If the goal is airflow through the plant then it seems taking a selective approach is the happy medium.
you've built a very similar system to what i've been architecting for the better part of a year. I'd have done a few things differently, but your setup is obviously working quite well. One of the primary factors that's so appealing to UC is the simple fact that you can cut down nutrient concentrations by nearly 100% of what the feed schedules recommend, and still take advantage of insanely explosive growth rates. One of the metrics for production volume that I've found to be most accurate is not grams per watt, but gpw over time. So, if grower A is able to produce 2gpw in six months, but grower B is able to produce 2gpw in three, which is functioning more economically? Grower B, obviously. RDWC provides many of the advantages of SOG without the high plant count simply by optimizing most of the additional factors.
You can still veg for two weeks and flip to flower.
You can still run lower nutrient levels.
You still end up with equal weight.
You just aren't running a high density of plants in the same space.
AND you're likely saving a ton of money/time/effort AND reducing risk overall.
I don't know how this thread escaped me earlier on, been a busy couple months. Signed up now. @Aqua Man has you on this, just wish he'd get to a point that he could get his system running again. This is his element, 100%.
If you want to see a serious bout of defoliation, check out this thread by @Dirtbag. Seriously aggressive stuff, but the proof is in the pudding.
As far as changes to the build. The long run of PVC connecting the 2 pairs of sites needs to be a tad wider. I made a mistake not factoring in the right sizing for the fittings in the center so the sites have kind of a bowed out look. I have no doubt that caused problems when filling the system indoors, but obsessively tightening the bulkheads over time while filling it to make sure they were tight they havent leaked since the system was initially filled.you've built a very similar system to what i've been architecting for the better part of a year. I'd have done a few things differently, but your setup is obviously working quite well. One of the primary factors that's so appealing to UC is the simple fact that you can cut down nutrient concentrations by nearly 100% of what the feed schedules recommend, and still take advantage of insanely explosive growth rates. One of the metrics for production volume that I've found to be most accurate is not grams per watt, but gpw over time. So, if grower A is able to produce 2gpw in six months, but grower B is able to produce 2gpw in three, which is functioning more economically? Grower B, obviously. RDWC provides many of the advantages of SOG without the high plant count simply by optimizing most of the additional factors.
You can still veg for two weeks and flip to flower.
You can still run lower nutrient levels.
You still end up with equal weight.
You just aren't running a high density of plants in the same space.
AND you're likely saving a ton of money/time/effort AND reducing risk overall.
I don't know how this thread escaped me earlier on, been a busy couple months. Signed up now. @Aqua Man has you on this, just wish he'd get to a point that he could get his system running again. This is his element, 100%.
If you want to see a serious bout of defoliation, check out this thread by @Dirtbag. Seriously aggressive stuff, but the proof is in the pudding.
Right after this grow is done. Don't play with the environment at this stage. Do that between grows.Also considering long term just bailing on the tent and expanding to 6 sites anyway. With the build as is it would be as easy as cutting my long run of pvc, tossing a hub in there, 2 more containers. It would only take an hour and probably less than 50 dollars to expand to 6 and increase system volume by only 15-20 gallons. With the already low nutrient cost thats nothing, plus 2 480w lights providing well enough coverage.
The air stones are to oxygenate the water and prevent root rot.
It's only needed if your levels are too low. watch roots for that info. Any discoloration or patchiness, add air.Yea just reading through the forums here and elsewhere there have been some good examples of water agitation via waterfall creating sufficient oxygenation without the stones. I use hydroguard to help with root rot etc. I dont have a chiller so sometimes the ambient room temp might spike the water as high as 71/72.
Yea I did check them earlier out of curiosity, they arent pearly pearly white but more of a slight off white. Not any of that brown looking shit I have seen in some of the threads when something goes wrong. I've been kind of trusting the system and letting things run without checking the root masses a lot.It's only needed if your levels are too low. watch roots for that info. Any discoloration or patchiness, add air.
Check them once a week. That should be enough. More if you think they may be showing signs. They should be more of a cream color.Yea I did check them earlier out of curiosity, they arent pearly pearly white but more of a slight off white. Not any of that brown looking shit I have seen in some of the threads when something goes wrong. I've been kind of trusting the system and letting things run without checking the root masses a lot.
Yea I will have a peek tomorrow and throw up a pic. Gets tricky these days with the tying down and trellis haha.Check them once a week. That should be enough. More if you think they may be showing signs. They should be more of a cream color.
Sexy root mass for you bb. She looks good better than I thought.Don't be hard on yourself. I've had grows where everything goes wrong from day 1. It happens. Just know that and you will always be ready for it.
I just put electrical tape over any that are not green.@Aqua Man I know the flowering tent is supposed to not have any light leaks but what about small status lights on devices in the tent? Like a red switch on a power strip or tiny dull led status light on a fan?
Alrighty, was taking a look at the setup at lights out the other night and noticed some, did cover them but obv duct tape is a bit too translucent, it doesnt contain it well enough to block completely. The tents still super dark but was curious as to how impactful.I just put electrical tape over any that are not green.
I just dont risk it. It's probably OK but probably can lead to disappointmentAlrighty, was taking a look at the setup at lights out the other night and noticed some, did cover them but obv duct tape is a bit too translucent, it doesnt contain it well enough to block completely. The tents still super dark but was curious as to how impactful.
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