldn't have to worry about surface tension at this stage, it's too dry. Especially with that amount of perlite in those soil mixes, I feel like those grow soils are almost 60%-70% perlite! lol After they perk back up you could give them a little kelp to stimulate new root growth if you lost any root mass from the dry soil. Why are you worried about getting run off at this point?
Click to expand...
Yeah i see what youre saying. I have maybe 30% perlight in the mix. I feel like the top is saturated but the sides and below are bone dry. So worried that im not actually getting water to the roots below and causing the soil to dry out to a point where the roots die too. I have 2 analog moisture probes, both reading under halfway to dry on each plant. So from what i have been advised through out. My guess is that the plant is too wet on transfer and maybe because the soil tension hasnt broken and the plant is not drying out inside? I am not sure, seems a lil farfetched...
 
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#100
Namder said:
Yeah i see what youre saying. I have maybe 30% perlight in the mix. I feel like the top is saturated but the sides and below are bone dry. So worried that im not actually getting water to the roots below and causing the soil to dry out to a point where the roots die too. I have 2 analog moisture probes, both reading under halfway to dry on each plant. So from what i have been advised through out. My guess is that the plant is too wet on transfer and maybe because the soil tension hasnt broken and the plant is not drying out inside? I am not sure, seems a lil farfetched...
Click to expand...
Don't be afraid to water them. You're watering them like a bucket grow. With those pots they will get air and not water log, thats probably why the edges and bottom are so dry. Those roots are still getting established and I think you will see more transpiration once they do. Its good to have control over the moisture in the soil but I honestly lean towards over watering a bit versus under watering cuz its hard to tell sometimes if you have dry pockets in the soil medium. Just me.

Those pots are awesome for this exact set up, the roots will air prune, its not like they will get root bound and rot in these pots. Actually when they are drawing much more water from the soil you might need to put a dish under them to absorb the water more evenly because with all those roots and the fact they will be drinking a lot more, the surface tension will get much higher. If you are having issues with surface tension right now I don't think you've been watering enough. Depending on your temps and air exchange....
 
Last edited: Sep 14, 2022
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Replies 155
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Started Sep 10, 2022
Latest post Sep 16, 2022
Starter Namder
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