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Under Current RDWC GDP x AK47 First Grow

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Under Current RDWC GDP x AK47 First Grow

Green Escape 131 Replies 40,198 Views
Page 5 of 7 · Replies 81–100 of 132
How many watts overhead do you have spinning... sorry if it was answered earlier in the thread
 
shady - im liking the spinners until im working on my plants and the spinner smacks me in the back of the head. lol. the under current really isnt that loud the only noise is the movement of the water and its not bad. tex they're flipped chillin under 12/12 for the third day now thanks for checking in. ziggy im running half my lights for now so i've got 3100 watts over them right now.
 
ok im about 8 days in to flower pretty sure i got rid of the root aphids but still keeping an eye out for those fuckers. i started to get the claw on a couple of leaves then next thing you know it was getting worse and i started to see a lil bit of burn on em i did a res change and brought the ppms down from 850's to the 600's. i also added some hygrozyme to the mix because i was noticing some decaying roots not sure if it was from to high of ppm's the root aphids or from what i used to get rid of the root aphids. im still waiting for my extra lights to fill in the lil blank spot i have so 4 of them still arent getting the light they need. im also looking for a goof humidifier for the flower room which is 17x12 anybody know of some good ones? here are some picks from yesterday. please critique me let me know what i can be doing better.
 

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Ride your ph like a hawk, thats the trick, the plants can easily take the high ppm's if your always in your optimum ph range..

I ran the system at 4000ppm last week for a day or so untill they ate it down to around 1600ppm, right now I am at 1500ppm at week 6 and they are just eatin up a storm at about 400-500ppm a night.

Tex
 
Nice looking set up. Looks like something ain't right, what's your stats....plants look like they're slightly toxified.

Probably need to adjust the pH cause they look malnourished and they shouldn't.
 
ge- tk is right as usual stay on that ph. you should be able to keep the ppm s high. you will figure it out in a few runs you'll have it down. if you can i would add a bunch of lights to that room.

take care
t.o.med
 
i've been keeping it at 5.8 im bumping it up tp 6.0 for a lil bit. i havent had any fluctuations goin on so maybe i've just had it a lil to low?
 
Its weird the UC eats so many PPMs, because with DD system my ppm's and ph stay the same, but there is about 160gals of water. Im thinking with the UC they arent actually eating those PPMs its just the water that is added back is dropping it down. I wonder if they have any lines that are going to have a bigger res to keep things a little more stable it seems they are tweeking their design on the regs
 
Its weird the UC eats so many PPMs, because with DD system my ppm's and ph stay the same, but there is about 160gals of water. Im thinking with the UC they arent actually eating those PPMs its just the water that is added back is dropping it down. I wonder if they have any lines that are going to have a bigger res to keep things a little more stable it seems they are tweeking their design on the regs

yes, if you have auto/float valve water level then that will lower PPM without you realizing it.
 
Mine feeds off of a 200 gallon r/o holding tank setup..

The auto float definately makes the ppm decrease but they eat alot as well..

I have been runnin my ph at 6.0-6.1 or so on the float..

Tex
 
....This just in.....

This seemed like a good question to call and ask the UC folks so here's what they told me.

Its recommended to use a top off reservoir filled with balanced (pH'd, EC'd) nutrient solution connected directly to the float valve for top off.

This is intended to keep the nutrient solution in the system more stable and avoiding the up and down fluctuations that can happen when topping off water only.

The guy I talked to was named Daniel, he also mentioned that different growers develope their own top off styles that suit them best.


Looks to me like TK has developed a style that seems to be working very well....I know we all look forward to more pics TK. :)
 
....This just in.....

This seemed like a good question to call and ask the UC folks so here's what they told me.

Its recommended to use a top off reservoir filled with balanced (pH'd, EC'd) nutrient solution connected directly to the float valve for top off.

This is intended to keep the nutrient solution in the system more stable and avoiding the up and down fluctuations that can happen when topping off water only.

The guy I talked to was named Daniel, he also mentioned that different growers develope their own top off styles that suit them best.


Looks to me like TK has developed a style that seems to be working very well....I know we all look forward to more pics TK. :)

great idea, I didn't think to have the float feed res be using nutrient solution.
 
texas kid- how long do you add back for until you make up a new batch of nutes and and refill your system?
 
Hey this h&g fert where can i find this at? is it as good as fox farm?


Looking good what a sick setup im act going to book mark this bc i had a issue also with my DWC grow the plant turned yellowish green....etc etc.. ;[ ahh
 
Aight update time... roots are looking way better plants are looking healthier everyday other than that i found a tiny spot of powdery mildew so im working to rid that asap using an light organic foliar spray and a sulfur burner used as minimal as possible. my new ac (fujitsu 30 clx) comes in this week sometime super stoked about that but not the price. let me know what you guys think please critique on anything i can be doin better. ppms are in the 750's ph 6.0 air temp 78-80 day 67-70 night res temps 68-70 rh 35-45%. gonna start running co2 and my other system once the ac gets here.
 

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lookin much better couple grows youll have this system down. i would try pushing nutes little at a time until you see curling then back off a bit.
 
Just a few stumbles and now your off to the races, lookin much better maing....

So far i have been extreamly impressed with the system in a few different configurations...

My main pump is starting to go out already and that pisses me off but oh well, what are ya goin to do???

Tex
 
Texas Kid?

Thought you'd fallin into one of your jungles never to be seen again.

Hit up CC, they'll replace your faulty pump with a quickness....they did mine. You might check to see if it isn't just some debris(rock, misc. crap disrupting the impellers).

If it's the air pump you might just need a diaphragm rebuild kit. They told me to elevate the air pump above 4 feet to increase it's life span.

Can't imagine you doing this until harvest cause that gardens blown up.:mad0233:
 
thanks for checkin in guys. TO- im bumping up the ppms slowly this week to see how they react they should be ready to roll now and i have another batch vegged a lil longer goin in my other system so i feel quite a bit more prepared for this batch. TK- i've had to take my pumps apart a couple times and clean the damn hydroton getting in there but they keep on truckin when clean. i had one go out and i took it in to a local hydro store and they replaced it straight up because they all have 1 or 2 year warranties. tex you have any little tips for the end of the run lil things i might over look?
 
I think the problem with my pump is that the rootmass is cloggin the little 3/4" ball valve that is in line on the pump return line, then it pulls a vacuum every once in awhile causing the pump to sputter and clack alot...

The air pump is golden but i will work on the return pump a bit...i don't like how the line runs right down the center of the system which makes it impossible to service late in flower..I am goin to upgrade my pump from the get go this next run.

Tex
 
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