Help needed ASAP!!!! What am I doing wrong???

[PK1]

also, give me your current readings. Not yesterdays or four hours a go

 

[Gdawwwg]

I just washed them in tap water and then let them soak in what I. Thought was ph5. 5 water but was in fact 7+

Now I'm. Wondering has that cause lockout. Because I can't. For the life of me figure out what's going wrong everything else seems fine

 

[Gdawwwg]

also, give me your current readings. Not yesterdays or four hours a go

Ahhh man I can't get to them. Right now iv just left and they are at a friend's house

Tommorow when I check in on them I will get everything you have asked and send it all over

 

[Gdawwwg]

The 1 plant has decent roots(in pic) the rest are just poking out the bottom now.

I started with the water level just touching the bottom. Layer of clay pebbles in. The pot

When I was advised by the guy who supplied the clones to. Up. The feed I changed out the whole. Res in. Each bucket.

I did 2 buckets at roughly 900.today they rose to. Roughly 1100

I.did.the other two at 1000-1100 and today there at 1400-1500

Water temp 68 I think

But I appreciate what your saying. To properly help you need exact figures and proper pictures of each plant/roots and setup.

Tommorow i will get all that.

 

[PK1]

i can't help since we don't have current readings. Water parameters change allot and your tank is not stable so changes happen quickly

 

[PK1]

you need your plants around 800 ppm. That 1400 or 1100 is gonna kill the plant. knowing hydro tomorrow you'll be walking into a bigger surprise. This isn't soil for things to take one week

 

[Gdawwwg]

you need your plants around 800 ppm. That 1400 or 1100 is gonna kill the plant. knowing hydro tomorrow you'll be walking into a bigger surprise. This isn't soil for things to take one week

Yeh totally agree. Within a matter of days after being purchased they go like this. What would you think is most likely making it. Not stable.

I expect I will be getting 4 new clones and starting from. Scratch

If so I need to get everything right this time..

 

[PK1]

Yeh totally agree. Within a matter of days after being purchased they go like this. What would you think is most likely making it. Not stable.

I expect I will be getting 4 new clones and starting from. Scratch

If so I need to get everything right this time..

i wouldn't get any clones yet. Patience daniel sun, no point to spend more money to kill the plant aagain. lol!
not sure what the cause can be yet, but will get to it. You need to come online when you are with the plant so we can adjust things. temps, humidity and so on

 

[tobh]

i wouldn't get any clones yet. Patience daniel sun, no point to spend more money to kill the plant aagain. lol!
not sure what the cause can be yet, but will get to it. You need to come online when you are with the plant so we can adjust things. temps, humidity and so on

learning, young padawan.

reasons a res will fluctuate rapidly:

1) no alkaline buffering. adding pH down does not mean the pH is buffered. there must be adequate alkalinity for the acid to balance against, otherwise the acid will be ineffective
2) too high of EC. as a byproduct of the plant eating what it can, when it can, the pH will rise.
3) bacterial infection. good or bad bacteria will drive the solution to be more alkaline as a side effect of their digestion processes. when large culture growth occurs, pH spikes are prevalent.
4) media contributions. personally i hate hydroton. it's finicky and despite everything that says it's inert, it's not ime. plus, getting the shit absolutely clean so you don't end up with sediment in your res is impossible. fuck hydroton.
5) plant growth. this isn't your case, so disregard for now since your plants aren't even drinking right now, this is a non-issue.
6) incorrect nutrient solution mixing procedure. each additive must mix for at least five minutes before the next is added. if using silica, it goes first then mixes for at least 15 minutes. the longer the better. next is pH to 6.5 let mix for at least ten minutes until stable. Then, calmag, mix ten minutes. then proceed with the rest, five minutes between each part. final pH, mix for five to ten minutes, then h2o2 or hydroguard, whatever you're style. the res should be stable at the end of the process, and stable an hour after the process. if it's not, there's a fuck up somewhere in the process.
7) air pumps. the introduction of CO2 to the res by way of air pumps has been shown to increase the pH. roots need oxygen, not whatever gasses the air pumps are pushing into the solution.
8) water source. tap is typically alright, but hard water is a no-go, a lot of well water is also a no-go because of various treatments or bacterias present in the water source. RO is also finicky and must be buffered otherwise wild pH swings are inevitable.

It becomes a process of elimination identifying why you're seeing mass spikes in pH. with where @PK1 is going, you'll get to the root cause in no time. hold fast, and keep your wallet in your pocket for now.

 

[PK1]

learning, young padawan.

reasons a res will fluctuate rapidly:

1) no alkaline buffering. adding pH down does not mean the pH is buffered. there must be adequate alkalinity for the acid to balance against, otherwise the acid will be ineffective
2) too high of EC. as a byproduct of the plant eating what it can, when it can, the pH will rise.
3) bacterial infection. good or bad bacteria will drive the solution to be more alkaline as a side effect of their digestion processes. when large culture growth occurs, pH spikes are prevalent.
4) media contributions. personally i hate hydroton. it's finicky and despite everything that says it's inert, it's not ime. plus, getting the shit absolutely clean so you don't end up with sediment in your res is impossible. fuck hydroton.
5) plant growth. this isn't your case, so disregard for now since your plants aren't even drinking right now, this is a non-issue.
6) incorrect nutrient solution mixing procedure. each additive must mix for at least five minutes before the next is added. if using silica, it goes first then mixes for at least 15 minutes. the longer the better. next is pH to 6.5 let mix for at least ten minutes until stable. Then, calmag, mix ten minutes. then proceed with the rest, five minutes between each part. final pH, mix for five to ten minutes, then h2o2 or hydroguard, whatever you're style. the res should be stable at the end of the process, and stable an hour after the process. if it's not, there's a fuck up somewhere in the process.
7) air pumps. the introduction of CO2 to the res by way of air pumps has been shown to increase the pH. roots need oxygen, not whatever gasses the air pumps are pushing into the solution.
8) water source. tap is typically alright, but hard water is a no-go, a lot of well water is also a no-go because of various treatments or bacterias present in the water source. RO is also finicky and must be buffered otherwise wild pH swings are inevitable.

It becomes a process of elimination identifying why you're seeing mass spikes in pH. with where @PK1 is going, you'll get to the root cause in no time. hold fast, and keep your wallet in your pocket for now.

lol, you just put the bible in front of him

 

[Gdawwwg]

you need your plants around 800 ppm. That 1400 or 1100 is gonna kill the plant. knowing hydro tomorrow you'll be walking into a bigger surprise. This isn't soil for things to take one week

Room. Temp 77f
Rh 66%
Ph between. 5.5 5.8

 

[Gdawwwg]

Il do ec readings for each plant now

 

[Gdawwwg]

Front right plant. I just changed the res.ppm.to.880.

Poured a lil 5.5 ph over the top. And now it's reading 1800

Lil.bits floating in there. Soil I think

 

[Gdawwwg]

All the ec readings are through the roof. All I did was top feed with plain. Ph.d water

 

[PK1]

Front right plant. I just changed the res.ppm.to.880.

Poured a lil 5.5 ph over the top. And now it's reading 1800

Lil.bits floating in there. Soil I think

what is soil doing in there? are these transplanted from soil to hydro?
bring room temp closer to 80/81f

are you with the plants still?

 

[detroitjoe]

Grow in soil as a new grower. I think you get a better understanding as a new grower by growing in soil because it’s more forgiving. You learn proper watering cycles, wet/dry cycles, excess/deficiencies. How to properly water until run off to prevent buildup and lockout. So much to learn. Can’t help here as I’ve never grown dwc. Good luck and happy grows.
Burnz

thats like telling an auto mechanic to go work at a bicycle shop

 

[PK1]

thats like telling an auto mechanic to go work at a bicycle shop

wrong! new mechanics don't just start working at Mercedes. They start working on a Honda civic and the guy at the bicycle shop probably has to start mapping the floor before he can touch a bike or work the counter. So, BurnzYzBudZz is right and soil is more forgiving and fun. I would suggest it too to any new grower who hasn't gone at least through few grows.

 

[tobh]

thats like telling an auto mechanic to go work at a bicycle shop

lol not sure what that has to do with the price of tea in china.

wrong! new mechanics don't just start working at Mercedes. They start working on a Honda civic and the guy at the bicycle shop probably has to start mapping the floor before he can touch a bike or work the counter. So, BurnzYzBudZz is right and soil is more forgiving and fun. I would suggest it too to any new grower who hasn't gone at least through few grows.

i'll argue with all y'all about this. soil is unforgiving, slow, and allows new growers to kill their plants through their overmothering tendencies. i'd say anything soilless is a much better option because it offers all the benefits of learning proper watering practices, wet/dry cycles, deficiencies and lockouts, plus pH. it'll also forgive them for trying to drown their shit and allow them to play fuck around a lot more. DWC is a stretch for new growers though, too many things can go sideways too fast. coco or promix are where it's at though, at least for a new grower.

 

[PK1]

lol not sure what that has to do with the price of tea in china.

i'll argue with all y'all about this. soil is unforgiving, slow, and allows new growers to kill their plants through their overmothering tendencies. i'd say anything soilless is a much better option because it offers all the benefits of learning proper watering practices, wet/dry cycles, deficiencies and lockouts, plus pH. it'll also forgive them for trying to drown their shit and allow them to play fuck around a lot more. DWC is a stretch for new growers though, too many things can go sideways too fast. coco or promix are where it's at though, at least for a new grower.

isn't promix soil again? lol
Coco, sure if they have a tenancy of constant watering, but i think majority of growers know when to water but not how to water. See they drown it because of the amount of volume not how often they give water. Drooping a litter of water on a seedling without breaks is obviously going to fukt shit up.

 

[tobh]

isn't promix soil again? lol
Coco, sure if they have a tenancy of constant watering, but i think majority of growers know when to water but not how to water. See they drown it because of the amount of volume not how often they give water. Drooping a litter of water on a seedling without breaks is obviously going to fukt shit up.

eh, promix is a base for soil but it's not soil. it's still inert if used by itself. it also tolerates treatment similar to coco without being so damn hungry for mag.

i still feel that soilless is best because you completely eliminate the prospect of overwatering because of too much volume or poor watering practices. sure, you can still fuck it up, but it's a hell of a lot harder to fuck up in soilless with your watering practices (like, just not watering at all) than it is to fuck up in soil where if you dump a liter in a solo cup then do it again the next day, you're gonna drown tf out of a seedling.